Keep track of the highlights from the shows, frows, parties and backstage at New York Fashion Week autumn/winter 2017...

Marc Jacobs

It was back to the ‘70s at Marc Jacobs, with the designer looking to hip-hop’s roots for his collection to close out New York Fashion Week. The show was “an acknowledgment and gesture of respect for the polish and consideration applied to fashion from a generation that will forever be the foundation of youth-culture street style,” Jacobs wrote in the show notes. Despite this, no music was played. Such was the focus on the clothes, guests were asked not to take pictures, and instead of a front row there were only two long lines of chairs facing each other, essentially forming the catwalk in the stripped back Lexington Armory.

What came next was a neutral palette of neat classic cuts with extravagant accessories and detailing. There were Kangol-style hats, gold medallion jewellery, shaggy shearling collars and chunky platforms.

Detail: Marc Jacobs

Detail: Marc Jacobs

Detail: Marc Jacobs

Ralph Lauren

Sharp, simple, silky evening gowns in soft metallic jewel tones lit up Lauren's Madison Avenue women's store setting – along with the 10,000 orchids decorating the venue.

The collection was inspired by “a nomadic spirit, an exotic sophistication contrasting pure shapes with rustic textures, shades of the desert and burnished gold,” Lauren explained in a press release. “It embodies the spirit of the woman I design for, always seeking a style that is bold and personal.”

It was also a buy-now offering after Lauren embraced the shoppable runway for his SS17 collection in September.

Thom Browne

By far the most brilliantly bonkers show of New York Fashion Week, Thom Browne gave us puffa trousers, ice-skater blade heel boots, penguin and dog shaped handbags and sequin drenched suit blazers. And that’s before you get to the Tim Burton-esque fantasy make-up.

However theatrical the overall effect, the clothes were slick, structured and wearable – though the jury’s out on navigating the daily commute in those skater boots.

Detail: Thom Browne

Beauty: Thom Browne

Marchesa

Marchesa went all in with feathers, beading, fringing and opulent velvet in a breathtaking collection inspired by Imperial China.

Detail: Marchesa

Anna Sui

Elsa Schiaparelli’s biography provided inspiration for the high drama and romance at Anna Sui, where the make-up look was ultra-fierce and hair was copied from Minnie Mouse’s double buns.

Beauty: Anna Sui

Detail: Anna Sui

Delpozo

Oversize origami shapes, rich, earthy tones and wetsuit-style tops adorned with colourful crystals made for a standout showing from creative director Josep Font.

Detail: Delpozo

Michael Kors

The supers were out in force for Michael Kors on Wednesday morning, with the designer encouraging them before the show to be “strong, powerful and sexy”. Refreshingly, the models were more diverse in body shape and ages than are usually cast for such a high-profile name. Ashley Graham became the first “plus size” figure to walk for the fashion house and both Carolyn Murphy and Amber Valetta, who are in their early forties, hit the catwalk alongside Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid and Edie Campbell.

More: Front row stars at New York Fashion Week

The clothes were tactile and tailored, emphasising curves around the hips, shoulders and waist in a classic palette of caramel, olive, gray and monochrome – with the occasional splash of mauve. Despite an apparent move away from the shoulder-robing trend so ubiquitous in 2015, Kors opened the show with British it-model Edie Campbell wearing a camel creation specially designed to hang just so.

Kors also presented an inventive ‘jumper sleeves’ detailing, found in chunky scarves and slung low around the hips on soft woollen dresses - the ideal comforter for a chilly autumn.

Michael Kors

Detail: Michael Kors

Narciso Rodriguez

Sleek, minimal and slinky with a sporty silhouette at Narciso Rodriguez.

Beauty: Brandon Maxwell

We’re suckers for an autumnal smokey eye and at Brandon Maxwell the smudge was strong, with Tom Pecheux using Mac metallics to give a rich hint of colour on the upper lids.

Beauty: Brandon Maxwell

Coach

Our three favourite things at Coach’s star-studded presentation: the floral puffa jackets, patchwork print jeans and mini coin purse necklaces.

Alice + Olivia

Romance, drama and femininity abound at the Alice+Olivia presentation, where designer Stacey Bendet was inspired by Salman Rushdie’s novel The Enchantress of Florence.

Badgley Mischka

Did someone say Oscars season?

Following a morning that began with Katharine Hepburn references, old Hollywood came to the fore again at Bagley Mischka, where brocade, beading, tulle, ruffles and lace made for a dazzling array of gowns fit for the most high-profile red carpets.

Tory Burch

A triumphant showing for Tory Burch, whose collection was influenced by Hollywood legend and sartorial trailblazer Katharine Hepburn.

“We found inspiration in the fearlessness and irreverence of Katharine Hepburn’s character in The Philadelphia Story,” Burch explained in press notes. “Her outdoor glamour combined with a confident femininity creates a modern take on the familiar style of my own roots in Philadelphia.”

Cue tailored trousers and kilt-like skirts in bright checked prints, pussy bow shirts and preppy Fair Isle print knits. Classic cream silk shirts were splashed with painterly ballet prints and vintage floral prints appeared elaborately on dresses, trousers, shirts and even shoes.

Detail: Tory Burch

Detail: Tory Burch

Detail: Tory Burch

Philipp Plein

In between the front row melee (everyone was waiting for Madonna), the night club-style setting and the drama of “hot felon” Jeremy Meeks appearing on the runway, there were some clothes. The Italian designer’s first show in New York gave us club-chic in a blaze of black, white and red, complete with thigh-high lace-up trainer boots.

Jeremy Meeks at Philipp Plein...

Oscar de la Renta

It was party time for Park Avenue princesses at Oscar de la Renta where the red carpet favourite showed its first collection under new creative directors Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia, and alongside new celebrity favourite Monse – the husband and wife duo’s own label.

There were showstopping gowns fit for a Manhattan ball and edgier, acid bright sequin numbers with a more rebellious edge for the after-parties. Candy stripe leggings were paired with eye-wateringly high stilettos and the shocking pink we saw at 3.1 Phillip Lim was repeated here, again in tailored trousers and chic outerwear.

Oscar de la Renta

3.1 Phillip Lim

Love it or hate it, you rarely “nothing” pink and fashion’s love affair with the colour was never more evident than on the runway at 3.1 Phillip Lim.

Proenza Schouler

The label’s last show in the city before heading to Paris couture week was a “celebration of New York” that presented a sleek combination of criss-cross, curves, asymmetric lines and layering in a series of polished eveningwear looks. Outerwear was oversize and with a hint of urban cool thanks to a simple black and white vertical logo detail that melded seamlessly into busier pieces.

Zimmermann

Presenting the dress we most want to see on an A-list red carpet celebrity...

Carolina Herrera

How interesting can a white shirt get? Very, if you’re as talented as Carolina Herrera.

Detail: Carolina Herrera

The eveningwear was a triumph in elegant simplicity, with bows and capes delivering maximum impact with minimum fuss.

Altuzarra

Think Lady Macbeth meets Alexa Chung at Altuzarra, where ornate Renaissance-inspired outfits, pearl-encrusted Alice bands and elbow-length gloves were finished with knee-high black, flat combat boots.

Detail: Altuzarra

Prabal Gurung

Cosy, chunky sweater dresses and sumptuous red velvet gowns hit the runway at Prabal Gurung but the real show-stealer was the finale that saw models march down the runway in political t-shirts.

Echoing the banner slogans of recent protests, Gurung highlighted women’s rights – as he has done in previous seasons – and also took aim at Donald Trump more squarely with message such as “I am an immigrant” and “Revolution has no borders.” Sarah Jessica Parker, Priyanka Chopra and Diane Kruger were among the guests watching from the front row.

Beauty notes: Prabal Gurung

Public School

Presenting the ultimate duvet coat...

The dream knot

Stylist’s Shannon Peter got the lowdown backstage at Jenny Packham...

Self-Portrait

The masters of guipure lace collaborated with Robert Clergerie for an eight-piece footwear collection.

Victoria Beckham gives us attitude

Fashion editors dodged icy puddles on a wet and rainy Sunday morning to get to the financial district for the Victoria Beckham show. The collection echoed some of the early trends we've seen so far at Fashion Week already with suiting, oversized crombies, checked blazers and midi boots all making an appearance alongside Beckham's signature slouchy knits, ribbed knit midi dresses and open back evening wear.

“It’s an attitude I want to convey - of freedom, of confidence, of power,” Beckham says of the collection. “These are all clothes I want to wear; but hopefully they’re clothes - and an attitude - other women will want for themselves, too. Strength, reality, and identity.”

David and the kids sat front and centre, alongside Anna Wintour and Suzi Menkes.

Detail: Victoria Beckham

Detail: Victoria Beckham

Detail: Victoria Beckham

Beauty notes: Victoria Beckham

Beckham takes a bow:

Alexander Wang

The Western references at Calvin Klein popped up again at Alexander Wang, but with a much darker edge – the collection was pretty much entirely black. Models including Kendall Jenner and Bella Hadid were made up with heavy black eyeliner, hair was loose and messy and there was plenty of leather, heavy boots and patterned tights. 

Detail: Alexander Wang

Backstage: Alexander Wang

Christian Siriano

Always a designer proud to promote body positivity, Christian Siriano’s show shouted “People are People” – literally from t-shirts and also from the lyrics of the Depeche Mode song of the same name that played out the show. His message came across most powerfully though in his choice of models, using many outside the standard catwalk sample size.

Tibi

‘S’ shaped buttons, funnel necks and crushed velvet mules stood out at Tibi, where designer Amy Smilovic delivered strong, simple silhouettes and tactile tailoring.

Son Jung Wang

Luxury fabrics gave a nod to the ‘80s at Son Jung Wang.

Creatures of the Wind

Beautiful silhouettes for autumn/winter 17 from designers Shane Gabier and Christopher Peters.

Beauty: Jill Stuart

It’s all about a strong lip at Jill Stuart.

Laurence and Chico

A new label on the scene that certainly knows how to grab our attention...

Lacoste

The future of the sporty label as seen through the eyes of designer Felipe Oliveira Baptista is less about casual polo shirts and tennis shoes and more about the mighty theme of space travel - with a touch of ‘90s grunge. Saturday’s show saw bare-faced models with blunt fringes glide down a Mars-like surface in shiny, tactile fabrics, planet-print hoodies and the occasional showing of lumberjack tartan.

Detail: Lacoste

Jeremy Scott

The King of Kitsch gave us the King of rock ‘n roll Elvis Presley in his most extravagant eras. There was a nod to his rebellious ‘50s black leather jackets and the oversize quiff, as well as homages to his outlandish ‘70s outfits. Gigi Hadid wore a white crystal-clad jumpsuit, while Anna Cleveland shook up the runway in a sweeping white cape emblazoned with a golden eagle. 

Other Scott supers including Elsa Hosk, Jasmine Tookes, Romee Strijd and Stella Maxwell carried cartoon Michael Jackson lunchbox bags, wore ‘Sex is cute’ logo tees and stomped in Jesus-print boots under giant fishnets. 

Detail: Jeremy Scott

Those ‘60s-style exaggerated lower lashes we saw at Thakoon were a beauty staple at Jeremy Scott, with sparsely applied fake lashes replacing the drawn-on look.

Stylist’s Shannon Peter watched make-up artist Kabuki achieve the look by mixing a soft salmon-coloured cream eyeshadow over the eyelids before cutting up Mac's #7 lashes into tiny clusters and attaching on top of the lower lashes in 3mm intervals for a wide eyed look.

"The finished look is part-flower child, part-spooky doll" he explained. Quite.

And those nails…a true pillar box red with star motifs painted in gold over them made by the inimitable Miss Pop.

Beauty notes: Approachable hair

Working on the basis that all too often, the simplest of looks are the most alluring, hair stylist Bob Recine created “approachable hair” for the models at Kate Spade.

The trick? Apply Tresemme’s Beauty Full Volume mousse on dry hair. This gives hair a chunkier texture, rather than the definition you get when it goes on wet. Even plaits were a little dishevelled thanks to the mousse and a final blast with the hairdryer. For Recine, autumn/winter 17 is about hair that’s not too ‘done’ or too perfect – great news for those of us who struggle to find the time to even get a hairbrush through our hair in the mornings. 

Kate Spade

The most tempting bag of AW17 so far has to be this tasty little number at Kate Spade...

Trend spot

Tailoring + florals – as seen at Adam Selman, VFiles and Sachin and Babi.

Calvin Klein

The most-talked about show of Friday was always going to be Calvin Klein where Raf Simons showed his debut collection as creative director since leaving Christian Dior in 2015.

Pictures: What the A-list are wearing to New York Fashion Week

Bright red, white and blue Western style suits, Americana flags and plastic-covered trenches made their way down the catwalk to the sound of David Bowie’s This Is Not America, as A-list supporters including Gwyneth Paltrow, Julianne Moore, Sarah Jessica Parker, Anna Wintour and ASAP Rocky watched from the front row.

Detail: Calvin Klein

Raf Simons takes a bow with his right-hand man, Pieter Mulier...

Front row: Calvin Klein

Thakoon

It was back to the ‘60s for beauty inspiration at Thakoon, where lower lashes were exaggerated with sweeps of kohl and gold.

Michael Costello

Seventies perms with Kate Bush make-up was the startlingly effective beauty look at Michael Costello, where the clothes were equally as dramatic. These are outfits designed for the spotlight – from a sharp-shouldered plunging sequin jumpsuit to a floor-length transparent white gown complete with visible shoulder pads and cape.

La Perla

An A-list model line-up for the high-end underwear brand on New York’s opening night, with Kendall Jenner, Naomi Campbell, Lindsey Wixson, Joan Smalls, Stella Maxwell and Jourdan Dunn showing us how to wear lingerie – supermodel style. A world away from Victoria’s Secret’s spangles, sequins and peacock feathers, the models wore coats, sharp suits and ethereal lace dresses in a romantic floral backdrop.

Creatures of Comfort

Kicking off the first day of NYFW with a pertinent statement tee...

Noon by Noor

Clean lines and simple sophistication at Noon by Noor, watched by Olivia Culpo, Alexa Chung and Leigh Lezark.

More: New York Fashion Week street style: battling the snow