It’s such a treat when you find a great Middle Eastern restaurant that serves delicious and authentic food that you’ll likely never want to part ways with this lucky find. But there’s a new cookbook that will change all that. The Levantine Vegetarian: Recipes from the Middle East by Salma Hage is here to show us how to cook up some vibrant vegetarian recipes in our own homes that will capture the essence of the Middle East.

Her book features 140 easy-to-make, tasty and uplifting plant-based recipes, including classics such as falafels, hummus and tabbouleh, along with more unique dishes from the region that you may not have come across before.

We’ve picked our three favourite recipes from The Levantine Vegetarian, all of which revolve around the iconic Middle Eastern ingredient: za’atar.

Za’atar

Hage says: “Wild thyme, or za’atar in Arabic, grows wild in the mountains and hedgerows across the Levantine. And this herb is the star ingredient in this eponymous Levantine spice blend.

The dried thyme available in the West is different but similar enough. In some parts of the Middle East, you can buy the regally named ‘royal red za’atar’ in decorative jars, layered with desiccated coconut and pistachios. It is far too sweet for my tastes but well-worth seeking out in specialist shops if you’re a za’atar fan.

While za’atar can be found on supermarket shelves across the UK these days, I encourage you to make it at home. It’s easy to make and infinitely better than store-bought products.”

Makes 1 x 300ml jar

• 4 tablespoons sesame seeds
• 6 tablespoons dried thyme
• 6 tablespoons sumac
• 1⁄2 teaspoon salt

Toast the sesame seeds in a dry frying pan or skillet over medium heat for two to three minutes, or until light golden.

In a food processor, combine the thyme, sumac and salt and grind until fine. Transfer to a bowl. Stir in the toasted sesame seeds.

Transfer to a clean 300ml/10 fl oz jar. Cover and store at room temperature for up to six months. 

Pea and za’atar falafel

Hage says: “I always have a bag of peas in my freezer for quick pastas, sides and this recipe. Though green peas aren’t traditional, I love the colour and sweetness they bring to these hot, crispy falafel, which will disappear as soon as they hit the table. Serve these simply with flatbreads, tahini sauce and a chopped tomato salad, or with herby grains and chopped cucumber.”

Ingredients

• 200g dried chickpeas, soaked with 1⁄2 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda for 24 hours
• 1 onion, roughly chopped
• 100g frozen peas, defrosted
• 2 tbsp sesame seeds
• 2 tsp ground cumin
• 1 tsp ground coriander
• 1 tsp za’atar (above recipe)
• 1⁄2 tsp cayenne pepper
• 1⁄4 tsp ground cardamom
• 1⁄2 tsp baking powder
• 2 tsp fine salt
• Black pepper, to taste
• Vegetable oil, for frying

To serve

• Lebanese flatbreads
• Arabic garlic sauce
• Chopped tomatoes
• Chopped lettuce
• Fermented red cabbage or jarred pickled turnips 

Method

Drain and rinse the chickpeas. In a food processor, combine all the ingredients, except for the vegetable oil, and pulse until well mixed. Transfer the mixture to a bowl, cover and chill in the refrigerator for at least two hours, or overnight.

Heat the oil in a saucepan to a depth of 4cm over medium heat. The oil is ready when a cube of bread dropped in sizzles on contact and turns golden in 30 seconds. (Alternatively, use a thermometer and heat to 160°C)

Shape the falafel mixture into balls, about 4cm in diameter, or press slightly into patties.

Working in batches, carefully lower them into the hot oil and fry for two to three minutes on each side, until golden and crispy. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the falafel to a paper towel-lined baking sheet to drain. Keep warm. Repeat with the remaining falafel.

Serve a few falafel with flatbreads, garlicky sauce, tomatoes, lettuce and pickled vegetables, if using.

Za’atar fries

Hage says: “I like to pre-soak the fries in cold water, to remove excess starch from the potatoes. I also season the chips at the very end of cooking – if added during cooking, salt softens vegetables by drawing out moisture and causing them to steam in the oven. Be sure the oil gets nice and hot so the potatoes begin to crisp as soon as they go into the oven.”

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 1.5kg floury potatoes, peeled and cut into 1-cm batons
• 6 tbsp vegetable oil, for baking
• 2 tbsp za’atar 
• Salt and black pepper
• Mayonnaise, to serve

Method

Fill a large bowl with cold water. Add the potatoes and submerge for 30 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 220°C.

Divide the oil between two large roasting pans, then place them in the oven to heat up.

Meanwhile, drain the potatoes and pat dry with paper towels.

Carefully divide the potatoes between the hot pans, spreading them out into single layers. (They will steam up if they are tightly packed.) Bake for 30–40 minutes, occasionally giving the pans a good shake, until the fries are crisp and golden.

Using a slotted spoon, transfer the fries to a paper towel-lined plate to drain.

In a large bowl, combine the fries, za’atar, salt and pepper. Serve immediately, with a bowl of mayonnaise alongside, if desired. 

Cheesy za’atar swirls

Hage says: “A perfect addition to any picnic or with a drink before dinner, these pinwheel swirls couldn’t be any easier to make. Children love to help fill and shape the rolls, which also make a great snack. I often make a large batch and freeze them so I can prepare something for unexpected guests. If freezing, place them flat on a tray until frozen, then transfer them to a sealable bag. When cooking from frozen, bake for 25–30 minutes.”

Makes 10

Ingredients

• 1 x 320g sheet puff pastry
• 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp za’atar (above recipe)
• 100g halloumi, grated
• 75g grated mozzarella
• 2 tbsp pine nuts
• Milk, for brushing

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C. Line a work surface with a large sheet of parchment paper. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.

Unroll the puff pastry onto the parchment paper on the work surface, then brush the pastry with the oil. Sprinkle the za’atar, halloumi and mozzarella evenly over the pastry. Scatter over the pine nuts. Using the parchment underneath the pastry, roll it into a tight Swiss roll shape from one of the shorter edges to the other. Place on a tray and refrigerate for 15 minutes.

Using a serrated knife, cut the pastry into 2-cm thick slices. Place each one, cut side up, to expose the swirl on the prepared baking sheet.

Brush each roll with a little milk. Bake for 22–25 minutes, until the pastry is flaky and golden all over. Serve warm.

Leftover swirls can be stored for up to three days. Gently reheat in the oven before serving. 

The Levantine Vegetarian: Recipes from the Middle East by Salma Hage (Phaidon, £29.95) is out now

Images: Haarala Hamilton