As someone who works in social media with a minimum daily screen time of six hours and a habit of filling ‘restful’ annual leave with busy city breaks, I rarely find time to switch off. Overwhelmed and overstimulated from the cycle of the packed commute, bright office lights, never-ending notifications and emails, I’d started daydreaming about what life would be like if I switched my phone off and moved to a remote island. So, heading to a relatively unknown island with fewer than 200 inhabitants was an offer I couldn’t pass up.

Luing is an island in the Inner Hebrides on the west coast of Scotland. If you’re looking for somewhere to step away from the hustle and bustle and completely switch off, this is it. After a three-hour drive from Glasgow airport and a three-minute ferry crossing, I immediately feel like I’ve discovered one of Scotland’s best-kept secrets: an exclusive peek at an unexplored haven before it inevitably appears on everyone’s travel radar.

There are barely any people or cars in sight as we travel across the six-mile stretch to WildLuing, a coastal retreat on the north-east of the island where we’ll be staying. Opened in 2023 by Emily, Jack and Archie Cadzow (whose family own the island and have farmed there for over 75 years), WildLuing is like next-level glamping. Each of the eight luxurious self-catered suites is generously spaced out along the coastline, overlooking the peaceful Torsa Bay in the Firth of Lorn.  

I could immediately tell that WildLuing was a passion project for the Cadzows: the suites were built sustainably by brothers Jack and Archie, and the calming interiors were designed by Jack’s wife, Emily, and his mother, Tooti. Outside, the pods blend in seamlessly with the landscape. Inside, they’re spacious but cosy, and equipped with all the luxuries you need for a weekend away: a cafetière to make freshly brewed coffee, a roll-top bath positioned for epic views of the bay and a rainforest shower with toiletries from The Highland Soap Co.

The suites are self-catered, so I’d recommend stocking up on supplies in the town of Oban as Luing has just one village shop for essentials, a cafe and zero pubs. But don’t let that put you off; Luing makes up for it with its beautiful scenery. WildLuing chefs Kitty and Iain can provide hampers of fresh local produce if you’d prefer. It’s worth it for the breakfast hamper alone: a freshly baked loaf, homemade granola and berry compote, yoghurt, butter, eggs, milk, orange juice and a jar of homemade Scottish tablet (which I devoured within 15 minutes of checking in).  

With a fully equipped kitchen and BBQ (you’re provided with a fire starter kit upon arrival), you won’t go hungry in your suite. But if you’re looking to make as little effort as possible on the cooking front, the team can also provide ingredients for your dinners during your stay, including salads, fresh fish and the renowned Luing beef. If you’re staying in a larger group and prefer to eat together, you can hire the Observatory – WildLuing’s shared space – which has an open-plan kitchen, dining and living area.

WildLuing also hosts events in the space for locals and visitors, from supper nights to cooking classes and yoga retreats. We were spoilt with oysters as pre-dinner canapés and the freshest seafood, including langoustines, squat lobsters and grilled mackerel, as well as Luing beefburgers. 

Only a few hours after arriving, I felt my whirring mind start to slow. At home, I’m guilty of what I call ‘multitasking overwhelm’, attempting to cook with one hand and scrolling with the other or stuffing washing into the machine while sending emails – a bit like a hamster on a wheel speeding along at 100mph. Here I could sit quietly, trying to spot the families of otters and seals that live in the bay, or scanning the skies for gannets and sea eagles. My phone remained firmly in my bag. At night, stargazing was a must-do activity and the WildLuing staff showed us their breathtaking photos of the Northern Lights that could be seen dancing over the suites just a few weeks earlier. With no TV in the room, I ended the evenings curled up in a soft cloud (aka the buttery soft bedding) and reading Miranda July’s All Fours and listening to the gentle patter of the rain on the roof.

I must have slept well because the next morning I woke up voluntarily at 6.30am to watch the sunrise from the sanctuary of my suite before walking down to the water for a freezing but invigorating wild swim in Torsa Bay. Wild swimming is endlessly praised by experts for its wellness benefits, and I emerged with that addictive ‘buzzy’ feeling everyone talks about, before dashing back to the suite to warm up in the bath. Soaking in a lemongrass and ginger bubble bath with a clear mind and coffee in hand was a highlight.

If you don’t fancy sprinting back to your suite to warm up, WildLuing has plans to build a sauna and a swimming pontoon for spring 2025 – ideal for outdoor yoga classes or sunbathing when the weather is kind enough. In the evenings before dinner, we sat in the same spot by the water, staying toasty next to the fire pit with hot chocolate and marshmallows. 

Whiling away the hours at WildLuing may be more than enough, but fans of the outdoors have so much more to explore. Start by hiking up to the highest point on the island to look out over Fladda lighthouse or walk to the conservation villages of Toberonochy and Cullipool, which are lined with charming white Hebridean cottages. Stop for lunch at the Atlantic Islands Centre to try fresh langoustines or feast on cakes and sourdough made by the Isle of Luing Bakers. The weather can switch in minutes, so come prepared with waterproof clothing and a good pair of hiking boots (but the number of rainbows you’re rewarded with makes the showers worthwhile). If you have a dog, they’ll be lapping it up in Luing: there are plenty of lovely walks, and most of WildLuing’s suites are dog-friendly. If you don’t own a dog but love to pet every single one you see (like me), you’ll still be in for a treat: Jack and Emily’s cocker spaniel, Puffin, and terrier, Piglet, are always bounding energetically around the grounds and stopping for cuddles.

Other activities around the island include sea kayaking, diving or snorkelling in marine protected areas. You can also explore Scarba by boat – it’s a beautiful, uninhabited island where the Cadzow family are renovating a bothy. Dock here for a private lunch looking out towards the water – ours was a delicious feast of venison, bean stew and couscous salad with homemade salsa verde and tzatziki. Local company Wild Island Experience also charters boat trips to the island, including evening and overnight trips. On our journey back to Luing, we passed a dozen seals sunbathing on a rock, and the more curious ones would swim up to the boat and bob their heads above the water. We caught our own mackerel from the boat, which chef Iain later sliced up for the freshest sashimi I have ever had.

Having those few days to look up and around rather than down at my phone felt like hitting a reset button, and I arrived home feeling more mentally recharged than I’d felt in a while. Luing is now added to the list of happy places I visualise whenever I’m feeling stressed or overwhelmed. I think of myself looking out towards the bay, with a quiet mind and no one else around. It turns out that spending three days walking, wild swimming and wildlife spotting really does give me more patience when I’m back on the Central line.   

Each WildLuing suite sleeps two and costs from £200 a night.

The Observatory can be hired for events and group bookings. Exclusive use of the site, including all eight suites, the Observatory and optional catering, is also available – enquire directly with WildLuing for availability and prices.

Images: WildLuing; Sophie Boyden