It’s been a while since New York Fashion Week felt truly exciting. The heritage brands of Ralph, Tommy, Carolina, Oscar and Michael naturally do Upper East Side collar popping better than most, but beyond striped rugby shirts and oversized poplin, pre-pandemic NYFW was falling a little flat.

However, this season was set to be a scorcher (and not just with the humidity) with a special Fendi show, Marni’s relocation to the big apple and Kate Spade, Coach and LaQuan promising big things (not to mention a city takeover for Vogue World – the publications 130th anniversary celebration) – New York Fashion Week was officially back.

Where London has been shrouded in solemnity, New York was bursting with energy. On the street, people opted for their boldest, brightest looks (all seemingly finished Loewe’s puffy sunglasses) there was no sidewalk that wasn’t co-opted into a catwalk as heels of all heights brought the drama. From mega catwalk moments at Proenza Schouler (be warned wet-just-walked-out-of-the-shower is very much the look for hair and makeup next season) to Tommy Hilfiger’s big return to the big apple and presentations that made us stop in our tracks – we round up the biggest talking points from the first leg of the international shows. 

Kate Spade kicked off New York Fashion Week with a presentation with an incredible view of Manhattan from the 3, World Trade Centre. Huge tufts of grass and actual rain pouring from balloon clouds brought the collection, aptly named Flowers and Showers, of bold, bright separates and the brand’s signature spots and stripes to life.

A tribute to the joys of spring – the vinyl trench coat with matching rain hat as a total highlight – standout pieces from the collection were showcased on the mega celebrity line up. Celebrity daughters Ava Phillipe (Reese Witherspoon’s actual double) and Ella Travolta looked every part the Park Avenue princess, while Rebel Wilson served up zesty yellow and Never Have I Ever star Maitreyi Ramakrishnan dressed up a classic shirt dress with statement jewellery. If you want a joyful pep in your step come SS23, look no further. 

This New York Fashion Week was the first since the US Supreme Court decision to overturn Roe vs Wade, which removed the constitutional right to a legal abortion that had been in place for nearly half a century. It was inevitable then that designers would use their collections and shows as a sartorial riposte. The most notable of these was earth-first designer Gabriela Hearst, who cast Cecile Richards, a former president of Planned Parenthood, among the “goddesses and warriors” that walked in her spring/summer 2023 show.

The women’s rights activist was also joined on the runway by teenage climate campaigner Xiye Bastida and amputee model and activist Lauren Wasser, who all wore ensembles inspired by Hearst’s muse for the season, the Greek poet Sappho. 

There is no denying fashion’s shift to a Gen Z market, and Coach with its line-up of Tik Tok’s who’s who made its intentions crystal clear. The plaster pink stage was set at the cavernous Park Avenue armoury, but before models came strutting down the catwalk in the traditional show format, creative director, Stuart Vevers wanted to set the scene. That scene being one of New York’s iconic piers – a place where young people would have traditionally hung out.

Two models ambled hand in hand down the catwalk in a romantic moment, before choreographed models behind gracefully swayed in the distance, and an Afghan hound (a real one) strolled stage left. Then it was time for the main event: the SS23 largely gender fluid collection. A series of oversized leather jackets took over the catwalk first, then came the varsity heavy pieces complete with high top trainers, finally landing on Lil Nas X as he closed the show in jelly shoes and a jelly Tabby bag. 

For the first time in three years, Tommy Hlfiger made its return to its motherland with a show that was inspired by the designer’s late friend Andy Warhol. Alongside a bevy of street-cast models, runway darling Paloma Elsesser, Julia Fox and former Interview magazine editor Bob Colacello stormed the runway at Brooklyn’s Skyline Drive-In adorned in winter-ready woolies and winter warmers. Not even the pouring rain – guests were given waterproof ponchos to wear – could keep a smile from the audience’s face, which included Kate Moss, Kourtney Kardashian and Travis Barker to name just a few. A real and true homecoming for one of America’s greats. 

You might not be familiar with the name, but Mirror Palais is the label behind some of social media’s most revered and ubiquitous clothes and this season, it made its runway debut at New York Fashion Week.

Set at the Church of Ascension, the religion-inspired collection was bookmarked by all manner of body-hugging wares, almost all of which were constructed from deadstock fabrics. The result was a white and cerebral collection that played on the brand’s founder Marcelo Gaia’s experience of growing up gay in the Church. The takeaway? There’s always light at the end of the tunnel. 

Images: Getty, brands