It’s hard to imagine people a few decades ago accusing each other of ‘gatekeeping’ where they got their jacket from. 

But if your daily scroll is punctuated by comments sections seeking hallowed brands or you’ve found yourself fawning over the latest viral dress from a designer you definitely can’t justify purchasing from, you’re not alone. 

Somewhere along the way fashion became swallowed up by a desire to see or be seen in a certain label, and it’s changed the way we think about style. 

Once upon a time, labels essentially meant luxury. They were largely and purposely unattainable, reserved for glossy magazines, couture catwalk looks and the mega wealthy. As for the more affordable labels, they were more likely to be seen tucked behind your neck or hugging an in-seam than taking up precious garment retail space. 

Then, in the 90s brands pivoted to making themselves boldly prominent. French Connection’s iconic ‘fcuk’ rebrand made them audacious and edgy, courting controversy and column inches backed by a full-throttle advertising campaign. In the UK, the Advertising Standards Authority took umbrage at the splashing around of fcuk posters, while over in America it ruffled the feathers of Christian fundamentalist groups.

Equally, velour tracksuit trailblazers Juicy Couture conceived their whole identity and brand around ‘the label’. By the early noughties, everyone from Madonna to Paris Hilton was sporting the instantly recognisable tracksuits – and Britney Spears even had her bridal party change into them during her 2004 wedding to Kevin Federline.

Fast forward to today and the idea of bold advertising and celebrity culture has led to the latest transmitter of label mania: influencers. The vast majority of us are chronically online and brands have found a new platform thanks to those with large social followings. 

You only have to open Instagram and you’re met with sponsored OOTD posts, less-than-transparent endorsements and ‘try on haul’ videos from buzzy labels. And once the look du jour has been posted on the grid, it’s time to move on to the next urgently on-trend item.

Fashion content creator and body-confidence advocate Sophie Hughes understands this cycle well. “When I was younger, I needed a new dress for every single occasion,” she recalls. “I needed the latest labels and I needed to constantly feel on-trend.”

But realising that many brands don’t design for curvier bodies helped her redefine her relationship with style.

“You don’t have to follow every trend,” she advises. “Finding what works for you and building a staple wardrobe with pieces you love to wear is the key to breaking what I consider to be a vicious cycle,” she explains. 

“Now I am all about timeless classics. I’ve worn my favourite LBD 30 times with zero shame and I opt to mix up the accessories rather than always breaking the bank.”

So, what is it that drives the ‘it-brand’ seduction? According to fashion editor and trend expert Karine Laudort, it speaks to our desire to align with the aesthetics, identities and status a brand can bring. 

“Wearing certain labels or ‘it-brands’ signals that you belong to a particular group, often aligned with an image of affluence, trend-consciousness or exclusivity,” she explains. “This social signalling is powerful because it implies a kind of ‘in-group’ membership. People often perceive branded clothing as speaking an implicit language, immediately placing the wearer within a certain social status or lifestyle bracket.”

However, Laudort warns that this allure can undermine individuality and lead to emotional and financial stress. “Constantly comparing yourself to branded personas erodes authenticity in personal style, as people become more brand-loyal than self-loyal,” she says. 

“Label mania creates a cycle where the thrill of owning a trendy brand quickly fades, pushing consumers to chase the next big thing. Psychologically, this cycle is exhausting and fosters a perpetual sense of inadequacy. Financially, it leads to frequent purchasing, draining resources that could otherwise support long-term goals.”

Breaking up with label mania doesn’t mean ditching brands completely and unfollowing all your favourite fashion accounts. Rather, it’s about re-evaluating the ‘why’ behind your purchases and making more conscious choices that can benefit your sense of self, your wallet and, ultimately, the planet. 

Opting for staple, trend-defying pieces you’ll wear time and again is the route out of unsavoury fashion habits. 

Hughes emphasises the importance of self-reflection. “Ask yourself, ‘Do I truly love this item or am I just buying it to keep up appearances?’ For me, if I’m not going to lose sleep over not purchasing it, then it doesn’t belong in my cart.”

Laudort agrees, advocating a shift towards a more personal and sustainable approach to fashion. “Embracing versatile pieces and high-quality basics offers more freedom and originality,” she says. 

“Investing in timeless, well-crafted items that aren’t tied to specific brands lets you create your own statements. By taking small steps like these, people can gradually move away from label-centric fashion choices and build a thoughtful, personal wardrobe that empowers both their individuality and their financial well-being.”

Tu is on a mission to help you lose those labels and embrace your unique personal style with quality wardrobe heroes that work every time. Find out more at tuclothing.sainsburys.co.uk.