Su says: “Unlike other types of mushroom, beautifully taut king oyster mushrooms have wonderfully dense and meaty stems that hold their shape even after cooking. When cut along the length, they have a pleasantly resistant, slightly chewy texture similar to pulled meat. Cut against the grain, I think they are somewhat reminiscent of a scallop. I love pairing oyster mushrooms with bold, punchy flavours to amplify the rich, savoury taste. The complex umami notes of doenjang work a treat, with a generous dose of rich butter helping to melt in the flavour that’s sweetened enough to bring out the savouriness. Dry-frying the mushrooms is particularly important, as it helps to remove some of the moisture and thereby to intensify the mushrooms into meaty morsels packed full of depth of flavour. It’s a technique I adapted from observing my mother blanch mushrooms before seasoning.”

Serves 2

Ingredients

• 4 king oyster mushrooms, about 300g (101/2oz)
• 1/2 tsp sea salt flakes
• 1 tbsp vegetable oil
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tbsp mirin
• 20g (3/4oz) unsalted butter
• 1–2 green finger chillies, sliced
• 1 tsp toasted white sesame seeds

For the sauce:

• 1 tbsp doenjang (Korean fermented bean paste)
• 1 tsp yondu (seasoning sauce)
• 1 tsp golden granulated sugar
• 100ml (31/2fl oz/scant 1/2 cup) water

Method

In a small mixing bowl, combine the sauce ingredients. Set aside until needed.

Slice the mushrooms lengthways about 5mm (1/4in) thick. Place a large, heavy-based frying pan (skillet) over a medium heat and get it nice and hot. Transfer the sliced mushrooms into the hot pan and sprinkle with the salt. Dry-fry for 5 minutes, turning occasionally to help the mushrooms cook evenly. You should notice the mushrooms start to lose some moisture and become softened and golden in places. Once the mushrooms have collapsed completely, lower the heat and add the vegetable oil and garlic. Briefly sauté to activate the aromas of the garlic – you want to be moving the pan constantly to prevent the garlic from burning.

Swiftly stir in the mirin and cook for 2 minutes. Add the sauce and cook for a further 2 minutes until the mushrooms have absorbed the flavour and there is about 2 tablespoons of liquid left in the pan. Melt in the butter to emulsify into the sauce – it should only take a minute or less. Remove from the heat and stir in the chillies and sesame seeds.

Divide into two bowls and serve warm with plain steamed rice.

Su says: “Lamb hasn’t always been consumed widely, nor been readily available in Korea up until recent years. Most of those who tried lamb (it was thought to be mutton, actually) weren’t so sure about the rich, almost pastoral taste and smell they recognised as gamey. But the steady increase of imported meat, and the introduction of cumin-spiced lamb skewers by Korean Chinese immigrants that sat more comfortably with the modern Korean palate, have greatly contributed to the increasing popularity of lamb, so people have become more familiar with the product and how best to cook with it. This dish is inspired by the daring new flavour combinations created by the migration of people and ingredients, which are accepted and celebrated with love. The complexity of fermented bean paste pairs incredibly well with earthy lamb, taking the roll of ‘spicing’. Laced with a tart sweetness that comes from the pomegranate molasses, this wildly unimaginable marriage of flavours actually creates a magic that I think is absolutely delicious. Use a needle-bladed meat tenderiser so the marinade can properly penetrate into the flesh of the meat below the surface, and massage the meat by hand to work the marinade until it is fully absorbed. The skewers definitely benefit from being cooked on a charcoal grill: the smoky flavour that comes from slowly caramelised lamb is truly wonderful.” 

Makes 12 skewers

Ingredients

• 4 lamb neck fillets, about 650g–750g (1lb 7oz–1lb 10oz)
• sea salt flakes, to season

For the marinade:

• 15g (1/2oz) garlic cloves, minced
• 2 tsp grated ginger root
• 2 tbsp soft dark brown sugar
• 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
• 2 tbsp doenjang (Korean fermented bean paste)
• 2 tbsp pomegranate molasses
• 1 tbsp soy sauce
• 1 tbsp cider vinegar
• 1 tsp freshly cracked black pepper

Method

Combine all the ingredients for the marinade in a large mixing bowl.

Slice the lamb neck fillets in half lengthways, then dice into 2cm (3/4in) thick bite-size pieces suitable for your choice of skewers, bearing in mind they’ll shrink a little when cooked.

Using a needle-bladed meat tenderiser, go over the diced lamb so the needles penetrate into the meat: it will help the marinade to permeate the tissue more deeply. Transfer the meat to the bowl of marinade and vigorously massage everything together to properly work the marinade into the meat. When the meat appears to have absorbed the

marinade, cover and refrigerate for 4 hours or up to overnight.

Thread the marinated lamb onto the skewers (about 5 cubes each), making sure they are fairly tightly secured and flattened gently by hand as you go along to ensure an even cooking surface. Repeat the process until you have about 12 skewers.

If cooking on an outdoor charcoal barbecue grill, cook the skewers on the hot grill when the layer of white ash is visible over the glowing embers. I like to give them a quarter turn every so often to char them evenly. It should take about 6 minutes for the lamb to cook through and appear beautifully charred and caramelised.

If you are cooking the skewers indoors, heat a griddle pan nice and hot over a medium heat. Place the skewers onto the hot griddle and cook for 3 minutes on each side until nicely caramelised. Alternatively, cook them under the oven grill (broiler).

When the skewers are done, sprinkle with a little pinch of sea salt flakes and serve immediately.

Su says: “Deeply umami-rich doenjang (Korean fermented soybean paste) gives this dish a wonderfully earthy depth, while odds and ends of vegetables provide a gentle background sweetness. It’s a humble and honest dish, which perfectly demonstrates the frugal nature of Korean home cooking.

Transitioning fluidly from season to season, in summer, tender courgettes and early green chillies take centre stage. Courgettes are softened just enough to provide the stew with a delicate sweetness and lightness, while young peppery green chillies add a contrasting fresh bite. Autumn is for warmth: the glut of earthy mushrooms or sweet squash will do a fine job, taking the stew into the richer side, especially with the addition of meat protein, if you like. I particularly enjoy thinly sliced bavette steak, which can be sautéed in a little sesame oil before adding the stock, or wonderfully sweet and salty clams added towards the end of cooking to bring briny umami. And as we enter a long, cold winter, we rely on the heartier root vegetables that are in abundance until the warmth of spring gently breaks the earth to bring wild foraged bitter greens and peppery leaves to revitalise our sleepy palates. Cooking the onions and potatoes first allows the stock to take on a subtle sweetness; starch from the potatoes will help to thicken the stew slightly too. Add the courgettes and mushrooms later as they require less cooking time. If you’re using different vegetables, do keep this in mind and adjust the order accordingly.”

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1⁄2 onion, diced
• 150g (5oz) potatoes, cut into bite-size chunks
• 900ml (32fl oz/33/4 cups) stock of your choice
• 3 garlic cloves, minced
• 3 tbsp doenjang (Korean fermented bean paste)
• 2 tsp gochujang (Korean red chilli paste)
• 1 tsp gochugaru (Korean red pepper flakes)
• 200g (7oz) courgettes (zucchini), quartered and cut into bite-size chunks
• 200g (7oz) tofu, cut into bite-size cubes
• 75g (1/2oz) mushrooms (shimeji, enoki or shiitake)
• sea salt flakes, to taste
• 2 mild or hot green chillies, sliced
• 2 spring onions (scallions), sliced

Method

Put the onions and potatoes into a lidded, heavy-based saucepan, along with the stock. Put the lid on ajar and bring the stock up to a gentle simmer, then cook for 10 minutes over a low heat until the onions are soft and the potatoes are almost cooked through.

Add the garlic and stir in the doenjang, gochujang and gochugaru. Add the courgettes and tofu. If the mushrooms need cooking for longer than a few minutes, add them now. Enoki mushrooms can be added right at the end, as they only need a minute or two to cook.

Increase the heat to medium so you can see the stock bubbling. Simmer for 15 minutes, or until the tofu has absorbed the flavour and the courgettes have softened. Check for seasoning and adjust it with a pinch more salt, if necessary. Add the green chillies and most of the spring onions. Cook for a further 2 minutes.

Divide the stew into four bowls. Top with the reserved spring onion and serve immediately while steaming hot, with steamed rice.

The Rice Table by Su Scott (£27, Quadrille) is out 30 March