Credit: Mondrian
Food and Drink
Laurel’s On The Roof: a review of the Mondrian Shoreditch’s Hollywood-inspired dining hotspot
Updated 3 years ago
1 min read
Laurel’s On The Roof is the perfect antidote to the hectic world outside, Felicity Thistlethwaite writes. Scroll down for the best things on the menu and why sunset fries should be next on your list to order.
Heading up to a fancy rooftop bar when the sun is shining will never go out of fashion (thankfully). And when it comes to dining in style, the Mondrian in Shoreditch has got it wrapped up with Laurel’s On The Roof. A hop, skip and a Jacquemus bag away from Shoreditch High Street overground station, the hotel is nestled away in one of the trendiest spots in the city (nothing says east London more than a Curtain Road address, right?).
And if you go up to the rooftop today, you’re in for a big surprise. The bar-slash-restaurant makes excellent use of its fabulous space; surrounded by high-rise blocks, it’s hard not to feel like you’re in the middle of a scene from Succession. I was offered a choice of tables – inside or out – and I plumped for outside, because there’s nothing like feeling the vitamin D enter your body as you sip on a Grasshopper (also) On The Roof.
Credit: Mondrian
At first glance, the menu isn’t huge, but what it might lack in length it more than makes up for with its simplicity and enjoyable combinations. With this in mind, my friend and I ordered the tuna tostada and cod tacos to start (and share between us). The Malibu shrimp cocktail and cobb salad were strong contenders for starters, but being mindful of over-ordering we kept it simple. Next time, though…
Our food came just as we were finishing our Grasshoppers, and we moved to a table inside as the sun set. The tostada was a brilliant blend of soy and citrus, while the cod tacos were crisp and fresh – perfect with a chilled glass of Tuscan rosato.
For the main course we decided to carry on the swapsies fun, and what better way to test the mettle of a place than to judge its signature burger? So I ordered the Laurel’s cheeseburger: a 170g grass-fed beef patty with gruyere, pickled jalapēnos, rocket and fries. My friend plumped for the California lobster roll, which we’d spotted at the table next to us. It was a summery combo of lobster, avocado, cherry tomatoes, celery, lemon mayonnaise and fries. Intrigued by the sunset fries, we also grabbed a side portion of these (because you can’t have too many fries, no matter what anyone tells you).
The burger was perfect; juicy, sweet and salty, with a hit of freshness from the rocket. As burgers go, it’s up there with the best I’ve had in east London, and I’m a hardened Meat Mission aficionado. Going halves with my friend, next up was the lobster roll which, in contrast, felt almost healthy. As a mayonnaise hater, I was worried about how heavy it would be, but the addition of lemon was just *chef’s kiss*. And, you know what, sunset fries are my new favourite thing: at Laurel’s that translates to cajun fries with ranch mayo. (My friend vouches for the deliciousness of the ranch.)
If you’re into three courses, there’s a wealth of desserts on offer with the menu changing seasonally: after a mammoth two courses of the finest seafood and wine, we didn’t make it to three courses. But next time – and there truly will be a next time – I’m determined to make it to the third page of the menu.
Sitting back and watching the world go by – hotel residents relaxing by the pool in their robes, groups of friends settling into a bottle of wine – it’s hard to describe the scene as anything other than blissful. It is the perfect antidote to the busy, thriving world outside.
Book a table at Laurel’s on the Roof here.
Images: Mondrian Shoreditch
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