Gokani says: “An omelette curry is my choice of dinner when I’m looking for a late-night protein-packed meal that still satisfies my craving for spice. What I love about this curry, apart from how quick and easy it is to make (provided you’re comfortable making an omelette in the first place), is the fact that it can be made with leftover ingredients and larder staples, thus avoiding a trip to the grocery store.

The recipe below is a simplified version of what I regularly cook at home, taking into account the fact that most people don’t have all the spices and ingredients I have in my larder! The idea is simple: an omelette packed with tomatoes, onions, chillies and anything else you like, really, smothered in a rich and silky curry. Eat it with rotis, rice, toast or just by itself.”

Serves 2 or 1 very hungry individual

Ingredients

For the curry:

• 2 tbsp oil
• ¼ tsp fenugreek seeds (optional)
• 100g (3½oz) red onions (approx. 1 small onion), finely chopped
• 2 tsp minced garlic
• 1 tsp minced ginger
• ½ tsp ground turmeric
• 1½ tsp unroasted curry powder (ingredients below)
• ¾ tsp chilli powder
• 300g (10½oz) ripe tomatoes (approx. 2 large tomatoes), finely sliced
• 8–10 curry leaves
• 1 green chilli, cut lengthways
• 200ml (7fl oz) coconut milk
• 1½ tsp salt
• handful of coriander (cilantro) leaves, to garnish

For the unroasted curry powder:

Makes about 350 grams.

• 150g (51⁄2oz) coriander seeds
• 75g (21⁄2oz) cumin seeds
• 40g (11⁄2oz) fennel seeds
• 15g (1⁄2oz) fenugreek seeds
• 10g (1⁄4oz) mustard seeds
• 25g (1oz) green cardamom seeds
• 5g ( oz) cloves
• 50g (13⁄4oz) cinnamon sticks or broken pieces

For the omelette:

• 1 tbsp unsalted butter
• 80g (2¾oz) red onion (approx. 1 small onion), finely diced 
• 4 large eggs, beaten
• 100g (3½oz) ripe tomatoes (approx. 1 medium tomato), finely diced
• 2 green chillies, finely chopped
• 2 tbsp coriander, finely chopped
• 6–8 curry leaves, finely chopped
• ½ tsp salt
• ½ tsp freshly ground black pepper

Method

First, make the unroasted curry powder:

Preheat the oven to 70°C (160°F). Spread all the ingredients on a large baking sheet and place in the oven for 1 hour, shaking the tray every 20 minutes. 

Leave to cool completely and grind to a fine powder in a blender or spice grinder. Pass through a strainer and grind any remaining large pieces. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

For the omelette curry:

Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium heat. Add the fenugreek seeds, if using, and swirl for 15 seconds, then add the onion and fry until light brown, about 4–5 minutes.

Add the garlic and ginger, followed by the turmeric, curry powder and chilli powder. Cook for a minute, then add the tomatoes, curry leaves and chilli. Cook for 10–12 minutes, or until the tomatoes are jammy and there are bubbles of oil on the surface – keep stirring the mixture to ensure it doesn’t catch at the bottom.

Meanwhile, make the omelette. Heat the butter in a non-stick pan over a medium heat until it begins to foam. Add the onion and sauté until light brown and soft. Whisk the rest of the ingredients together till frothy and add to the onions. Swirl around for a few seconds until the eggs just begin to set, then carefully fold the egg into a half-moon shape with a spatula, reduce the heat and move to one side of the pan. Cook for 2–3 minutes and flip over. Cook for another 1–2 minutes and slide the omelette onto a plate.

Add the coconut milk and enough water to the curry to achieve your preferred consistency; I like it quite thick and creamy. Reduce the heat to a minimum and simmer for 3–4 minutes, then season to taste.

Gently slip the omelette into the curry and simmer for a couple of minutes, to heat through. Garnish with coriander (cilantro) leaves and fried onions sprinkled over the top.

Gokani says: “This simple yet gorgeous curry is my go-to dish when introducing people to Sri Lankan food at the restaurant, in demos or cookery classes. It’s easy and approachable, yet tastes so different from any north Indian or south-east Asian curry that you might first associate it with when reading through the ingredients.

I did a video with the team over at SORTED food for their YouTube channel in 2021 where a group of home cooks were given all the ingredients for this curry and asked to cook it intuitively, without any instructions. I later cooked my version of the curry, demonstrating how I would adapt it. The results were starkly different in look, flavour and texture. Shooting that session really put into perspective how effective this curry was to introduce a novice to Sri Lankan food – its spices, techniques and unique flavours. If you’re new to Sri Lankan food or cooking curries generally, I would highly recommend starting with this recipe.”

Serves 4

Ingredients

• 1kg (2lb 4oz) bone-in chicken thighs or drumsticks, skin removed and cut into 8–10cm (3–4in) pieces (you can use boneless thighs if you prefer, but the curry won’t be as flavourful) 
• 1 tsp ground turmeric 2 tbsp + 2 tsp roasted curry powder (recipe below)
• 2 tsp salt
• 2 tbsp ginger paste
• 2 tbsp garlic paste
• 4 tbsp coconut oil
• 250g (9oz) red onion (approx. 1 large onion), sliced
• 9cm (3½in) cinnamon stick
• 5 green cardamom pods
• 4 cloves
• 2 lemongrass sticks
• 10cm (4in) piece pandan leaf
• 12–15 curry leaves
• 1 tbsp chilli powder
• 150g (5½oz) ripe tomato (approx. 1 large tomato), sliced
• 150ml (5fl oz) fresh chicken stock
• 250ml (9fl oz) coconut milk
• 2 green chillies, halved lengthways (optional)

For the roasted curry powder:

• 25g (1oz) green cardamom seeds
• 5g ( oz) cloves
• 50g (1¾oz) cinnamon sticks or broken pieces
• 50g (1¾oz) basmati rice
• 150g (5½oz) coriander seeds
• 75g (2½oz) cumin seeds
• 50g (1¾oz) fennel seeds
• 10g (¼oz) fenugreek seeds
• 15g (½oz) black peppercorns
• 25g (1oz) curry leaves or 10g (¼oz)
• dried curry leaves
• 15g (½oz) pandan leaves or 5g ( oz) dried pandan leaves

Method

First, make the roasted curry powder:

Heat a heavy-based saucepan over a medium heat. Roast the cardamom, cloves and cinnamon in the dry pan, stirring frequently for 2–3 minutes until fragrant but being careful not to burn them.

Add the rice and continue roasting for 12–14 minutes until nutty and light brown. Roast the remaining ingredients separately for 12–14 minutes, stirring constantly, until the leaves are dry and brittle.

Leave to cool completely before grinding to a fine powder in a blender or spice grinder. Pass through a strainer and grind any remaining large pieces. Transfer to an airtight container and store in the fridge for up to 1 month.

For the red chicken curry:

Combine the chicken with ½ tsp turmeric, 2 tsp roasted curry powder, ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp each ginger and garlic paste. Mix well and leave to marinate in the fridge for at least 1 hour, or overnight.

Heat the oil in a heavy-based pan over a medium-high heat. Add the onion along with ½ tsp salt and sauté until translucent. Add the remaining ginger and garlic paste and continue frying until the raw smell is no longer present. Stir in the cinnamon, cardamom, cloves, lemongrass, pandan leaf and curry leaves. Add the chilli powder, remaining ½ tsp turmeric and remaining 2 tbsp roasted curry powder. Fry for a further 30 seconds.

Stir in the tomato and cook over a medium heat, stirring often until it softens and turns pulpy. Add the chicken and stir well to ensure it’s coated in the spices, about 3–4 minutes. Reduce the heat to medium-low, add the chicken stock, mix everything well, cover and allow to simmer for 15 minutes.

Add the coconut milk and green chillies, if using, and reduce to a simmer for another 5–7 minutes. Season with the remaining salt.

Gokani says: “Fish curries are staples in both Sri Lanka and south India. Given the proximity to the sea, many locals depend on fish for so much of their diet and livelihood. Every region and household cooks it differently and, most importantly, different fish can lend different flavours to the same curry, transforming it into something unique.

This is a recipe we developed in the early days of Hoppers Soho (back in 2015), based on a south Indian recipe. We have loved it ever since and it’s often on our menus. The addition of goraka is common in a lot of seafood recipes, and gives the curry a distinct tangy and smoky flavour.”

Serves 2

Ingredients

• 400g (14oz) white fish, cut into 100g (3½oz) steaks or fillets 
• ½ tsp salt, plus extra to taste
• 1 tsp ground turmeric
• 2 tbsp coconut oil
• 1 tsp black mustard seeds
• ½ tsp fenugreek seeds
• 10–12 curry leaves, plus a few to garnish 
• 165g (5¾oz) red onion (approx. 1 medium onion), finely sliced
• 2 tsp minced ginger
• 2 tsp minced garlic
• 1½ tsp ground coriander
• 2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
• 2 large pieces goraka
• 100g (3½oz) ripe tomatoes (approx. 1 medium tomato), finely sliced
• 250ml (9fl oz) fresh fish stock or water
• 100ml (3½fl oz) coconut milk
• 2 green chillies, halved lengthways
• (optional) chilli oil, to garnish

Method

Combine the fish pieces with ½ tsp salt and ½ tsp turmeric. Mix well, then cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Heat the coconut oil over a medium heat in a wok or saucepan. Add the mustard and fenugreek seeds. Once they splutter, stir in the curry leaves, onion, ginger and garlic. Continue to cook, stirring regularly, for 4 minutes, or until the onions are soft and translucent.

Add the ground coriander, chilli powder, remaining ½ tsp turmeric and goraka. Cook for a minute and add the tomato. Continue cooking for 5–6 minutes, adding a splash of water or stock from time to time if the sauce begins to stick to the pan.

Add the remaining fish stock or water along with the fish. Cook uncovered for 5–6 minutes over a medium-low heat. Avoid stirring the fish too much as it can break.

Add the coconut milk and green chillies and simmer gently for a further 4–5 minutes over a medium heat until the sauce thickens into a lovely silky consistency. Add more stock, water or coconut milk if you prefer the curry thinner.

Season to taste and serve immediately. Garnish with a powerful spiced chilli oil and curry leaves that have been lightly crushed.