For former plus-size model Sophia Tassew, working in the fashion industry wasn’t all it seemed. The smoke and mirrors of the style sphere meant that brands often overlooked certain items of clothes in her size, leading her to embrace outré accessories as a way of expressing herself.

It was precisely this predicament that led London native Tassew to establish her brand Khula, whose name means “grow” in Zulu. The premise is simple: Tassew hand makes larger-than-life earrings that are inspired by retro 70s silhouettes and the colours used in East and South African tribes, and in the label’s short two-year existence, Khula’s jaw-flirting earrings have graced some of the most lauded lobes in the fashion world.  

Indeed, following endorsements from Tracee Ellis Ross and Leomie Anderson to name just a few, Tassew has proven that accessories needn’t be demure and discreet, and instead, can benefit from being loud and proud, a sartorial conversation-starter. We caught up with south London native Tassew to chat all things Khula and her hopes for the future of the brand. 

What does an average day look like for you?

An average day for me looks like four to five hours on my laptop working on admin and constant research on how I can better the brand. It’s either that or I’m in my studio. I used to create a lot of content almost daily but I’ve pushed that onto the back burner as I really just wanted some time for myself. It became really emotionally and physically exhausting. I think I experienced burnout and I don’t want that to happen again, so I just stop things when I want to.

Do you have any daily rituals that get your creative juices flowing?

Years ago, when I worked in advertising, there was a creative director in the building who would go into the bathroom and brush his teeth when he needed ideas. He said his best ideas came to him when he wasn’t thinking about it. Plus, it tricks his body into feeling like the day has just started. I copied the same thing and it works for me. It sounds weird but I tap out when I really need to tap into my ideas.  

You were a model before. What inspired you to start Khula? What did you feel was missing from the fashion industry?

I’m a huge fan of unique statement pieces. Growing up plus-size meant that my fashion options were limited, which meant I heavily relied on accessories and jewellery. Big earrings were my saving grace most of the time and gave me a sense of belonging. My career has always been in the creative and fashion world, so it completely made sense for me to transfer all those skills into a new passion. 

Did you have any fears about starting your own brand?

Yes, I hate numbers and I’m terrible with paperwork – I can’t lie, I knew the rest would bang.  

What do you want Khula to be known for?

Building a community that isn’t exclusive and that gives back. I see what it does for people’s confidence and it makes me really happy. I want Khula to be known for being forward and unique-thinking too. I think I will have a more concrete answer this time next year, but for now I’m having fun.

Fashion is a saturated industry – how do you cut through the noise?

I have to ask myself, why am I doing this? Who is it for? I come from a background where things aren’t handed to you. Everything is built from the ground up and I use that authenticity and drive to my advantage. I’m also very aware that trends and brilliant ideas come from my people. I just trust the process and let the images and impact do the talking. It’s very hard, though. I’ve broken down in my studio multiple times and fell onto my sofa bed out of exhaustion. It’s not an easy journey, but I know it’ll pay off.

If you could go back in time and give your younger self a piece of advice, what would it be?

I’ve always been the same person. I bump into very old friends and they all tell me the classic line of how they all knew this was destined to be. Don’t get me wrong, I haven’t completely made it but they can see I’m doing what has always made me happy for a living, which is creating. I would tell younger Sophia to just keep at it. I promise you got this. Never compromise your character and be kind to everyone you meet.

What does the future for Khula hold?

A very Instagram and dog-friendly studio space with ideas that make people say, “Rah, that’s sick.” 

Images: courtesy of Khula