Whether a gooey camembert, a smoky cheddar or a sweet wensleydale served on a simple cracker, cheese is the highlight of any festive grazing table. But what chutney pairs best with something aged and strong? And just how long does it take a mozzarella stick to become just the right amount of stringy and crispy?

Thankfully, experts Mathew Carver and Patrick McGuigan are here to tell you. From how to make the ultimate fondue to the perfect grilled sandwich, The Cheese Life is the only guide to baking and serving you’ll need this Christmas.

Here are three of their best comforting, cheese-filled recipes that are perfect for any kind of holiday season gathering. 

Serves 2

Ingredients

For the dippables

• 400g new potatoes, halved
• 1 sourdough loaf, preferably on the stale side
• cornichons
• salt and pepper

For the fondue

• 90g Cornish Kern cheese, grated (or use Gruyère)
• 90g Gouda cheese, grated
• 90g Ogleshield cheese, grated (or use raclette)
• 90g Mayfield cheese, grated (or use Emmenthal)
• 2 teaspoons cornflour 
• 1 garlic clove, halved
• 125ml dry white wine (can be substituted with apple juice)
• juice of ½ lemon
• nutmeg, for grating

Method

To prepare the dippables, preheat the oven to 190°C (375°F), Gas Mark 5. Place the potatoes in a pan of cold salted water, ensuring they are covered. Bring to the boil and simmer for 10–15 minutes. Drain and season with salt and pepper until slightly al dente.

Meanwhile, refresh your loaf: moisten the outside with a few tablespoons of water, and then bake in the oven for 10 minutes, until the crust is crispy. Slice into cubes small enough to fit in your mouth.

To prepare the fondue, in a bowl, mix the grated cheeses with most (5g/11⁄2 teaspoons) of the cornflour (cornstarch). Ensure the cheese is evenly coated. In a small bowl, mix your spare cornflour with a little cold water. Keep aside for later.

To prepare the pot, rub the cut edge of the garlic clove around the side and bottom of the pot, then crush the whole clove with the back of a knife and sling it in.

Add the white wine to the pot with the lemon juice. Then grate in a decent pinch of nutmeg (to taste). Place the pot over a medium heat on the hob and bring to the boil.

To make the fondue, reduce the heat, so the mixture stops boiling. Add your cheese to the wine, a handful at a time, and whisk hard after each handful, allowing the cheese to fully melt before adding more. Don’t let the cheese boil.

Once all the cheese is added, give the fondue a good whisk until it has all melted and it is glossy, smooth and stringy. If it starts to split, or you’re not getting a smooth fondue, then add a little of your cornflour–cold water mixture and whisk. Leave over a low heat while you complete the next steps.

To serve, plate up your bread, potatoes, cornichons and any other accompaniments you fancy. If you haven’t already, assemble your fondue burner (making sure it’s on a flat, heatproof surface!) and light it up. Ceremoniously deliver the pot of fondue to the table and enjoy.

Makes 25

Ingredients

For the puffs

• 115g water
• 115g full-fat (whole) milk
• 90g butter
• 145g plain (all-purpose) flour
• 4 large eggs, beaten, plus 1 extra to glaze
• 180g Gouda cheese, grated
• pinch of ground nutmeg
• salt and pepper

For the gouda cream

• 100g Gouda cheese, grated
• ½ teaspoon cornflour 
• 200ml double cream
• salt and pepper

Method

To make the puffs, preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6. Line a few baking trays with nonstick baking (parchment) paper.

In a medium saucepan, combine the measured water, milk and butter and bring to a gentle simmer.

While still over the heat, add the flour and salt and pepper. Stir and cook until you get a smooth, uniform dough: it should be pulling away from the sides of the pan. This should take about 2–3 minutes.

Remove from the heat and beat in the eggs, adding them a little at a time and waiting until each addition is fully incorporated before adding more.

Allow the dough to cool, then add three-quarters of the Gouda and the nutmeg.

Transfer to piping bags, then pipe puffs onto the lined baking trays. Each puff should be about the size of a walnut and spaced well apart as they will expand. With the final beaten egg, brush a glaze on the top of each puff and then sprinkle each with all the remaining Gouda.

Place the trays in the oven and cook for 22–25 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and use a skewer to poke a hole in each puff to release the steam.

To make the Gouda cream, in a bowl, toss the grated Gouda in the cornflour.

Heat the cream in a saucepan. When the cream starts to boil, reduce the heat and add the cheese. Whisk until fully melted, then season with salt and pepper.

Eat immediately, dipping the puffs in the Gouda cream.

Serves 2 for a main meal or 4 for a light supper

Ingredients

• 250g celeriac, peeled and sliced 1cm thick
• 250g potatoes, peeled and sliced 1cm thick
• drizzle of olive oil
• 1 yellow onion, thinly sliced
• 2 garlic cloves, sliced
• 80ml white wine
• 1 teaspoon chopped thyme
• 1 teaspoon chopped rosemary
• 80ml double cream
• 350g Maida Vale cheese (or similar reblochon-style washed-rind cheese), sliced in half horizontally
• salt and pepper
• pickles, to garnish (optional)

Method

Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F), Gas Mark 6.

Put the sliced celeriac and potatoes in a saucepan and cover with salted water. Bring to the boil and simmer for around 8 minutes until slightly al dente, as they’ll cook a bit more in the oven. Drain straight away and set aside for later.

While the potatoes and celeriac are cooking, heat the olive oil in a pan over a low heat. Add the onion and gently fry for 5–7 minutes, until soft and translucent. Add the garlic and cook for another couple of minutes. Add the white wine to the pan and allow to reduce for 2 minutes.

Remove from the heat and add the thyme, rosemary and cream. Pour into an ovenproof dish and mix in the cooked potatoes and celeriac. Top with the sliced cheese, rind up. Bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes until the cheese is melted and bubbling.

Serve immediately with pickles.

The Cheese Life by Mathew Carver and Patrick McGuigan (£25, Octopus) is out now. 

Images: Lizzie Mayson