Mark says: “Having found my tarte often stuck, I’ve developed a few rules from which I never waver: the pan must be non-stick (mostly, I use a Netherton Prospector pan or a shallow Le Creuset); I don’t let much time pass between hob and oven; and I turn the tarte out before it cools too much. I have to tell you, I’m happy with bought puff pastry. I almost always make this with only star anise as it complements rather than sings over the top of the quince; if you are making this with just apples, allow me to steer you towards cinnamon berries, verbena berries and Ethiopian passion berries – or a combination of – as well as the more familiar flavours of cinnamon or cardamom.”

Serves 4–6

Ingredients

• 150g caster sugar
• 2 whole star anise, ground
• 80g salted butter
• 4 apples, peeled, cored and quartered
• 2 quince, peeled, cored and quartered
• 250g all-butter puff pastry

Method

Preheat the oven to 160°C/320°F/gas mark 3. 

Put a 20cm (8in) shallow, non-stick, ovenproof pan on the hob over a medium heat, and add the sugar, star anise and 60g (2¼oz) of the butter to it, stirring to blend thoroughly as they melt. Up the heat a little, stir occasionally, and allow the buttery sugar to turn to a brown caramel. 

Warm the remaining butter in a separate pan over a low heat. Arrange the apple and quince pieces around the edge of the pan of caramel, then in an inner circle. Cook for a couple of minutes, then brush with the melted butter. Remove from the heat. 

Cut a circle from the pastry that is 2cm (¾in) or so larger than the pan’s diameter. Place it on top of the fruit and tuck in the edges down the inside of the pan. Use a sharp knife cut a couple of little slits in the top to allow steam to escape. 

Place in the oven and cook for 25–30 minutes: the pastry should be golden and crisp. 

Allow to cool for 5 minutes, before placing a plate over the pan, and (using oven gloves) inverting the whole in one swift movement. Carefully remove the pan. Use a spoon to move any stubborn bits of fruit or caramel from the pan to the tarte. Serve with sour cream or yoghurt. 

Mark says: “This may sound like a peculiar combination, but blueberries and coriander share a flavour compound, and the coriander just sparks the blueberries’ intensity perfectly. There are three critical things to clafoutis: a light touch when whisking the batter, a blisteringly hot oven and don’t grind the coriander too fine – it’s best as chewy intense nuggets. This is also excellent cold for breakfast.” 

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 70g plain flour, plus a little extra for dusting
• ½ tsp salt
• 330ml whole milk
• 2 tsp vanilla extract
• 2 eggs
• 40g caster sugar
• 200g blueberries
• 2 tsp coriander seeds, coarsely ground
• 15g unsalted butter, chilled and cut into small pieces, plus a little extra for greasing
• 1 tbsp icing sugar, for dusting
• 1 tsp cocoa powder, for dusting (optional)

Method

Preheat the oven to 220°C/430°F/gas mark 7. 

Butter a gratin or baking dish (about 28 x 20cm/11 x 8in) and dust it lightly with flour. 

Sift the flour and salt into a bowl and whisk in half the milk and vanilla until smooth. Add the eggs one at a time, whisking briefly after each addition. Whisk in the sugar and remaining milk. 

Scatter the blueberries into the dish, add half of the coriander, pour over the batter and dot with the butter. 

Place the dish on a baking sheet and bake until puffed up and golden, about 25 minutes. Remove from the oven, leave to cool slightly and dust with icing sugar, the remaining coriander and the cocoa (if using) just before serving. 

Mark says: “What an advert for Anglo-Turkish harmony, with the classic northern England Eccles cake getting a generous spicing with baharat. The aromatic, earthy spiciness of the blend works so well with sweet/sharp blackcurrants, and it’s a combination you can improvise around: sweet garam masala, or a blend of ground allspice and fennel, in place of the baharat; blueberries instead of the blackcurrants. I find this easiest to make with frozen currants (no need to defrost before cooking) as they are so much easier to top and tail with the scrape of a thumbnail.”

Makes 6

Ingredients

• 20g unsalted butter
• 50g soft light brown sugar, plus a little extra for sprinkling
• 1 tsp baharat (page below)
• 80g blackcurrants
• 1 sheet of ready-rolled puff pastry
• 2 egg whites, lightly beaten
• yoghurt or cream, to serve

For the baharat:

• 2 tbsp cumin seeds
• 2 tbsp black peppercorns
• 1 tbsp coriander seeds
• 2 allspice berries
• 6 cloves
• 5cm (2in) cassia, or cinnamon stick
• 6 green cardamom pods, seeds only (optional)
• 1 crushed dried lime (optional)
• 2 tbsp unsmoked paprika
• a really generous scratching of nutmeg

Method

Make the baharat. Add all but the paprika and nutmeg to a pan and toast over a low heat until the scent rises. Whizz to a powder in a spice grinder or mortar and pestle, then add the paprika and nutmeg.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/gas mark 4. 

Melt the butter in a small pan, remove from the heat and combine with the sugar and baharat. Stir in the blackcurrants. 

Cut six 12cm (5in) circles in the pastry and spoon a little of the filling into the centre of each: you’ll be surprised how little is enough. 

Pull up one side over to the other, covering the filling, and pinch together into a semicircle to seal. Repeat with all the circles. Brush with egg white and sprinkle with a little sugar. Use a sharp knife to make three short slashes in the top of each, then transfer to a baking sheet.

Bake for 15–18 minutes until golden brown. Serve with yoghurt or whichever cream takes your fancy. 

Spice by Mark Diacono (£25, Quadrille) is out now