One of the things I love most about Madeira is the fact it stays warm all-year round, making it perfect for a long weekend jaunt. Boasting a moderate subtropical climate, temperatures can range between 20 °C to 24 °C during the spring months. The volcanic island also has a variety of microclimates, depending on where you happen to be staying – i.e., the higher up you go, the cooler it will feel. 

If you’re looking for some beach time, the Calheta Sand Beach, located on the island’s sunny west coast, is ideal for pitching up with a picnic. With golden sand imported from Morocco, this beach is great for swimming and is a must for those active types who enjoy a spot of canoeing or windsurfing. 

Calheta is also a great base from which to take a whale or dolphin watching tour. We chose Lobosonda for their ethical approach to sighting the animals in the wild, and they are highly intuitive when it comes to observing and monitoring their behaviours. While we didn’t see any whales, we saw plenty of spotted and bottlenose dolphins, an experience made all the more special because the boat crew gave them plenty of space to jump and play around us undisturbed.

One of my favourite experiences of my weekend in Madeira was taking in the sun at Seixal Beach, a black-sand beauty situated on the island’s north coast, overlooked by lush green mountains and crisp blue skies. While the waves can be a little choppy, the dark sand and stunning vistas make for a unique Insta-worthy backdrop. A thirst-quenching cold beer at the nearby pier bar is an absolutely essential accompaniment to soaking up the beach’s rugged splendour after a brisk sea swim.

The warm weather also means that Madeira stays green and lush for most of the year, so if beaches aren’t really your thing, hiking or simply cruising about in a hire car is also a great option. Madeira celebrates its biodiverse environment, and there are plenty of viewpoints dotted around the island from which travellers can take in these epic landscapes. 

Looking out across the dense forest canopies and rocky enclaves – cue the Jurassic Park music (trust me, it will happen at some point while you’re there) – you’re met with the smell of eucalyptus, sea salt and wildflowers, a myriad of untamed blooms that seem to burst from every crag and roadside nook. It really is quite breathtaking, and – if you’re like me, a little on the whimsical side – much like the fairytale forests you envisioned as a child.

In terms of clothing, I would definitely recommend packing light layers, comfy sports gear (if you’re planning on walking about) (I lived in my trusty Lululemon cycling shorts), trainers for those hills (there are many), and a cap to keep the midday sun off your face.

Weather-wise, showers can be frequent but are short-lived, so a waterproof is another essential piece of kit. The breeze is deceptive, so make sure you’re applying SPF on the reg, especially on your face. The evenings can feel cool too, so make sure you have a decent overshirt or denim to throw on if you’re eating outside. 

Which leads me swiftly on to what to eat and what to drink on the island. Forgive me at any point if I veer off into Real Housewives of Clapton territory, but when it comes to nailing small plates and natty wines, Madeira is one to watch. 

Boasting both luxurious accommodation and exquisite wines, family-owned Terra Bona Wine Country Wellness Retreat offers guests an unforgettable stay in one of four stunning villas positioned near the Quinta do Cardo vineyard on Madeira’s north coast. Boasting a ‘micro-winery’ specialising in small batch production – their Terra Bona Family Harvest white wine is sensational – and a valley-dipped setting that’s jaw-droppingly beautiful, this is accommodation for the achingly cool foodie.

The property is quiet, with every detail carefully considered. I took a stroll around, glass in hand, absorbing everything, from the towering trees lining the valley surround, to the soothing sound of water tumbling in the stream below. The air is fragrant, the soundtrack is air and birdsong. Heavenly. Owners Maria and Marco also offer a range of guest experiences such as a weekend ‘family dinner’ onsite (I’m still dreaming about Maria’s rustic cod bake served alongside a crisp glass of the aforementioned wine, followed by fresh passionfruit and local Uaucacau chocolates), as well as yoga, massages and sailing afternoons.

The Socalco Nature Calheta overlooks the ocean on Madeira’s south west coast. While the space offers up a fabulous set of houses and rooms, the hotel’s RAZÃO Restaurante is well worth a visit. Conceived by local chef Octávio Freitas, there is no set menu, only course after course of food that celebrates authentic Madeira flavours. During my visit I got to sample succulent pork in a sweet Madeira wine sauce, served with sticky rice, and just-out-of-the-sea scallops in a zesty green dressing.

A boozy lunch at ÁKUA, a smart eatery in the heart of Madeira’s capital Funchal, was a joy. Focussing primarily on seafood, this ‘older brother’ to Chef Júlio Pereira’s other eatery Kampo offers up a fun take on fine fish dining, serving everything from fish ‘sausage’ (cured like a saucisson – yes, really) to fried codfish tacos. Personally, I measure the quality of a restaurant on its bread offering, and ÁKUA doesn’t disappoint. Thick slabs of warm sourdough (which any discerning Clapton-resident would queue at least an hour for) are served with cured butter sprinkled with seaweed. I could have scarfed down three platefuls.

Of course, there are less-cheffy snacks to consume across the island, including the obligatory pastel de natas (I ate at least one for breakfast each morning with a strong cup of coffee, sorry not sorry), which you can find in any hotel breakfast or local bakery. 

Also, do try a dry Madeira wine and tonic. Much like the white port/tonic phenom that happened a couple years ago, this combination is a low-key summer drink that you can use to impress your mates post-holiday. Lower in alcohol than the usual spirit and mixer, this spritz is light and refreshing when served with citrus and lots of ice – just make sure you opt for the dry Madeira wine rather than sweet.

Finally, Madeira is perfect for getting your Attenborough on. To fully absorb the island’s epic natural vistas, we took a half-day jeep tour with True Spirit – a company fully committed to operate within the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals. Eco-tourism is at the forefront of Madeira’s messaging when it comes to welcoming new visitors, and businesses like True Spirit are leading the charge when it comes to embracing this ethos.

Heading to the north of the island, we visited the incredible Laurissilva forest – a subtropical rainforest and protected UNESCO site that’s thought to be over 20 million years old. Fans of The Lord of the Rings will be familiar with the ancient forest Fangorn, in which the trees can move and speak to each other; the ancient trees of Laurissilva look and feel like they do the same. 

The air hums with an indescribable energy when walking among them, while the changeable microclimate takes you from damp and misty to thick sunshine in mere minutes. When placing your hands on these prehistoric and twisted giants, the bark almost thrums beneath your touch. It’s magical, and very moving. I almost didn’t want to leave. I used to laugh at my old hippy father and call him a ‘tree-hugger’ – believe me, if I hadn’t been in a group, I would have thrown my arms around one of these wise old Lauraceae trees and bawled my eyes out.

More adrenaline-driven (and less emotional) types will be glad to hear that hiking is hugely popular in Laurissilva, as well as canyoning, climbing and mountain-biking. Whatever your oreintation, a trip to Laurissilva is an absolute must when visiting Madeira. Waterfalls and craggy mountain passes festooned with purple flowers wind in and around its borders (cue that Jurassic Park music again…). Luckily, our guide took us home via a local honey farmer to try ‘poncha’, a local drink made of honey mixed with a very healthy shot of rum.

And eco-tourism doesn’t just apply to Madeira’s landscapes – plenty of tour operators (like True Spirit), hotels and restaurants are taking steps to become more sustainable in order to protect the island’s unique climate and ecological sites. From solar-powered catamarans to hydro and wind power (the island currently generates about 30% of its own energy), Madeira aims to one day be totally sustainable. It’s this passion that really gets under your skin when visiting Madeira. FYI, I’m already planning my next visit…