Andy says: “Fried cheese is one of life’s greatest pleasures, and having experienced many of them, I feel confident saying so. Halloumi, usually a mixture of sheep’s and goat’s milk, is one of the rare cheeses that can be seared. It gets a deep golden, crackly crust. It oozes, spreads, and loses form. Delicious. It’s also incredibly salty. To tame the salt, I add red pepper flakes and honey. The chives are extra, but I am who I am. Eat it while it’s hot, as halloumi can get squeaky and rubbery as it sits (I’ll still eat it).”

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 2 tsp toasted sesame seeds 
• ½ tsp red pepper flakes
• Flaky sea salt
• ½ lemon
• 3 tbsp runny honey
• 2 8oz (approx. 227g) packages halloumi cheese
• 3 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
• 1 tbsp finely chopped chives (optional)

Method

In a mortar and pestle, crush the sesame seeds until some of them look powdery; or finely chop them. Scoop them into a small bowl and mix in the red pepper flakes and a pinch of salt. Using a Microplane, finely grate the zest from the lemon half over the bowl.

Use your fingers to mix everything together, making sure the zest is evenly distributed and isn’t clumpy. Set aside. Squeeze the juice from the lemon half into another small bowl, catching any seeds with your other hand, and then stir in the honey. Set aside.

Halve each piece of halloumi on a diagonal. Working with one piece at time, place the halloumi, cut-side down, on a cutting board and slice it lengthwise into triangular planks to make eight pieces total. Pat dry with paper towels to remove any excess moisture, so the pieces will brown nicely.

Pour the olive oil into a cast-iron or nonstick skillet and place it over medium-high heat for about 1 minute, until hot. Lay the halloumi pieces in the oil and cook, pressing down using a metal spatula to make sure the cheese is browning evenly on the bottom. The oil may pop, but don’t be afraid. Sear the halloumi, giving each piece a turn halfway through cooking, until deeply golden brown and crisp around the edges, about 4 minutes on each side.

Transfer the halloumi to a serving plate and pour on the lemony honey while the cheese is still hot. Sprinkle the spicy sesame salt and chives over the halloumi. Drizzle with a little olive oil and serve.

Andy says: “When I think about the dishes that have stuck with me for most of my life, kuku is at the top. You’ll see other kukus made with potato and scented with saffron and black pepper, a sweet version made with dates and rose petals that is typically eaten for breakfast with bitter bergamot tea, and one made with zucchini and turmeric. To me, kuku sabzi reigns supreme. Packed with an intimidating amount of herbs, it was one of the first Iranian dishes that I learned to cook when I was a preteen. The dish varies depending on which Iranian household you’re in. I take a less-is-more approach with my kuku, letting the herbs be the star. Wash the herbs in batches. If you wash them all at once, you might end up with sand and dirt in your kuku.”

Serves 6

Ingredients

• 3 bunches coriander
• 3 bunches parsley
• 2 bunches dill
• 2 bunches scallions, thinly sliced
• 1 tbsp dried fenugreek leaves
• 1½ tsp kosher salt
• 1 tsp freshly ground pepper
• 1 tsp baking powder
• ¾ tsp ground turmeric
• 5 eggs
• ¼ cup neutral oil (such as grapeseed) or extra-virgin olive oil
• Fluffy (and Crisp) Flatbread (page 111) or a nice store-bought one, warmed for serving
• Persian liteh pickles for serving
• Yogurt for serving

Method

Trim about four inches off the stems of the corinder, parsley, and dill. You want only the leaves and tender stems. Place about one-third of the herbs in a salad spinner and fill it with cold water. Agitate the herbs with your hands to get rid of any dirt, which will sink to the bottom of the spinner bowl. Lift the basket from the bowl of the salad spinner and dump out the water. Repeat this process until the water is clear, then spin dry and transfer the washed herbs to a large cutting board. Repeat with the remaining herbs.

Grab a large fistful of the herbs and, using your sharpest knife, finely chop. Repeat until you have chopped your whole mountain of washed herbs. You will have about four and a half cups.

Transfer the chopped herbs to a large bowl and add the scallions. Using your fingertips, pinch and grind the fenugreek, sprinkling it over the herb mixture. This really helps bring out the fenugreek’s sweet smell and taste. Add the salt, pepper, baking powder, and turmeric. One at a time, crack the eggs into the bowl. Use a fork to break the yolks and then fully incorporate the eggs with the herb mixture. It may seem like not enough eggs, but you want just enough to bind the mixture. The batter should be very green and the consistency should be light and airy.

Place an oven rack in the top position and preheat the broiler.

Pour the neutral oil into a 10-inch nonstick skillet and place it over medium heat. When the oil begins to shimmer, give the kuku batter a final mix and then scrape it into the skillet. Using a spatula, spread the batter to the sides of the skillet. Cover and cook, rotating the skillet to ensure it cooks evenly, until the bottom has set and darkened to a very dark green, almost brown, color, 8 to 10 minutes.

Remove the skillet from the heat and remove the lid. The top of the kuku will still be a touch wet but very green. Transfer the skillet to the oven and broil, watching carefully (each broiler’s strength is different), until the top is set, about 1 minute. Remove from the oven and slide the kuku onto a platter or cutting board. Slice and serve with flatbread and pickles and yogurt spooned over the top.

Andy says: “I developed a habit of eating the entire shrimp when I was a kid. I don’t mean sucking on the heads. I put whole shrimp in my mouth, shell and everything, and let my body absorb it. If that’s too much for you, tear these shrimp apart, lick your fingers, and get messy with someone you love who’ll never judge you. Don’t even bring out the cutlery. Remove the head, slurp away, and get that concentrated sweet shrimp flavor. Then eat the body. This intensely garlicky, spicy, and sweet marinade will truly make anything delicious. Boneless, skinless chicken thighs for the grill. Pork chops. Smothered on cauliflower and roasted. But it’s particularly good with shrimp, the sweetest meat you can have. Shrimp can take this sticky-spicy sauce like a champ. The marinade is aggressive but, when it cooks down in the hot pan, it mellows the raw flavor of the garlic and chili. Have plenty of beer on ice when you serve this one.”

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 4 Fresno chilis, coarsely chopped
• 8 garlic cloves, smashed
• 2-inch piece ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
• ½ cup granulated sugar
• 3 tbsp fish sauce
• 2 tsp kosher salt
• ¼ cup neutral oil (such as grapeseed), plus 2 tbsp 
• 2 pounds head-on (flavour!), shell-on shrimp (or prawns)
• 3 cups basil leaves
• Lime wedges for serving
• Sliced cucumbers for serving

Method

In a blender, combine the chillis, garlic, ginger, sugar, fish sauce, salt, and ¼ cup neutral oil and blend until very smooth. Pour this marinade into a medium bowl and add the shrimp. Give the shrimp a toss and let them sit in the marinade for 15 minutes.

In a large cast-iron or nonstick skillet over medium-high heat, warm the remaining two tablespoons neutral oil. When the oil feels hot and you just start to see a wisp of smoke, use tongs to arrange the shrimp in the skillet, discarding the excess marinade. Cook the shrimp until lightly charred around the edges, two to three minutes. Flip and cook on the second side until the shrimp are pink and cooked through, another two minutes. Turn off the heat, add the basil, and toss vigorously until the basil is wilted and your mouth begins to salivate.

Transfer the shrimp to a large plate or platter. Arrange the lime wedges and cucumber slices around the edge and serve. Encourage guests to squeeze the lime over and munch on the cucumbers to offset the heat from the chili.