I often spend time thinking about where I was just a month ago when I was living la dolce vita in the gorgeous Italian countryside of Piedmont. 

I remember the short and smooth train journey from Genoa to the small town of Cremolino, gazing at the delightfully picturesque landscapes as I careered through the nourishing green hills lined with vineyards. 

Prior to arriving at the Nordelaia luxury farmhouse, I spent three days on the Cinque Terre coast in the small town of Monterosso, so I was already in the swing of the relaxed Italian lifestyle.

Less than 10 minutes by car from the station, it is difficult to miss the 800-year-old rosé coloured farmhouse as you climb the winding mountain roads and ascend to the immaculate estate on which Nordelaia sits. 

Dare I say it, Soho Farmhouse – eat your heart out. The interiors felt as though you were walking into a stunning Pinterest board filled with a balance between natural stones and bleached wood that had obviously been preserved and restored over hundreds of years. 

My first full day began lazily as I luxuriated in the four-poster bed of the Inverno (winter) room (all the rooms are named after the seasons) followed by a breakfast of fruits, granolas and eggs, followed by a gym session in the spa area.

A dip in the infinity pool, which looks out onto the 13th century castle of Cremolino, was the perfect way to unwind before indulging in all the food and drink the hotel had to offer. 

While dining at the bistro, I tried everything from smoked octopus carpaccio with bergamot yoghurt and peaches drizzled in chilli oil grown in the grounds to a roasted tomato risotto topped with roccaverano cheese fondue and lemon. 

To top it all off, my day was followed by a decadent and entirely relaxing lymphatic massage in the hotel’s spa – I was seriously living up to il dolce far niente.

Day two was busier. Another gym session was squeezed in before an 11am vineyard tour by Simone, who taught me everything there is to know about his “babies” – the vines, which are still young in the grounds of Nordelaia.

The rolling Piedmont hills get sun all day and you can still feel a slight breeze from the Ligurian coast, so the grapes are nourished with a perfect balance of elements. Simone is averse to using any commercial pesticides and ‘recycles’ the leaves after every harvest by letting them fall to the ground each autumn and act as natural compost. Simone then talked me through the flavour profiles and grape varieties in a tasting hosted in the lounge bar. Sparkling and rosé for breakfast was not a chore.

This was ideal fuel for a tour around the Bodrato Chocolate Factory in Alessandria, only a half-hour drive away through the Gavi province. I was shown the full process of chocolate production from bean to bar, followed by another immaculate tasting session. 

You’d never think the art of making chocolate can be so closely compared to the creation of wine. Origin of the bean, climate and age can honestly take your tastebuds around the globe square by square. I may have stocked up on pistachio cream, hazelnut bars and “las bombas” (cherry dark chocolate truffles drenched in grappa.) Luckily, Bodrato is stocked in Eataly, Liverpool Street, so I can replace my hoard when it runs low.

The final night at Nordelaia was very special. After a bath in the bedroom (yes, the bedroom), dousing myself in Comfort Zone products, I dressed up and headed to L’Orto, the on-site flagship fine dining restaurant. 

On what should have been a night off for the chef, Charles Pearce, he opened the dining room for a private evening unlike anything I’ve ever experienced: just one spotlight illuminated our table and the rest of the restaurant was silent, dark and empty. However, nothing about the experience was soulless or eerie. Eight, maybe 10 – I lost count in the end – neatly presented dishes were delivered with grace by a team of passionate experts, proud of the fledgling restaurant’s wares. 

The standout dish for me was the sturgeon, including courgette and black garlic beurre blanc, followed closely by the spaghettoni with anchovy dripping and barbecue pepper extract (from the garden, or should I say l’orto). 

Our final morning began with a swim in the rain. The weather can be variable, but there is something peaceful about swimming while it drizzles. I went in early September, which marks the start of the truffle season, although the scorching summer temperatures meant the season has been delayed this year and the ground was still dry. 

Prime truffle season should begin in late October and guests at Nordelaia have the option of truffle hunting, where you’ll be accompanied by a few hard-working pooches too. 

All in all, I left Nordelaia exceedingly relaxed, ready for the final stretch of my Italian trip to the coastal town of Santa Margherita for five days of sea breeze, afternoon naps and more excellent cuisine – and if you’re looking to explore a stunning Italian countryside, Piedmont is definitely a destination to add to your 2023 travel list.

To find out more visit Nordelaia’s website

Images: Riccardo Gasperoni and Alessandro Amodio