“Where?”

My friend looks at me quizzically.

“Bhutan. It’s a kingdom in the Himalayas,” I said, not realising that I was – at this point – pronouncing it entirely incorrectly wrong (fyi: lean heavily into an ‘ahn’ sound when hitting the second syllable).

“Oh,” she says with a smirk. “So no Ibiza this year?”

I’m aware this has become my trademark. A jaunt to Glastonbury Festival swiftly followed by a blowout on the White Isle. It was the first thing I did post-pandemic. But, in that summer of 2022, the whole sequence, while fun, felt… a little unfulfilling.

I’m not alone in feeling this. 

Research taken from the Wishing Wall – an interactive installation at our 2022 Stylist Live event where guests shared their hopes for the year ahead – showed that one in five Stylist women have completely changed their priorities in the last two years, with 60% saying they now want to concentrate on having more meaningful experiences. Words such as ‘exploration’ and ‘adventure’ were used repeatedly. It’s clear that when it comes to holidays, we’re all looking for something more.

Which brings me back to Bhutan. With a rich history rooted in Buddhism, ancient temples (called dzongs) and pine-covered mountainous vistas that look like something pulled from the pages of a fairy-tale book – is it any wonder that this magical place is fast becoming one of the most talked-about locations to help people reawaken the sense of adventure they’re so lacking?

So, I decided to spend six days exploring the Kingdom of Bhutan, and arguably, myself. Here’s what I learned.

If, like my friend, you aren’t already familiar, Bhutan is a small, vibrant kingdom in the eastern Himalayas, nestled between China in the north and India in the south. Hemmed in and largely hidden away from the world, Bhutan has, until now, only really been explored by those wishing to hike its famous trails or attend one of its festivals (tshechus).

While passionate about preserving its traditions and cultural identity, Bhutan is also known for being extremely progressive. Since the early 1970s, Bhutan has measured its prosperity based on national happiness rather than GDP (gross domestic product), which takes the radical approach of placing national wellbeing over material gain. It also happens to be the world’s only carbon-negative country.

It’s late February when I arrive, and I’m glad I’m a festival veteran. Why? Because I packed layers. Lots and lots of layers. While the early spring sunshine will keep travellers warm in the day, it’s worth bearing in mind that Bhutan is a mountainous country with temperatures that fall quite drastically once the sun goes down.

“Everything is very slow here,” says our guide Dorji Bidha when I tell her I’ve come from London (the first of many comments, quips and nuggets of knowledge from Dorji that would spark joy throughout the trip). “Get ready to take things slow.”

One of only a handful of licensed female guides, Dorji has been accompanying groups of tourists around Bhutan for the last six years and takes pride in her work. Driving alongside the glacial Paro Chhu River en route to the country’s capital, Thimphu, she gives us a brief overview of Bhutan’s political, religious and cultural history, while ‘Captain’ – our silent yet quietly charismatic driver – navigates the people-carrier through the craggy valley. 

Both wear traditional Bhutanese dress – Captain in a smart, black gho with white sleeves, and Dorji in a chequered kira. The Bhutanese are incredibly proud of their culture and their national dress, so much so that nearly every person I see on the way to Thimphu is clad in the same fashion.

“The young people take them off when they go out at night, though,” Dorji reveals quietly.

I ask about the prayer flags scattered along the mountain pass like thousands of brightly coloured wings. Colour has meaning here, Dorji explains. All colours represent the elements, nature. The clusters of white flags are for remembrance. 

“So many things are connected spiritually in Bhutan,” she says, as we stop for a herd of brown shaggy cattle that have decided to cross the road. Aside from the cows’ crunching hooves and the soft clanging of their neck bells, it’s a strangely serene moment. No horns beeping. No manic rush to get anywhere.

“See. Everything is connected, but… life moves slow,” Dorji laughs as the road clears and we rumble away.

Bhutan’s capital is situated in the western part of the country, and Dorji tells me that up until 10 years ago the city outskirts were still a patchwork of farms and paddy fields. Now, it’s the country’s political and economic seat and is a hub of activity (or as busy as you can get considering the population is estimated at around 140,000 people).

The Bhutanese love making people feel welcome and there are plenty of options (budget dependent) when it comes to finding somewhere to stay, whether that’s in Thimphu itself or in one of the other areas outside of the capital. 

With views overlooking the impressive Great Buddha Dordenm – a gigantic golden Shakyamuni Buddha statue that sits serenely among the mountains – Six Senses Thimphu is one of Bhutan’s more luxurious accommodation choices, with a collection of villas and suites that fuse traditional Bhutanese design with a sleek modern aesthetic. Move about the space and you’re met with the warm smell of fresh timber, and as night falls, fires are lit throughout the complex. There are even traditional wood-burning bukhari stoves in each of the lodges to help take the chill off as you derobe and settle into a scented Himalayan salt bath.

After two nights in Thimphu, our party then makes its way onto Punakha. Bhutan’s original capital city until 1955, the town is best known for the Punakha Dzong, a spectacular piece of architecture that sits at the juncture of the Pho and Mo Chhu rivers. After exploring the temple with Dorji (definitely give yourself a few hours – it’s massive), we rumble up a hilly dirt track to meet married couple Karma and Lala, whose family home we’re staying in for the night.

Ideal for those seeking an authentic Bhutanese experience, homestays are a popular choice, especially if you’re on a budget. Greeted with a cup of traditional butter tea (an acquired taste), Karma and Lala are the perfect hosts, answering our questions as best they can between running in and out of the kitchen for baskets of homemade snacks and treats. Small dogs sunbathe among the cabbages as we look out over the valley, the Punakha Dzong placed like an impressively carved matchbox way down below.

Once again, I am struck by this overwhelming pride the Bhutanese have in the smallest things, whether that’s a snippet of Karma’s regional knowledge (he’s a geography teacher at the local school) or a pot of Lala’s fresh ginger tea made to help settle one of our party’s altitude-affected stomach. The amenities are basic – we all share a bathroom, and beds are essentially mattresses on the floor – but it doesn’t matter. Snuggled under my blanket after a home-cooked meal, my heart feels full. I fall asleep to the sound of the family’s ragtag pack of dogs prowling the perimeter, ready to sound off if someone dares stray into their cabbage patch.

While I love the hushed reverence of Bhutan’s beautiful dzongs and the dynamic landscape, I’m also a bit of a closet twitcher (aka birdwatcher), so when I found out that there was a chance of seeing rare black-necked cranes during my visit, I was more than a little excited.

Making our way through the mountains to the Phobjikha Valley and the Gangtey Monastery, Dorji tells us that the cranes symbolise peace and prosperity to the Buddhist people. They are also thought to represent the souls of loved ones, sent from the heavens to watch over us. After nearly three hours of driving on the steep and winding roads from Punaka through to Gangtey, and with hints of altitude sickness creeping into my system, it’s hard not to feel emotional.

This area of Bhutan feels far removed from the likes of Paro and Thimphu. The chilly spring air is fragrant with the scent of blue pine and damp grass, the Phobjikha Valley laid out vast and quiet as we take the steep walk up to the monastery from the stunning Gangtey Lodge – our home for the next two nights.

“Look,” Dorji says, grabbing my arm and pointing to the sky.

And there they are. Four or five black-necked cranes flying overhead. Majestic, awe-inspiring. A bit noisy. For a moment, their calls are louder than the clangs of the monastery’s prayer wheel up ahead.

“They’ve come all the way from Tibet,” Dorji tells me. The song Cranes In The Sky by Solange Knowles suddenly pops into my head. I ask Dorji whether she’s ever heard of it. I’m met with a blank look. I promise to make her a playlist.

If you can make the trip west as part of your Bhutan itinerary, then a stay at Gangtey Lodge is definitely worth budgeting for. Yes, it’s luxury, but it’s luxury redefined. The staff are passionate about their work and their culture (the chats I had with head chef Soh Chia Hwa about how to live a more grateful and spiritual life quite honestly left me in tatters), plus the entire lodge has been created using local craftsmen to ensure it sits harmoniously within its surroundings. The suites are spacious and comfortable, with blessings and Bhutanese stories on locally made parchment left on your pillows each night to read before bed.

The lodge also offers traditional Bhutanese hot stone baths – another thing I’d read about and was desperate to try – where river stones are heated over a fire until burning hot, and then added to mechu (medicinal water) which is a combination of freshwater and artemisia leaves. These baths are thought to treat everything from arthritis to hypertension and are an absolute must if you, like me, believe in the power of a good soak. But don’t worry if you don’t make it as far as Gangtey. Hot stone baths are an institution in Bhutan, so wherever you are in the country, there will be somewhere to enjoy one locally. 

“How hard is it really, Dorji?” one of our party asks as we make the long trek back to Paro. Dorji shrugs and makes a ‘so-so’ gesture with her hand. Captain remains silent. “It’s OK,” she says hopefully.

After saying farewell to Gangtey, many of us are feeling tired, a bit overwrought and are suffering, to some degree, with altitude sickness. Climbing the Tiger’s Nest is the last thing on our itinerary before flying home, and we all have around 24 hours to decide whether or not we’re up for it.

Sitting 3,000 metres above the Paro Valley, the Paro Taktsang Monastery (or Tiger’s Nest Monastery) is probably Bhutan’s most famous landmark, and the hike up to the top is one of the country’s most popular activities, with both locals and tourists alike.  

At 8.30am the next day, we are one of the first groups to start the 6.4k (the ascent is around 520 metres) round trip up to the monastery and back. I’m flabbergasted that Dorji is undertaking this wearing a kira – we’ve only been walking for around 10 minutes and I’m already sweating/regretting every decision I’ve ever made – but she assures me that it’s best to take things slow. This theory works so well that we actually reach the halfway point (the cafeteria) in “record time” according to Dorji, who I feel is using every means, including flattery, to help get us up the mountain faster.

As hikes go, Tiger’s Nest is challenging, but not awful. And the views – the views! It’s easy to ignore your screaming knees when looking at this incredible temple clinging to the side of the cliff above, as though Buddha himself dropped it from heaven. 

When entering monasteries or temples in Bhutan, it’s customary to remove shoes and hats, and have your arms and legs covered (a long-sleeved linen shirt is invaluable). Oh, and no photos inside any temples or shrines. It’s considered highly disrespectful so just resist the urge and live in the moment. Absorb everything. The silence. The flickering butter lamps. All is sacred here, even down to the stray dogs that trot happily alongside you as you explore the perimeter.

Overall, the hike takes between five and seven hours, so do plan accordingly. Take lots of water and snacks, and definitely try getting there as early as possible. Even in February, by 11am the warm sun was causing problems for the ascending hikers we passed on our way back down the mountain. 

Now, there are some important things to know before you start planning your own Bhutanese adventure.

Firstly, you can’t fly directly to Bhutan from the UK. I flew via Bangkok but there are options that will take you through India. From your connection, you can fly to Paro Airport using either Druk Air or Bhutan Airlines, which are the country’s national carriers. The flight schedules can be a little sporadic, so make allowances for this when booking your connecting flights. You will also need a visa to enter Bhutan which you can apply for online and costs US$40 (£31).

As part of the visa application process, you will also be required to pay Bhutan’s sustainable development fee (SDF) of US$200 (£156) per day (per adult; concessionary rates apply for children). This levy is taken to support Bhutan’s development, preserve the kingdom’s assets and ensure tourists are visiting in sustainable numbers.

There is, however, a new initiative to help those who want to spend a longer period of time discovering the kingdom of Bhutan, with additional days on offer depending on how long you want to stay. To calculate how much SDF you’ll have to pay based on your itinerary, simply visit the Department of Immigration’s website.

Another thing to factor in is hiring a guide. If staying in Thimphu or Paro, then a guide isn’t required, but you will need to be accompanied by a guide for any journey or trek beyond these locations. It is also mandatory to have a guide when visiting monuments such as dzongs. However, if you are following a pre-booked tour itinerary or taking part in a trip organised by your hotel, a guide will be arranged for you.

Bhutan isn’t cheap. However, if, like me, you are treating this trip as a once-in-a-lifetime experience, it’s definitely worth saving up for. I weighed it up against what I would ordinarily spend over five days eating out and partying in Ibiza, and the difference wasn’t actually that huge.

The night Dorji takes us to Mojo Park, Thimphu’s ‘famous’ nightclub – also featured in the Oscar-nominated Bhutanese film A Yak In The Classroom – it’s Tuesday and largely empty save for me, Dorji and the rest of our travelling party. After a dinner of homemade momos and the national delicacy ema datshi (green chilis simmered in yak’s cheese) we’re keen to see how the locals cut loose.

As the house band makes their way through Ed Sheeran’s back catalogue, I get that surreal ‘how am I here?’ moment that happens when you suddenly find yourself in a place so far beyond your comfort zone it feels like being woken up from a deep sleep. There are pictures of random rock stars on the wall and crushed monkey nut shells on the floor. A group of young Bhutanese have traded traditional dress for western-style ripped jeans and branded hoodies. The girls make eyes at the guitarist. 

Dorji hands me a can of local beer as the band launches into a version of Don’t Worry, Be Happy, which feels hilariously apt. I ask Dorji over the din if she thinks Bhutan lives up to its ‘happiest country in the world’ tag. My answer comes in the form of an enthusiastically sung chorus, with Mojo Park’s patrons belting out the lyrics like a mantra.

“Don’t worry, be happy,” Dorji says, like it’s obvious. “That’s what’s important.”

It’s then, sipping my warm beer, that I’m reminded of what I wanted to learn from this trip – rediscovering my sense of adventure, the importance of feeling happy and appreciating every moment. Thank you, Bhutan, for helping me do just that.

Rates at Six Senses Thimphu start from Nu. 146,500 (approx. £1,450) for a one-night stay based on two people sharing on a full-board basis in a Lodge Suite.

Off-peak season rates (June, July, August, December, January, February) at Gangtey Lodge start from Nu. 43,052 (approx. £425) for a one-night stay based on two people sharing on a full-board basis in a Farmhouse Suite.

You can access a list of homestays that are registered and certified by the Department of Tourism (DOT) here.

Images: Amie-Jo Locke; courtesy of hotels