I was an emo kid when I was a teen, and I never really grew out of it. But even though my alt years weren’t just a phase, I still very much need my style to be different to how it was when I was 14. I am, after all, no longer a jobless teenager.

And it seems I’m not the only elder emo out there who wants to elevate their style without leaving the edge behind. Gone are the years when there was only one way to dress like an adult: tattoos in the workplace are everywhere, and TikTok is positively riddled with outfit inspo for #AgeingEmos to help people like me make our alt style a bit more mature.

This is where the modern vamp comes in.

In cinematic history, the ‘vamp’ was synonymous with the ‘femme fatale’ — a woman who, for one reason or another, delighted in destroying others (usually the male lead). Whether she was literally drinking blood or merely draining someone’s bank account, she’s a force to be reckoned with and always looks the part. 

These days, the vamp is still as chic, glamorous and edgy as she ever was. She looks like she was born to hold a glass of ruby red wine. She’s Gabriette, she’s Morticia Addams, she’s Angelina Jolie in the 90s. She looks equally at home at a gig or a fancy dinner party, and while she wouldn’t suck your blood or destroy your life just for funsies, she probably could if she set her mind to it.

Stylist Oriona Robb says you’ll find the modern vamp “exploring vibrant night scenes, hopping between eclectic nightclubs, art galleries and hidden speakeasies” and tells me that this trend “seamlessly merges classic and modern influences, resulting in a unique and effortlessly chic style”.

She believes we’ve got designers like Alexander McQueen and Ann Demeulemeester to thank for “contributing to [this] dark renaissance”, adding: “The vamp aesthetic has transformed into a captivating blend of mystique, sophistication, and contemporary flair.”

That sounds pretty great to me, and it seems I’m not the only one.

Jenna Waller, head of fashion at Pinterest UK, says: “In our 2022 Pinterest Predicts report we coined a trend called ‘goth-aissance’, which predicted a resurgence of all things black and gothic but with a contemporary touch, so we’ve been expecting modern vampires to make a comeback for quite some time.

“Through recent search data, we’re seeing the modern vamp aesthetic continuing to grow with search increases for ‘vamp make-up’, ‘y2k goth’ and ‘gothic style’ soaring on the platform.”

J’Nae Phillips, insights editor with cultural and consumer behavioural analysts Canvas8, tells me there are lots of reasons why more goth-esque, vampy styles are a big mood these days. She explains: “Beyond the allure of dark and dramatic styles, goth fashion serves as a powerful form of self-expression and allows individuals to diverge from mainstream norms and fashion and beauty trends that are available en masse.

“The goth subculture has a rich history, influenced by music, literature and art, contributing to a sense of cultural depth and authenticity that resonates with those seeking more profound connections in their aesthetic choices. Vamp vibes can attract individuals who find solace in a non-conformist space.” 

Phillips also points out that there’s a lot of versatility in this part of the fashion world, so it can work with a broad spectrum of preferences, allowing people to “tailor their aesthetic to suit their tastes while maintaining a timeless edge”.

Fashion expert Karine Laudort says the 2020s are a particularly wonderful time to explore one’s vamp side because the aesthetic “aligns with the current cultural fascination with supernatural themes, and the celebration of individuality and self-expression through fashion”.

She adds: “The fashion landscape is diverse, allowing individuals to experiment with different styles and aesthetics. This provides modern vamps with a broad range of clothing options to express their unique personalities. Society has become more accepting of diverse and unconventional styles too. This allows individuals to embrace and celebrate their unique fashion choices without facing as much social stigma.”

And the vamp isn’t just for the grown-up alt girlies. She’s available for those who just want to dip a toe into their dark side once in a while too. So how can we all learn to embrace our inner vamp queen, whether it’s just for the night or the long haul?

Laudort says: “Modern vamps often blend traditional gothic elements with contemporary fashion trends. They may be seen wearing dark, elegant and edgy clothing. Leather jackets, sleek dresses and stylish accessories are common. The colour palette tends to be dark, with a preference for black and deep reds.” She also name-drops Morticia Addams and characters from Buffy The Vampire Slayer as pop-culture style inspirations we can look to.

Amy Smith, a fashion expert from Vendula London, says you’ll want to gravitate towards “jewel tones, leather, smoky eyes and dark lipstick, as seen in the collections of labels like The Vampire’s Wife and Vivienne Westwood.

“Followers of this trend often wear items such as slip dresses, black leather jackets or trench coats, fur coats, corsets, waistcoats, ruffled white blouses and chunky black boots,” she adds. “They also often accessorise with a multitude of silver rings and other jewellery, such as pearl or crucifix necklaces or earrings with red and purple beads or gemstones.

“The inspiration for this aesthetic can be seen in other styles such as grunge and goth, especially from the 90s, as well as being influenced by the fashion of vampire films and TV shows. For example, it could be said that the ‘modern vamp’ modernises the more traditional gothic vampire aesthetic as seen in Interview With The Vampire or Dracula.”

Meanwhile, Waller says we can look to the examples of the likes of Kourtney Kardashian, Olivia Rodrigo and Megan Fox “leaning into darker styles”, and build a wardrobe full of corsets, leather and lace. You could even pair pastels with some dark eye make-up if you wanted to really channel your inner 90s-era vampire slayer.

She adds: “From our latest trend report, we think the modern vamp will embrace going Western, mixing Americana chic with deep moody hues in 2024 as part of our Western gothic trend. Think dark cowboy boots, cow print trousers with big silver belts tying it all together. We’re seeing Gen Z particularly driving this aesthetic and making this decade their vamp era as a counter-reaction to this summer’s Barbiecore.”

As for make-up, Dominic Skinner, director of make-up artistry, and Carly Utting, national artist at Mac Cosmetics, advise: “To be in one’s vamp era is to own one’s confidence. It’s about being your absolute true authentic self and loving who that is. A vamp aesthetic is really when there’s a combination of an eye and a lip look. Both defined, both a focal point, but toning it down for the modern day. For example, a smudged eyeliner and a stained lip as opposed to a full coverage application.

“Classic colours such as Mac’s Diva and Viva Glam I are perfect, balanced with the biggest lashes you can get. Use fashion-forward eyeshadow applications such as Mac Connect in Encrypted Kryptonite. Don’t be afraid of blush; just consider adding in more structure through contour.”

Meanwhile, Robb points out that there’s a certain vibe that needs to be brought to the table too, aside from what you’re wearing.

“It’s about adopting a mindset,” she says. “Cultivate a taste for the dramatic in your wardrobe, choosing garments that radiate mystery and sophistication. Experiment with bold, dark make-up and unconventional hairstyles. Attend immersive events and explore the night scene to fully embrace the adventures of the modern vamp.”

Images: Unsplash/Getty