Home to the Italian superbrands, Milan Fashion Week has long been the main inspiration for wardrobe classics, workwear and timeless outerwear choices, whether it’s the enduring appeal of Max Mara’s camel cashmere coats, Emporio Armani’s expertly tailored trouser suits or Prada’s knee-length skirts, playful knitwear and unexpected silhouettes. 

Last week, designers showed their autumn/winter 2o24 collections in Milan, and with even more excellent tailoring than usual on display, they’ve given us major workwear inspiration for the new season. Here are some of our favourite collections.

Max Mara, as always, offered a masterclass in sophisticated, classic and timeless tailoring. For autumn/winter we saw a darker palette than usual, with deep ink navy tailoring styled with jet black and smoky grey, punctuated with some neutral looks. Inspired by the Japanese ovoid silhouette of the 1910s, coats came with kimono sleeves or blousing at the back in the manner of a bomber jacket; others were knitted and felted – a hybrid between a coat and a cardigan. Trousers were immaculately tailored and roomy and wrap skirts that skimmed the ankles were all styled with belts that nod to the Japanese obi belt. Masculine classics, including tweed overcoats and house classics like the Teddy coat and collarless cashmere coats, were elegant and floor-grazing in length – the perfect partner to expertly tailored skirts and trousers. Handbags completed the looks: simple and leather with clasp details, worn as clutches or top-handle styles.

At Fendi, Kim Jones was inspired by sketches from the 1980s archives, British elegance and the way the Fendi family dresses – in particular a very chic utilitarian suit that Silvia Venturini Fendi wore when the pair first met. The collection was a mixture of feminine suiting with a more rounded silhouette, deconstructed knitwear, silk and organza separates styled with tailored trousers, layered wool coats and utilitarian dresses in a rich palette of navy, khaki, teal, beige, indigo and dark purple.

Handbags mirrored the utilitarian influences with leather versions of the Peekaboo, Baguette and By The Way bags. A new soft satchel, Simply Fendi, was also debuted.

Tod’s has always epitomised the essence of Italian style – timeless elegance, relaxed formality, beautiful quality and sophisticated craftsmanship – but for his debut collection, creative director Matteo Tamburini signalled an exciting new chapter for the brand. The collection centred around sophisticated wardrobe essentials, from masculine overcoats to tailored wool suits with cigarette trousers featuring large turn-ups and collarless or single-breasted jackets. We saw shirts worn under shirts, styled with immaculately tailored camel trousers, sweater vests and large leather clutch bags. There were sharp-shouldered jackets and coats, single-breasted blazers and oversized trench coats in the chicest palette of neutrals, grey and black with some pieces in tomato, burgundy or blue. Tod’s Di bag was also reinterpreted for autumn – oversized, in soft leather with inverted handles on either side and saddlery stitching.

Gucci showed masculine tailored wool outerwear with hidden buttoning on the back, alongside bombers, peacoats and leather jackets styled in offbeat colour combinations and alongside a new handbag shape. The new bag is a top-handle style with a flat, perforated logo that reveals what lies beneath. To finish, horse-riding boots, horsebit loafers and cat-eye sunglasses.

At Ermanno Scervino, heritage menswear fabrics, including pinstripes and grisaille wool, were plied into exquisite tailoring with hidden elaborate constructions, from the hourglass to drop-shoulder herringbone overcoats. Gunmetal grey suits came with roomy tailored trousers and shrunken blazers.

Emporio Armani showed a palette of mid to dark blues, black, turquoise and soft grey on wool tailoring for daytime and velvet, satin and technical silks for evening. Highlights included neat tailored suits worn with elegant silk and sheer tops, a tomato red leather jacket, loose tailored trousers, cropped leather jackets, oversized blazers and long, immaculately tailored overcoats. It’s a dream autumn wardrobe.

Main image (L-R): Tods, Ermanno Scervino, Bally, Tods, Fendi

Additional images: courtesy of brands