Copenhagen Fashion Week kicked off yesterday, showcasing new collections and trends for spring/summer 2025. Yet among the highly anticipated runway shows – particularly from the NewTalent initiative ‘one to watch’ designers: Sól Hansdóttir, Stem and Bonnetje – and displays of Scandi street style, it’s fair to suggest that female creative directors could be feeling more represented than usual. 

Female representation in senior positions in the fashion industry is incredibly low. According to the UK Fashion DEI Report from January 2024, only 39% of executive teams and 24% of power roles are occupied by women. Since then, Virginie Viard has stepped down as the creative director at Chanel, adding another high-profile loss that further fuelled conversations around fashion’s gender disparity. Yet at Copenhagen Fashion Week, they’re reading from a slightly different script.

“We don’t feel that there is a bias towards male or female designers in Copenhagen,” says Jeanette Madsen, co-creative director at Rotate. Thora Valimars, the other half of the design duo, adds: “Although many of the brands here have female designers and teams, even the team that organises the event has a strong team of women at the lead, so you feel that women are the backbone of the industry in Copenhagen.”

A quick tally of brands on schedule at Copenhagen Fashion Week this season shows that 63% are led by female creative directors, a slight drop on last year’s 66% but still, of course, significantly more than half of the total. As Rikke Baumgarten and Helle Hestehave, co-creative directors and founders of Baum und Pferdgarten, which celebrates its 25th anniversary this year, share: “Copenhagen Fashion Week is very female-driven, so we feel the support from all sides.”

However, gaining this support can seem difficult when first starting out. “As women, we are often raised with the idea that if we share options loudly, we are being difficult or disagreeable, but it’s so important to use your voice for good. Be authentic, be kind and be passionate,” says Valimars.

Adding to this notion, Cathrine Saks and Barbara Potts, co-founders and creative directors of Saks Potts, emphasise the importance of self-belief and highlight the impact of shared female support. Speaking of the current season schedule, the co-designers say: “We are super-excited for the Caro Editions show. Caroline is one of our best friends and has been a massive support for Saks Potts since the very beginning. We are very excited to follow her journey and to attend her first-ever show.”

Caro Editions isn’t the only new addition. “One thing that is unique this season is that many more up-and-coming designers are showing on the schedule, so there is a platform for new talents to shine, which is really nice to see,” notes Madsen. 

We’re certainly hoping that Copenhagen Fashion Week’s female-led workforce will spark a change and help to even out the playing field in the industry.

Images: Baum und Pferdgarten; Rotate