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Travel
How to surf, ski and city break all in one week in California this winter
Updated 13 months ago
6 min read
While fitting so much into a single week might sound impractical, you really can do it all in the Golden State this winter.
There’s no denying that an American road trip screams bucket list. While navigating subtropical beaches, rugged rocky mountains and glossy Tetris-like cities sounds logistically nightmarish, there’s one US state that can offer surf, ski and a city break fix all in one fell swoop.
Sun: where to stay, what to do and where to eat in LA
If you’re anything like me and have grown up longing to live out the lyrics to Nickelback’s Rockstar, I’m now qualified to offer instructions. Arriving on Hollywood Boulevard along the iconic W 3rd St, I checked into Palihouse West Hollywood, part of the dreamy Pali Society collection.
Parting my bedroom’s mahogany shutters overlooking the Hollywood sign was a thoughtful touch. Even more MTV Cribs-esque was having a raidable in-room Smeg fridge and Diptyque-laden rainforest shower to wash away the staleness of my long-haul flight. Sipping unlimited drip coffee in the hotel cafe proved the quintessential hangout away from the Sunset Strip, as I chewed over the LA itinerary and pondered the best time to visit the courtyard pool.
Hiking’s a part of LA culture, so trekking to the Hollywood sign was a non-negotiable and a reason to see it from a different angle to the view from my bed (did I mention that already?). I didn’t initially pin this landmark as ‘tourable’, but Erik from Bikes & Hikes LA proved how Wonder View Drive got its name, and just how wrong I was. Bagging a compulsory Instagram photo-op (guilty) and a peek into the resident lots that oversee incredible views of the Hollywood Hills and Downtown LA, gave me bragging rights for days, along with a bank of good LA gossip. Thanks, Erik.
Credit: Flora Devenport
With only 48 hours to play in LA, deciding to see the entirety of the city in a chartered Maverick Helicopter seemed an ideal solution. Possibly the bougiest way I could get my bearings, this 30-minute flight took me over LA’s must-see landmarks, including the Dodger Stadium, the Playboy Mansion, UCLA, Santa Monica Pier and the Getty Centre, to name a few. Not too shabby.
Palihouse sits among some of the best eateries and bars in town; I’d do anything for another bite of a.o.c.’s zesty romesco fried chicken. Lassoed by a tarty Jolene cocktail from Desert 5 Spot proved tastier, with a side of its renowned cowboy karaoke. Ending the night at Bar Lis’s rooftop was like living through LA’s cultural renaissance in the 70s – expect glamorous people-watching, hovering champagne buckets and live jazz overlooking the city’s lights.
Credit: Flora Devenport
Ski: where to stay, what to do and where to eat in Mammoth
California and road-tripping are synonymous. But when an In-N-Out burger is involved, you can practically call yourself a local. Only talk to me if you are ordering your fries animal-style, though.
A very doable five-hour drive from Hollywood was made easier by gazing at California’s diverse scenery. Watching the transition as the flat ridges of the dusty Red Rock Canyon met the densely tree-lined Sequoia National Park and then the white peaks of Mammoth Mountain was a sight to behold.
I checked in at the Westin Monache Hotel, where my rented skis waited for me courtesy of its Black Tie valet drop-off service. As if I didn’t have everything laid out for me already, my snug bedroom had hot chocolate and a lit fireplace on entering. A Theragun also came in handy for those stiff travelling muscles and inevitable ski-related aches. I warmed my hands and eased into the snowscape quicker than it took to remember I was among palm trees just hours before.
Credit: Flora Devenport
Californian snow is unrivalled: the powder on Mammoth is so creamy that you glide down the mountain like a pro. Skiing on many of their bluebird days, you overlook the entire resort and surrounding lakes’ postcard-worthy backdrops. One thing of note was the snowboarding culture: Mammoth welcomes riders to skiers at a 60:40 ratio, a figure that’s unheard of in Europe.
Jet lag also has its perks, as I woke promptly the next morning in time to watch the sun rise from the nearby Hilltop Hot Spring. Catching a 20-minute transit from the hotel, I trudged through snow to find this natural hot pool at the foot of Mammoth’s peaks, led by a stream of steam lifting from the earth’s natural break. Braving the cold was worth it for the buzz felt afterwards, as the nutrient-rich water gave an all-encompassing tranquil, circadian rhythm-boosting escape. A truly unforgettable experience.
If you’re jetting in for the weekend, catching a short flight from Hawthorne Airport takes you from piste to the beach in under two hours. Advanced Air’s no-faff semi-private transport took a 30-minute drive from the resort’s main gondola.
Credit: Flora Devenport
Surf: where to stay, what to do and where to eat in Huntington Beach
Swapping salopettes for swimwear, Huntington Beach is 8.5 miles of aviator-clad surfers’ paradise. Offloading my ski jacket at the Kimpton Shorebreak Hotel check-in, slipping straight into my Havaianas was done without hesitation. Seeing the ocean glistening from a balcony that overlooked Huntington pier never felt more like home.
Judging by the solid lycra-to-wetsuit ratio, Huntington Beach is an aggressively active place. I rented a Public bike from the hotel so I could venture along the boardwalk, soaking in the beach volleyball courts scattered on one side and dodging the daisy-duke-wearing rollerbladers in situ. Harmonica players dotted the promenade providing an idyllic backing track while classic cars cruised along the Pacific Coast Highway. Gulls calling, distant nattering and BBQs sizzling – all moments that confirmed California really is like it is in movies.
With a climate facilitating an endless summer, there’s no better place to catch waves than the Surf City of the USA. It would be unjust to say my surfing career took off without significant aid from California’s longboarding legend and ‘waterman’ Rocky McKinnon. I did actually manage to stand up, though it’s impossible to say if this wasn’t incentivised by a seafood lunch at Duke’s post-surf.
You’d think by this point there would be nothing left to see. You’d be wrong. The trip concluded by hopping aboard a Sunset Wine Charter: nothing beats a crisp Californian chardonnay aboard a classic teak cruiser, especially when you can have a nose at the splendid houses that dot Huntington Harbour. Blankets were provided for when the sun set, and better yet, I still made it back in time for fireside s’mores at the hotel.
Credit: Flora Devenport
To get the most out of California’s winter season, I’d recommend a minimum of six nights to allow for ample doses of surfing, sunning or skiing. You’ll also want to check in a bag if you are a natural over-packer, and prepare for all climates.
From January to April, live your free-spirited life in California as you explore diverse activities across countless routes. Now’s the time to immerse yourself within the playground state.
Images: Flora Devenport
Where snow is near guaranteed, the sea is comfortably warm, and the sun always shines, California’s the epitome of the American dream. Many thanks to Visit California, who played host in proving why the state is dubbed the ‘ultimate winter playground’.
America As You Like It has a nine-night California City, Ski and Surf holiday from £2,385 for two people including return flights from Heathrow to Los Angeles on Virgin Atlantic, nine days fully inclusive car hire, three nights at the Palihouse West Hollywood, four nights at the Westin Monache Resort in Mammoth and two nights at the Kimpton Shorebreak Hotel in Huntington Beach. *Please note, this does not include ski/lift passes, and the resort fees at the Westin Monache and Shorebreak are also payable locally.
Just want to fly? Virgin Atlantic flies twice a day between London Heathrow and Los Angeles with return Economy fares starting from £421 per person.
For more information on California: Visit the website for travel inspiration, detailed visitor guides and meticulously mapped itineraries.
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