Whether it’s Poreč to Pula or Opatija to Zadar, the Croatian coastline – all 1,100 miles of it – is designed to be explored offshore. I know because I’ve dipped my toe in these very clear waters before. A couple of years back I ferry-hopped from Split to Korčula via Hvar (Croatia has over 1,200 islands, 48 of which are inhabited, but this is probably the most popular stretch) before travelling back on myself to Split and falling deeply in love with every cove, cave and walled city on the way.

So magical was my trip that this time round, I greedily double up my days, heading first to Istria in Croatia’s north. Flying into Pula, I spend two nights in Rovinj (dolphin watching, a boat trip to Red Island and a mean scampi buzara at La Puntulina), two nights in Opatija (stroll along the 12km Franz-Josef promenade for all the sights, including the Lido Beach Club) and two nights in Šibenik (6km from the old town, we stayed by the beaches in a charming toy town-like resort called Amadria Park) before grabbing a cab to Split to catch a boat and hit the water. And this time I’m not taking a ferry; I’m being chauffeur-boated on a small luxury ship.

The MV Bellissima is the flashy yet still very classy boutique cruise ship that’s going to float me along the Adriatic for seven nights until we reach Dubrovnik. En route, we’ll be stopping off at Trogir, Hvar, Vis, Korčula and Slano/Ston – an itinerary that Unforgettable Croatia (the UK’s largest luxury tour operator to Croatia) calls its signature route, so crammed is it with must-see sights

I board with high hopes, a bumper pack of Kalms and a bit of apprehension. I like to travel independently and avoid anything that feels too tour-like. Will a cruise be my vibe? But I’ve been assured by Unforgettable Croatia that this is cruising with a difference, and I can absolutely confirm that this is no fib. Bespoke, boutique and making me believe I’ve borrowed the life of a Riveria-bound CEO, as soon as I board MV Bellissima it’s clear this is going to be a luxurious place to spend time. Oh, and I don’t need my Kalms once.

Far from a towering cruise liner, the Bellissima is the perfect blend of impressive and intimate. Our cabin, all calming neutrals with an ensuite and a dinky balcony, is one of just 18 spread across two decks. There’s a fully stocked bar and restaurant on the middle deck (a karaoke machine emerges by the end of the week, once we’re all well acquainted), and rows of sun loungers and a jacuzzi on the upper deck. The sun deck is such a pinch-me space that all week I see guests on other boats comparing ours to theirs and looking a teensy bit jealous.

Dockside in Split, night one is all about the welcome dinner to meet the crew and other guests (it’s the first of two dinners on board – all other nights are island dining). There are lots of Americans, some New Zealanders and a smattering of Brits. I have a slight panic about feeling like I’m on an international school trip, but it quickly dissipates and the boat is big enough to carve out solitude as well as conversation. Remember that line from Jaws about needing a bigger boat? Not needed here. Indeed, by the week’s end, group camaraderie is high.

Days at sea are a joyful routine to slip into and go pretty much like this: wake, breakfast, late morning swim somewhere ridiculously picturesque and remote, lunch, arrive at another island, disembark for fun and food, reboard the ship, sleep and repeat. No wheeling suitcases on and off ferries. No having to roll and unroll my sundresses 53 times – this is chauffeured island-hopping where your brain can take a break. I normally spend so much time organising every single facet of my life that it’s a real treat to be steered by someone else.

Each stop includes an organised tour. In Trogir, anchored up right against the harbour like we’ve just parked a car, we head to Krka national park, one of eight in Croatia, and its emerald Skradinski Buk waterfall. In Hvar, we sample the vines at Tomić winery before exploring the cobbled yet cosmopolitan old town. Off Vis, on the islet of Biševo, we steer into the famously luminous Blue Cave before being dropped back squarely onto the deck of our ship (boat-to-boat service – so 007). In Mljet national park, I giddily ride a lazy river-style canal that links two saltwater lakes, an experience only topped by oyster tasting on a floating barge three hours later in Ston, while the tangerine sun sets on the water.

While full of highlights, the itinerary is far from hectic, and affords plenty of personal time. On Korčula, we take a water taxi to swim in the crystal clear coves of Badija island before jewellery shopping in the old town (head to Irena for the most amazing coral rings). At Vis we sit front row at an open-air cinema overlooking the sea and watch Barbie under the stars. At Jelsa, the less talked about gem of Hvar, I practically inhale spaghetti with monkfish at culinary hotspot Mrs & Mrs Jones, metres away from the water’s edge, while playing who’s got the biggest boat.

In addition to Croatia’s islands, journeying on the Bellissima is a major highlight. You’re essentially super-yachting, passing spectacular scenery like Bol’s Golden Horn beach every day and stepping directly off the gangplank onto the promenade at some ports like you’re Amal Clooney. And at others, arriving alongside a gaggle of other deluxe ships and walking through six other vessels to reach dry land. Below deck, three-course lunches are packed with local delicacies (from beef pašticada stew with gnocchi to flaky cheese-layered bureks, you name it, we ate it) with daily drop-in sessions to taste local wine and olive oil or learn a slice of Croatian history. The crew is brilliant; I don’t think I’ve ever had a shot of liquor delivered to me while treading water before, but certainly not while wearing a snorkel.

But my absolute favourite part of the experience is the daily swim stops where you get to splash around in some unbelievable sapphire waters and anchor up in secluded spots you’d never normally see. Fumija in Trogir, Rt Glavica in Jelsa, Uvala Parja in Vis, Lovište-Peljesac near Korčula, Rt Tri Brata in Dubrovnik. At each, the crew would secure the ship then pull out the SUPs, kayaks and every inflatable device going (pretzels, flamingos, donuts…) to spend a couple of blissful hours floating, paddling and spotting the occasional Croatian nudist.

By our final stop in Dubrovnik – you dock in the cruise port area of Gruz/Kantafig and take a bus to the old town to walk the walls to finish off the trip – I’m a boutique cruise convert, having loved the fact that I’ve seen so much while doing so very little. It turns out that Unforgettable Croatia named itself pretty well, and this is one hell of a way to travel.

Images: Susan Riley and Unforgettable Croatia

Unforgettable Croatia’s Luxury Split to Dubrovnik Cruise on the MV Bellissima sails May-October 2024, from £1,645 per person (based on two sharing) for seven nights. Price includes private transfers, half board including daily buffet breakfast, three-course set lunch with drinks, select dinners and daily fresh fruit, on-shore guided tours and free wi-fi. Visit the website or call 0208 004 2345 to book.