I love shoes. And while I use them as the finishing touch to an outfit, rather than the starting point, they are crucial in nailing a killer look. Trainers are my go-to and my current obsession is an Adidas Gazelle indoor shoe – the turquoise colour way, with highlighter-bright stripes. I also love my Birkenstocks – classic suede Arizonas for me – and a chunky multi-strap sandal.

And yet, despite loving shoes, I haven’t really thought about a buying a proper pair for a while. Actual shoe shoes, something with a closed toe and a non-cushioned sole. It started with the resurgence of ballet pumps: I flirted with the idea of buying some, added the perfect pair of mesh pumps to basket, and then pondered over them long enough to watch them sell out. (Loeffler Randall’s Leonie in case you were wondering.) 

Now, as the new season sets in, I can’t stop thinking about Mary Janes. The shoe I like to think of as an autumn-appropriate ballet pump. It has a slightly sturdier sole and a more substantial upper. It’s still elegantly feminine, but with a smarter edge. One crucial detail for me is they must be flat. I gave up heels years ago, and the flat element is part of what makes the Mary Jane an easy, cool throw on, rather than something stuffier and more laboured.  

And I’m not the only one who has noticed. The ultimate brand for understated cool, The Row, has a perfect pair in black suede. At £1,070, I won’t be buying them anytime soon, but they’re on my wish list regardless. Molly Goddard sent bold studded versions down her autumn/winter 2023 catwalk. Ayo Edebiri and Dakota Fanning have both been spotted wearing them, as has the inimitable Alexa Chung.

Chung’s pairing of a zebra print pair with a boyish striped shirt, low-cut jeans and a chill basket bag is a master class in sartorial insouciance. The girlish edge of the Mary Jane is perfectly offset by these pared-down basics. An oversized shirt and wide-leg trouser are my current style obsession, so I feel like the addition of an elegant Mary Jane is exactly what my wardrobe is crying out for.

This shoe says autumn/winter 2023 in an instant. So, if you’re mentally ready for the new season, but without the funds or inclination for a wardrobe overhaul, my advice is that a new pair of shoes can make a big difference.

Here’s my edit of the key pieces you should be keeping an eye on and how to style them. I‘ll definitely be hitting the ‘buy now’ button… I won’t be making the same shopping mistake twice.  

Add To Basket is a new franchise from Stylist, headed up by our fashion director, Lucy Reber. Every two weeks, she’ll zone in on the piece you should be buying and why it’s going to elevate your wardrobe in an instant. Follow her for more style advice @le_reber.

Images: Victoria Adamson; Getty; courtesy of brands