Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
7 min read
Mountainside wellness retreats are on the up, but what makes a good one? Stylist’s Susan Riley escaped to Sensoria Dolomites to try sense-hacking: the practice of fine-tuning your senses and cutting out the noise. Does it work?
If, like me, there are times when you feel like your brain is actually melting, then you’re going to find this review very useful.
Brain melting, aka life overwhelm, happens when our senses are completely bombarded and engulfed: by noise, by tech, by information and a myriad of other distractions. It’s a pesky byproduct of this always-on world we live in, and one that inevitably leads to stress, anxiety and an inability to focus and summon clarity of thought. In short, it needs thwarting.
Enter the saviour of sense-hacking, a concept coined by Oxford professor Charles Spence in his 2022 book Sensehacking: How To Use The Power Of Your Senses For Happier, Healthier Living. The term describes how we can optimise our sensory output to feel more productive or relaxed. We can enhance emotional regulation and reduce stress, so the theory goes, by tuning into sensory experiences – whether it’s the Calm app’s waterfall soundscape or spritzing a forest scent like Jo Malone’s Hinoki and Cedarwood.
Holidays are of course prime sense-hacking territory, because you get the chance to step away, recalibrate and quieten the noise. That’s why digital detox cabins like those from Unplugged are growing in demand; why more spas are enveloping themselves in leafy gardens and tranquil lakesides; and why high-end resorts like Lake Garda’s Cape of Senses are now launching retreats solely dedicated to harnessing the power of your senses, as opposed to being overwhelmed by them.
A retreat designed to calm the senses
The perfect place to put sense-hacking to the test? Sensoria Dolomites, a two-year-old Italian wellness retreat whose very name represents sensory restoration (Sensoria is defined as ‘the area of the brain considered responsible for receiving and integrating sensations from the outside world’). Indeed, Sensoria’s owners Lea and Simon have purposefully designed the retreat to calm each of the five senses – and I can tell you without hesitation that they’ve nailed it.
First off, Sensoria’s location helps massively with its mission. Twenty-eight kilometres from Italy’s Bolzano airport in the alpine village of Seis am Schlern, the hotel is located at the foot of the Alpe di Siusi – the largest high plateau in Europe. That’s 56 square kilometres of peaceful high alpine pasture and mountain views; a fantasy-land for hikers, bikers and skiers that gets over 300 days of sun a year. Look up and the Sciliar Massif mountain looms into view, the Seiser Alm cable car just five minutes’ walk away, from which you can make your 15-minute ascent into the clouds.
Thanks to Sensoria’s biophilic design, all this soul-soaring alpine scenery is brought straight inside thanks to an abundance of glass ‘fourth walls’ and an uncompromising use of wood. From the reading lounge (where we enjoy perfectly mixed basil smashes) to Sensoria’s 45 cosy chalet-esque bedrooms, raw materials dance with muted neutrals to create a Japandi aesthetic – the perfect mix of Scandi minimalism and Japanese tranquility. It’s incredibly calming to look at and sit amongst, meaning that even a few hours loafing around here is akin to restorative yoga.
Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
And loaf you should, because Sensoria’s wellness facilities are sensational. The bathhouse – made of untreated mountain spruce that lattices across the ceilings and walls as if you’ve suddenly been transported to Kyoto – was my absolute favourite place to be, thanks to its neat rows of relaxation beds and 32°C indoor-outdoor pool. I had a swim at every time of day, pre-breakfast, post-ski and just before dinner, when the pool lights glow emerald green as you swim out of the sliding glass screen and into the darkness. Be warned that it’s a very hard sanctuary to leave. You may shrivel.
The spa itself, with its tailored treatment programme to enrich all the senses, is a cave-like warren of relaxation rooms and saunas (take your pick from Finnish, organic with infrared light or steam). The event sauna with panoramic mountain views is the biggie though. Designed for groups, it’s where daily sauna infusions take place with Sensoria’s wellbeing guide. The theme of the one we attended was, admittedly, a curveball: Saturday Night Fever. I will never forget sitting with half-naked strangers as said guide, dressed as Tony Manero (wig included), threw herb-infused ice balls onto coals and wafted the scent towards us with a towel to the beat of the Bee Gees. Wonderfully scented, yes, surreal also.
Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
Hearty Tyrolean fare designed to slow down the pace
With sights, sounds and smells already accounted for (nose schooling is also offered here for those keen to take a fragrance journey through wine aromas), taste is also ticked off in a big way. Eating and drinking is treated as a full sensory experience that’s distinctly unhurried. Forget buffets – here they have an ‘indulgence market’, a revolving showcase of local produce that starts the day with homemade oats, jams and syrups laid out at breakfast, before segueing to a selection of sweet and savoury afternoon nibbles for anyone peckish post-hike.
Dinner, meanwhile, is a slow and sedate affair: a gourmet six-course menu entitled ‘pleasure experiences’. Carrot and ginger velouté with wholewheat croutons was one such pleasure. Ravioli carbonara with pork cheek and cherry tomato confit another. Monkfish with potato spaghetti spinach and mustard sauce, yet another. If you’ve room left, the dessert buffet is a visual feast, featuring tiny tiramisus flanked by miniature creme brulees and dinky passion fruit yoghurt cremes. Visually, everything is stunning. One night we were served a sorbet creation that ingeniously looked like an apple, while ‘waffles Sensoria’ arrived with a romantic dusting of icing sugar and a test tube of maple syrup served floating at a right angle.
What makes it even sweeter is that all this gastronomy is folded into Sensoria’s all-inclusive, adult-only offering, such is the desire to take all the stress out of guests’ decisions once they’ve arrived. Lea and Simon also throw in curated experiences – guided hikes, snowshoeing treks – as well as themed evenings and seasonal serves like chestnut roasting and mulled wine tastings. They have thought of everything. Twice last year they also hosted a sound healing retreat with Soundwave gongs. Larger and more vibrationally impactful than singing bowls, the gongs’ harmonious tones get in tune with your body’s natural rhythms and aid relaxation.
Credit: Sensoria Dolomites
Credit: Susan Riley
But the thing that helps us connect to our senses the most? Mother nature. And there is every opportunity to indulge in her thanks to the region’s expanse of ski slopes (181km), hiking trails (61km) and toboggan runs (11km). I visited in March and as a keen snowboarder, spent two days on the never-crowded piste. Day one was spent boarding the Sellaronda with my guide Patrick, who drove us to the village of Sëlva Val Gardena to start the famous 40km circuit that connects the four ski areas of Val Gardena, Alta Badia, Arabba-Marmolada and Val di Fassa (part of the 12 ski areas that form Dolomiti Superski, the world’s second-largest ski and snowboard resort). I was nervous about getting round but as long as you start before 10 and stop for regular refuelling, it’s very do-able for intermediate skiers (and there are lots of lifts en route to rest the legs). I absolutely loved it for both the sense of challenge and the breathtaking scenery.
Credit: Susan Riley
Day two was spent at a gentler pace, exploring the more family-friendly local slopes of Val Gardena and Seiser Alm, pausing only for dumplings and sauerkraut (slopeside fare is heavily influenced by Austria, so close is this region to the border) and a glass of sparkling at Como Alpina to toast our last run of the day. Then a sauna and swim to finish, naturally, because it’d be rude not to.
Did Sensoria make me come to my senses? Very much so – both inside and out. There’s nothing like majestic mountains to bring calm and tranquility. Layer on soothing Japandi interiors, forest sauna scents, a peaceful bathhouse and the artform of joyful, experiential eating, and you can’t help but tune into the things that matter.
Sensoria Dolomites From €198 per night per person on a double occupancy basis including all day inclusive package (approx. £170) www.sensoriadolomites.com They also offer seasonal packages.
Nearest Airport: Bolzano, 28km from Sensoria Dolomites OR Innsbruck, 109km from Sensoria Dolomites. Bolzano train station is 22km away
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