My holiday destinations don’t tend to include a lot of nature or wilderness. It’s not that I don’t like the great outdoors, I just don’t gravitate towards it and generally opt for a beach holiday or a city break with lots of culture and warmth. However, Newfoundland and Labrador looked so beautiful in pictures that I knew I wanted to check it out and see what this Canadian province had to offer – especially now there’s a WestJet flight direct from London to St John’s.

Newfoundland and Labrador is where the sun rises first. Where Vikings landed over 1,000 years ago. This place is home to the oldest European settlement and one of the oldest cities in North America, but it’s been a province of Canada for barely 65 years. A vast land with a relatively small population, Newfoundland and Labrador has some of the most beautiful landscapes you’ll see and the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. This is a destination full of rich history and natural wonders, including stunning coastlines, breaching whales, eagles and icebergs.

In Newfoundland, you can experience a solitary wilderness one day and immerse yourself in a vibrant culture the next. St John’s, the province’s capital, is a great combination of big-city luxury and traditional small-town charm. It is one of the oldest and most easterly cities in North America, and an ideal destination for a long weekend (it’s the closest North American city break to the UK with the flight coming in at around five and a half hours).

Day 1: arriving into St John’s

As we touched down in St John’s and drove to our hotel in the city, I could already see the beautiful landscapes of Newfoundland from our minivan. We checked into the DoubleTree by Hilton in St John’s, which is a 15-minute walk from downtown, George Street and the convention centre. Lining the path are local shops, restaurants and lots of live entertainment, and the hotel has a lovely on-site restaurant, Little Sparo, that offers scratch-made Italian cuisine and ocean views. My hotel room was warm, cosy and had a stunning view of the harbour and The Narrows that really set the tone for what the city and Newfoundland were all about.

After we freshened up, we headed out to become acquainted with St John’s for the afternoon. We strolled through Jelly Bean Row, which is made of the beautifully coloured houses that St John’s is known for and something the city is really proud of. The pictures of these streets don’t do the colours justice – they’re so bold and vibrant and make the city feel homely and welcoming. We also paid Signal Hill a visit, which is a national historic site in Canada and has one of the most recognisable skylines in the country. However, on the day we went up Signal Hill, the foggy clouds had set in so visibility wasn’t too great. But in the summertime, this site would be well worth a visit for the panoramic views of St John’s.

We strolled through the picturesque fishing village of Quidi Vidi (pronounced Kitty Vitty) and watched a seal have a fish-related standoff with the fishermen – it was likely waiting for the perfect opportunity to nab a fish or two. Then, it was time for a spot of dinner at The Vu. Set against the beauty of the harbour, The Vu is a sensory dining experience with an upbeat soundtrack welcoming you into the space and smells wafting in from the kitchen. I tried one of the local dishes on the menu, Jiggs dinner croquettes, and they were utterly delicious. Jiggs dinner is a traditional meal eaten by the people of Newfoundland, typically on Sundays. These croquettes had tender salt beef, savoury dressing, hearty veg and the signature Jiggs dinner flavour all packed into a single bite.

Day 2: setting off on the Irish Loop

The next part of our trip would see us spend two days on the Irish Loop for a taste of the rural experience. It was time to check out of the Hilton and pack our bags into the minivan for a road trip. Taking in the lower half of the Avalon Peninsula, the Irish Loop and Cape Shore routes bring you from St John’s to smaller fishing communities that settled here hundreds of years ago. Our first stop was the Cape Spear Lighthouse, another national historic site in Canada that boasts dramatic, gorgeous views of the ocean with seabirds swirling atop a craggy headland. This is Canada’s most easterly point and the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland and Labrador. The bitter winds are strong, so if you’re planning a visit in the autumn or winter months, bring lots of layers with you.

After an hour or so of driving, we stopped for lunch at Gahan House (which has since closed its doors). It began as a brewpub and has stayed true to its beginnings by having an in-house brew system, ensuring that the beer it serves customers is as fresh as possible. With a delicious menu, handcrafted ales and fresh East Coast oysters, we were spoiled for choice.

In the late afternoon, we finally arrived at our next destination: Cliff’s Edge retreat. The retreat is situated directly in front of an ecological reserve for seabirds, where you can spot puffins and humpback whales directly from your room. We each got to stay in our own self-contained cabins (complete with our own hot tubs) and they were beautiful. The back of the cabins are vast windows that let in so much light but also allow you to enjoy the ocean views. Before dinner, I sat on the sofa in my cabin with my book, looking out at the ocean at sunset and it was mesmerising.

This evening’s dinner spot was Arbour Restaurant & Lounge. This place puts a modern twist on authentic Newfoundland dining in an upscale, family-friendly atmosphere. You can enjoy and feast on traditional Newfoundland comfort food using fresh, local produce and seafood fished from the region’s rugged coastline.

Day 3: continuing on the Irish Loop

Waking up and getting out of bed is a lot easier when you’re surrounded by the beautiful landscapes of the Irish Loop. After a delicious breakfast of pancakes and fruit, we headed out for a bit of history. The Colony of Avalon is widely recognised as the best preserved English colonial site in North America, and with an admission ticket, you can access an active archaeological dig, the conservation lab and a guided tour of the 17th century kitchen and gardens.

Continuing the educational theme, we headed to Food Culture Place, a company, founded by Lori McCarthy, that aims to preserve Newfoundland and Labrador’s cultural heritage through immersive experiences and cultural residencies. McCarthy hosted us for the afternoon, and it was truly immersive. Sitting around a campfire, huddled together with blankets and mushroom tea, was a brilliant experience. McCarthy discussed the food culture of the local region, demonstrating the bounty of the ocean and landscape, all while treating us to dishes inspired by tradition and nature. We also hiked some of the East Coast Trail, which had even more stunning views of Newfoundland’s skyline and ocean. I’m not a huge hiker, but this trail is really well built and paved, so even novices like me can enjoy a relatively easy hike in the wilderness.

Then, it was time for more food. We were treated to dinner at Fork Restaurant, led by husband and wife duo Kyle Puddester and Kayla O’Brien. It’s a quaint, cosy and intimate dining spot and it’s regularly packed with diners. The seared scallops were amazing.

Day 4: heading back to St John’s

On our penultimate day in Newfoundland, we checked back into the DoubleTree by Hilton and properly explored St John’s. First on the agenda was The Rooms. This is the region’s largest public cultural space and home to its most extensive collection of artefacts and archival records. It’s a beautiful building and captures Newfoundland’s rich history and creative spirit. There’s also a restaurant at the top of the building that has brilliant views of the harbour and tasty food. The rest of the day was ours and we could do our own thing. I decided to do a little shopping, especially on Water Street and Duckworth Street, which are known for their great cafes and craft shops. St John’s has a bit of everything: the hustle and bustle of a lively city (especially in the evenings and on weekends) but it also allows you to take things a little slower and just mooch around, soaking up the atmosphere of its streets.

This evening’s dinner was at St John’s Fish Exchange and seafood was very much on the menu. The restaurant is both modern and old-school, recognising the importance of the hard-working men and women of Newfoundland who risked their lives daily on the open seas to provide for their families. Here, I tried fresh, local oysters and they were deliciously salty and refreshing.

The seafood in Newfoundland is exquisite, and for that alone is worth the five and a half hours flight. So, if you’re looking for a city break that has the beauty of the great outdoors as well as the liveliness of a city, then Newfoundland and Labrador should be next on your list.

Images: Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism; Shahed Ezaydi