What will come next after borecore – lashings of logos or more muted tones?

woman wearing grey suit with brown bag

Credit: (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

Fashion


What will come next after borecore – lashings of logos or more muted tones?

By Lauren Cunningham

2 years ago

4 min read

Quiet luxury, stealth wealth or the old money aesthetic are all ways to describe monogram-free fashion, and it’s making many brands more popular.


Quiet luxury, more wittily named ‘borecore’, has boomed in recent months. Stepping away from the logos and into more muted luxury labels, it focuses on high-quality fashion pieces that are almost impossible to pin down to a brand. Think black knee-high boots, a tailored pair of trousers or a beautiful blouse over bright and bold graphics and heavily patterned purchases. But despite many claiming that Sofia Richie’s now-famous fashion and HBO series Succession could be the catalyst for this simpler, stripped-back style, it was pretty popular long before being given its ‘borecore’ branding.

While Fendi is known for its interlocking F monogram, Burberry for its black and beige check and Gucci is instantly recognised through designing pieces proliferated with double Gs, fashion fans can’t seem to get enough of more minimalist luxury labels. The simplistic shoes of The Row, the logo-free bags of Bottega Veneta and the label-free leather goods of Loewe all included. 

woman wearing baby pink trousers and jumper

Credit: (Photo by Edward Berthelot/Getty Images)

As with all fashion trends, though, opinion is divided. While some say it’s clean, chic and sophisticated, others have hailed it dreary and dull. And with the recent outpouring of love for all things Barbie pink, could this mark the end of the quiet luxury look? I sat down with Hanushka Toni, founder of pre-loved luxury handbag retailer Sellier, to see what luxury fashion fans are really thinking.

“Quiet luxury or borecore has been filtering through the popular imagination in various forms for some time now,” says Toni, also referring to the look in the social media-adopted term of the “old money aesthetic”. “This look correlates with a wider trend known as ‘stealth wealth’ – subtle quality as opposed to loud opulence,” which certainly explains the love for the likes of Loewe’s pared-back puzzle bags or Khaite’s colour-blocked cardigans.

“Brands like Totême, Bottega Veneta and Loro Piana are definitely some key players leading the charge when it comes to quiet luxury,” Toni adds. “They prioritise beautifully crafted textiles with classic cuts and tailoring, which will ultimately last the test of time. The elevated and low-key styles have resonated with their target market for decades, but now, with the rise of quiet luxury, the customer base will have grown exponentially.” So really, it seems like the main appeal is quality over quantity, opting for investment pieces over short-lived trending styles. And Hanushka has an interesting idea about what may have prompted this shift.

“In many ways, this is a reaction to reality shows like Keeping Up With The Kardashians, with their more garish approach to consumption,” she shared. This sounds rather similar to the late-90s Burberry backlash, after everyone in the country, football hooligans included, seemed to be covered in the famous checks. Perhaps loud logos became so popular and synonymous with certain aesthetics that high-end fashion fans felt the need to differentiate themselves.

woman wearing white shirt and trousers

Credit: (Photo by Jeremy Moeller/Getty Images)

“At Sellier, we have noticed a significant rise in sales for stealth brands, including Khaite, Loro Piana and the Row, compared to a decline in sales for brands like Gucci, Burberry and Versace. This clearly shows how consumers are moving away from logo-heavy brands when considering making a purchase,” Toni explained. “There are some exceptions, however, especially when it comes to accessories. Symbol logos are making a splash on bags and accessories, such as the Loewe basket bag and Celine Triomphe sunglasses and belt. These are staple items for spring/summer and certainly have longevity in a wardrobe, despite being fairly logo-centric.” So, some logos seem to be able to stay, so long as they’re carefully considered.

But will this more muted approach to fashion last forever, or will we be back to loading on the logos sometime soon? Well, according to Toni, the trend will adapt to be timeless. In some spaces, like high-end streetwear, logo-laden brands still seem to thrive. And interestingly, when it comes to reselling bags or jewellery, it’s the statement pieces that make the most money as they’re few and far between. So, while we may see many a logo-less look right now, perhaps we’ll start to see them seep back through to accentuate an outfit rather than overpower it. And remember: the best thing about the quiet luxury look is nobody knows what label you’re wearing, so if your budget is more Boden than Bottega (as is ours), you can still get involved with the aesthetic. 

Images: Getty

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