The benefits of cold water exposure have been well-documented, and as a wellness writer, I’m constantly coming across new experts and studies praising the benefits of cold water for everything from immune health to mental wellbeing. But beyond the odd sauna and cold plunge session, I’d never given cold water exposure a proper go.

That was until the end of last year, when I got the chance to head to Troon on the west coast of Scotland for ‘The Wellness Weekend’ – the first in a series of retreats hosted by cold water swimmer, surfer and yoga instructor Sophie Hellyer in partnership with Marine & Lawn Hotels & Resorts.  

As well as some guided cold water dips, the retreat promised a series of relaxing yoga, breathwork and mindfulness sessions as well as some delicious, nourishing food and the chance to connect with like-minded people. So, armed with my swimming costume and a willingness to give cold water therapy a try, I headed off to Scotland to take the plunge.  

The cold water sessions are timed to take place just as the sun is rising, so we met Hellyer in the hotel lobby at around 8am on the first morning of the retreat. As the retreat is aimed at complete beginners, she spent the next 10-15 minutes giving us a quick safety briefing. We learned all about the dangers of cold water shock, how to control our breathing and the afterdrop effect – aka how your internal temperature continues to fall after you get out of cold water, as cool blood from the surface of your body travels towards your core. For this reason, we were told to bring warm layers to wrap up in afterwards, including a hat, gloves and socks (I was lucky enough to get my hands on a Dry Robe and would recommend bringing something similar).

Once the safety briefing was done, we started our short walk down to the beach. The idea of getting in the sea in Scotland in winter was already filling me with dread, but when I noticed flakes of snow falling from the sky, I started to rethink all the decisions that had led me to that moment. I knew I was going to get in – I’m nothing if not dedicated – but I was no longer convinced I’d enjoy it. How could I?

Perhaps the trickiest part of the whole ordeal was putting my socks and shoes on, because I couldn’t really feel my feet. But once I had managed to locate them and throw on my other layers, I was amazed by how alive I felt. The feeling was akin to that rush of joy and excitement you get after doing a big presentation at work or completing a big physical challenge, but it took just a few minutes to produce.  

I was surprised to learn that there’s nothing technical about getting into the sea for a cold water swim – like you would during the summer, you just walk in. I was also surprised by how quickly I managed to get myself in and pop my shoulders under, spurred on by Hellyer’s encouraging words and advice. While my long-sleeved Finisterre swimsuit stopped the cold water penetrating my skin straight away, my feet were absolutely frozen from the moment I stepped into the water and slowly became incredibly painful. I lasted about a minute before I decided to get out, which was plenty long enough.  

Both mornings of the retreat started with a cold swim, which made the yoga, mindfulness and breathwork sessions we enjoyed throughout the days feel even more relaxing. There’s something about starting your day with a dip in the sea that really brings you into the present – which, when paired with sessions that help you to slow down, really allows you to unwind.

I’ve done a lot of yoga and breathwork in the past, but I really appreciated the variety of sessions available at this retreat, and the judgement-free, relaxed environment that Hellyer created made for a really enriching experience. In fact, I was so relaxed in one of the breathwork sessions that my Oura ring showed my stress level reached zero – something I’d never seen before.

Perhaps the most transformative session of the whole weekend was the restorative yoga we did on Friday evening, soon after our arrival at the hotel. This form of yoga is all about staying still, with the poses held for three to four minutes at a time. I don’t consider myself a super ‘busy’ person – I’m all about making time for rest and relaxation – so I was confronted by how challenging I found simply existing in the moment. It was a reminder that, while I might make time for physical rest, I rarely give my mind a chance to wander and unwind.  

While the focus of the retreat was undoubtedly the activities, the accommodation at Marine Troon really added to the experience. I was at the hotel during Storm Bert, and the contrast between the cold sea and bad weather outside and the warm rooms, good food and relaxing spa made the temporary discomfort of the water so much easier to bear.

If you’ve been thinking about giving cold water therapy a go, I’d thoroughly recommend booking a place on this retreat. Prices for one person start from £495, but with two nights’ accommodation and all meals and activities included, it’s definitely worth the money.

By the time I got back from my weekend in Troon, I felt more relaxed and connected to myself than I had in a long time. The remote location certainly helps, but getting the opportunity to move slowly, meet new people and challenge myself to choose discomfort made the real difference – and I’m already on the hunt for my next cold water experience. 

The Wellness Weekend with Sophie Hellyer will take place on 31 January-2 February and 21 February-23 February. Book your spot here.

Images: Rhona Armstrong for Marine & Lawn Hotels