It doesn’t have the romance of Paris, the historical architecture of London or the electricity of NYC, but Toronto is a city that has my whole heart. It’s the place my grandmother called home for the first nine years of her life – now one of the few remaining fragments of a memory moth-eaten by dementia – and it’s the city that I, too, called home from 2018-2020, right before the pandemic upturned everyone’s lives. Toronto, for me, is ice cream-turned-to-soup because you spend more time yapping than eating. It’s sweaty high-fives after Saturday morning warehouse workouts and eggs with a side of maple syrup-soaked pancakes. It’s all-weather beach walks, backyard fires and basketball-watching parties. It’s warmth – even when snow settles as high as your kneecaps.

Sentimental ties to one side, Toronto is renowned for its rich art and culture, its contribution to the entertainment industry (the Toronto International Film Festival (TIFF) is one of the largest and most prestigious film festivals in the world) and superb, ever-expanding food scene. It’s also the birthplace of Stylist’s September fashion issue cover star, the wonderful Catherine O’Hara.

Despite the dramatic climate, which oscillates between scorching hot summers and bitter-to-the-bone winters, there’s a big emphasis on outdoor living. When it’s warm, locals spend their spare time paddleboarding on Lake Ontario, and when the city freezes over, you’ll find families skating on the many outdoor rinks. But you’ll probably find spring and autumn (which is famously beautiful in Ontario) the most comfortable seasons for exploring.

Currently, there’s a lot of construction happening within the city, causing traffic build-up and longer journeys when travelling by car or streetcar, so if you can make use of alternative public transport or the extensive network of bike paths and trails, that’s what I’d recommend. If you have access to a car and can extend your trip by a couple of days, there are many reasonably quick and fun road trips you can take from the city, whether you like to hike or sample local wines. 

A heads-up that accommodation in the city isn’t cheap – even a chain hotel stay in the depths of winter will set you back upwards of £130 a night. Planning ahead, if you’re able to, will help you secure the best rates at the most sought-after spots.

If you’re prepared to splurge, a stay at Bisha is the ultimate treat when visiting Toronto. Located in the heart of the entertainment district, it’s a boutique hotel with some of the city’s best dining and shopping right on its doorstep. Rooms are smartly decorated with 70s-style monochromatic patterned carpets and gallery walls – a nod to Toronto’s impressive art scene.

If your stay falls during toastier weather, there’s a rooftop infinity pool in which to relax after pounding the pavements and soaking in the sights, and there’s on-site dining, too.

Elsewhere, The Drake Hotel is a hotspot considered to be one of the trendiest hotels in Toronto, while the Ace Hotel, with its contemporary, Scandinavian-esque interiors and bustling events itinerary, is a firm favourite too.

The Broadview Hotel, located in the east end of the city, is a 58-room spot with a colourful past and excellent decor, and it’s a little less expensive.

In nearly two years of living in Toronto, I don’t think I ever ate a mediocre meal out. The city has all kinds of cuisine, and there’s great grub on every corner. I do, however, have favourites. I cannot return to Toronto without eating brunch at Maha’s, a family-run restaurant in the east end serving the most incredible traditional Egyptian dishes (everything on the menu is delicious, but I routinely return to the falafel). Another must-visit is Tabule, a dinner spot serving Middle Eastern food that’s perfect for catch-ups over cocktails and shared plates. My friend and I usually split the hallum salad (add the falafel!), the eggplant and a sampler platter of dips, and I’ll wash it down with a jallab Marrakech drink.

A hidden gem, and favourite among locals, is Italian restaurant Gio Rana’s Really Really Nice (also known as ‘the nose’, on account of the huge nose sculpture suspended above the door), where service is excellent and the hearty food even better.

If it’s a treat you’re after, Mimi Chinese is expensive but exceptional, and Akira Back, part of the Bisha Hotel, serves mouthwatering and award-winning Japanese cuisine. Daphne has an interior you’ll want to Instagram (not to mention sensational meals) and Bar Raval has a tapas menu that’s raved about city-wide. Other eateries worth mentioning are Rasa, Pizzeria Badiali (a recommendation from a local friend who said, and I quote, it’s “hands down the best pizza”) and Bar Isabel.

Finally, you can’t visit the city without sampling the ice cream – regardless of the season, in my opinion. The best scoops I’ve eaten were from Bang Bang Ice Cream and Bakery (salivating just thinking about the cinnamon toast and totaro flavours), and Ed’s (order the burnt marshmallow).

Hear me out: city breaks are fun, but it’s not uncommon to return home feeling like you need a second getaway to recover after jam-packed itineraries and hours spent on your feet. Perhaps scheduling a spa day during your trip is a solution?

Aman Spa is an aesthetic and luxury wellness centre offering a variety of massage treatments, from lymphatic drainage to deep tissue and facials. Elsewhere, Etiket, a boutique retail and spa space, is the place to go for a quick breather in between exploring the city. Settle down for a facial, then stock up on your favourite skincare products.

For something a little more heavy-duty, Formula Fig specialises in ‘high-tech’ facials using innovative machines (to target specific skin concerns) and injectables.

If gossiping over a glass of wine is your idea of a good time, there are plenty of brilliant bars across the city. The Broadview Hotel has an indoor-outdoor rooftop bar with a gorgeous view of the skyline, though it gets quite loud at night. Civil Libertines was named the best bar in Canada 2023 by The World’s 50 Best. Mother, Cry Baby Gallery and Le Tigre should also be on your radar if cocktails are your thing.

There are tons of breweries to explore if you’re partial to a pint, but Amsterdam Brewhouse sits right on the harbourfront and you get a great view of the islands. If you fancy something a little kooky, The Vatican Gift Shop is a riot: a dimly-lit bar hidden behind a tiny store appearing to sell religious trinkets and accessories, where there’s live music, space to dance and great pizza for when you start feeling snacky.

Waterworks is a gourmet food hall that opened just this summer and has generated a lot of excitement across the city. Sample food and drinks from the many vendors while nattering with friends and mapping out your exploration plans for the following day.

Sport, I’d say, is part of the fabric of Toronto and, depending on the time of year, you should have ample opportunity to cheer on a local team. Given the choice, I’d be in the stands supporting the Maple Leafs (ice hockey) or the Raptors (basketball), but a Blue Jays baseball game is a fun way to spend a chilled, sunny afternoon.

You’ll find many of Toronto’s best independent boutiques on Queen West, so I recommend allotting some time to pottering around this area of the city, browsing locally made and unique products in between coffee (or beer) stops. Elsewhere, Kensington Market is a vibrant and charismatic neighbourhood with yet more independents and many great food options for fuelling your spree. The Distillery District admittedly doesn’t have a huge amount going on in terms of shopping opportunities, bar a few gems, but it’s charming and photogenic. Don’t miss Soma, which makes the best chocolate – ideal for gifts – and you have to try the Maya spicy hot chocolate, which is out of this world.

If it’s a splurge you have in mind, Holt Renfrew is a high-end department store with a flagship in Downtown, ideal for your designer buys, while Aritzia, a high street brand that has a bit of an & Other Stories vibe about it, is worth a snoop if you’re looking to refresh your wardrobe.

Other not-to-be-missed shopping ops include Aniin, an Indigenous-owned department store stocking apparel, accessories and everything in between; Saje for natural skincare and wellness products; and Glad Day Bookshop, the oldest queer bookstore in the world, serving the Toronto community since 1970.

From Downtown Toronto, Niagara Falls is less than a two-hour drive – and worth it for a chance to view the remarkable waterfall in motion first-hand. It’s mostly surrounded by chain restaurants and hotels, so if you really want to make a day of it, I recommend leaving the city for lunch. Lake House Restaurant, on the return drive to Toronto, has beautiful views and an excellent menu. While you’re in the area, if you’re partial to a glass of wine, you should check out the many vineyards in Wine Country. The area is home to more than 50 wineries, some simple and small, others fancier, and most offer walk-in tastings.

Back in Toronto, take a quick ferry to the islands for an afternoon of water-based activities, like stand-up paddleboarding and soaking in the city skyline from a different vantage point. Grab a snack – and a homemade ice lolly – from The Island Cafe on Ward’s Island. And, if museums are your thing, swing by the Museum of Contemporary Art or the Bata Shoe Museum. The CN Tower is popular, if a little touristy, and worth a visit for the view. 

Play Airlines offers a cost-effective way to fly to Toronto from London. Departing from Stansted and landing at John C Munro airport in Hamilton (an hour’s drive from Downtown Toronto), with a stopover in Reykjavik, return flights start at £294 and couldn’t be easier. Prices are inclusive of taxes with flights bookable online. 

For more information on visiting Toronto: destinationtoronto.com

Photos: Brandon Barre; Daniel Neuhaus; Getty; Play Airlines