Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel is arguably one of the most iconic designers of all time. Her design principles, tenacity and innate understanding of fashion has had a long-lasting influence that continues to inspire the way women dress.

Now, a century since she opened her very first maison, her legacy as a designer and pioneering approach will be showcased in an immersive exhibition at the V&A Museum, opening today (16 September).

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto will showcase hallmarks of the Chanel label, including over 200 items from the little black dress to the iconic quilted bag and glass bottles of No. 5, the perfume that Marilyn Monroe once quipped was the only thing she wore to bed. 

Besides inspiring bouclé jackets, Breton T-shirts and the little black dress, Chanel left the world with a legacy of imparting wisdom. From fashion and wealth to love and life, the matriarch’s musings are blunt, always empowering and still pertinent today. 

Ahead of the V&A’s upcoming retrospective, we’ve put together a curated shopping edit and five mantras that – correctly or otherwise – are commonly attributed to Mlle Chanel. 

For Chanel, elegance resided in comfort and details, not trends. To follow suit, opt for streamlined designs that will make dressing easy. Pick daywear that is refined and pared-back, with waists dropped lower and jackets fitting looser. 

The shade black took on new meaning and was heralded by Chanel for its aesthetic sensibility as opposed to being a mark of mourning. Draw upon a minimal colour palette of neutrals and classic black and white shades, promising a polished finish to any outfit. 

There is one standout staple for Chanel – the little black dress – which we hope after this, is added to your wardrobe. In contrast to her more practical approach to day dresses, the grand dame of fashion took a bold approach to evening wear. When it comes to finding one that suits you, draw on sensuality with bias cut gowns – the draped black fabric will give opulence to the silhouette. 

The fashion pioneer championed pared-back modernity, imbuing design with an austere luxury. Sometimes that means saying ‘no’ – to that extra accessory, to passing trends or to pieces you just don’t like. 

Confidence is the best thing a woman can wear. Enough said. Thank you, Mademoiselle Chanel.

When building your wardrobe à la Gabrielle Chanel, there are a few key essentials that are bound to take centre stage – think a textured tweed jacked, a string of pearls, a little black dress.

Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, from 16 September 2023 to 25 February 2024. Presented in partnership with Palais Galliera, Fashion Museum of the City of Paris, Paris Musées. With the support of CHANEL.

Images: courtesy of V&A Press Office; Getty; brands