Age old remedies have been the failsafe options for breakouts, inflammation and increasing hydration. From turmeric to black soap they’re still as effective as ever. But, the ingredient that benefits those with oily skin the most? Witch hazel.

The plant-based skincare ingredient is synonymous with astringent face toners and twist-up blemish sticks but its powers extend beyond spot-fighting for teenage skin. Witch hazel is known to banish excess oil, prevent ingrown hairs, quell redness from sunburn, soothe insect bites, minimise pores and even blitz puffiness under the eyes.

No wonder it stars in everything from after-suns and scalp treatments to face washes and make-up primers. One particular product – the US-only Thayers Original Witch Hazel Alcohol-Free Toner – is a secret weapon for the likes of model Behati Prinsloo and singer-actor Zendaya.

And while the ingredient has previously had a rep for being drying, the latest formulations pair it with goodies like hydrating hyaluronic acid, nourishing aloe vera and soothing rosewater.

But could it really be the secret to clearer, calmer, more balanced skin, and kick tried and trusted acne-busters like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide to the kerb? Paula’s Choice founder Paula Begoun, renowned for her encyclopaedic knowledge of skincare ingredients, believes otherwise.

“There is mixed research into witch hazel. It can indeed act as a short-term remedy for some things such as quickly de-greasing oily skin. It’s also been shown to ease discomfort from bug bites and stings, haemorrhoids, bruises, nappy rash (when used as an ointment, not toner) and poison oak and poison ivy rashes. But long-term use can cause problems,” Begoun explains.

Here, we take a closer look at the famed spot weapon and reveal whether it’s really worth making space in your skincare routine for.

What is witch hazel?

The ingredient comes from the Hamamelis virginiana – a plant with fragrant yellow flowers found in North America and Asia. Dubbed a ‘magic water’, the liquid is typically made by boiling up the bark and leaves then distilling the mixture.

It has been used for centuries in traditional medicine to heal swelling and bruises. 

What is witch hazel used for?

You’ll find witch hazel sold in all kinds of forms. There are witch hazel gels and ointments that pair it with glycerin for a comforting creamy texture. It’s hugely popular in toners – either as a pure liquid or as part of a targeted skin treatment.

Since it’s often hailed as a cure for spots (more on that below) you’ll also find it in many blemish-zapping skincare lines within face washes, spot creams or quick cleansing pads or face wipes.

What are the benefits of witch hazel in your skincare routine?

The most significant benefit of witch hazel is its ability to reduce excess oil. A quick swipe will immediately – albeit temporarily – stop greasiness in its tracks. As a result, enlarged pores can also appear smaller.

Since spots can be caused by excess oil mixing with bacteria, this can in turn help prevent further blemishes from forming to some extent. Those same astringent powers also make it useful for combating an oily scalp, tackling dandruff or limp, greasy locks. They also work to minimise puffiness caused by fluid retention under the eyes.

Can witch hazel be used for all skin types? 

Very oily skin will benefit most from the de-greasing benefits of witch hazel which is why it’s especially common in products aimed at teenage skin, when oil production tends to be sky-high. There aren’t any issues when it comes to mixing it with other skincare ingredients and you don’t have to worry about sun exposure as it won’t make skin more sun-sensitive in the way retinol can.

Witch hazel doesn’t have any known side effects although it can be drying if used excessively.

“The oil-reducing effect comes from the ‘tannins’ in witch hazel but these can be very sensitising for skin. This is worsened by the fact almost all types of witch hazel are distilled using denatured alcohol (ethanol) which can damage the skin’s protective barrier making it more prone to dryness and irritation,” warns Begoun, who advises dry, sensitive or rosacea-suffering complexions to steer clear, in particular.

When and how often should witch hazel be used?

Think of witch hazel as a temporary speedy fix rather than a long-term solution to skin problems. If you’ve suffered an insect bite, a dab will quickly ease itching. Sunburn? It can help tone down the redness and lend a cooling effect. If it’s your time of the month and you’re feeling extra oily, it can be helpful to use pre-make-up.

But opt for alcohol-free formulas, making a beeline for those loaded with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, aloe vera and rosewater that will go some way to counteracting any drying effects.

Does witch hazel help with acne scarring and spots?

Witch hazel’s oil-blitzing abilities often lead to it being touted as a saviour for acne sufferers. Since these skin types are often plagued by an oil slick feeling, it can seem like a satisfying solution. But witch hazel won’t directly treat the cause of acne or clogged pores. “For that, proven ingredients like salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide are the gold-standard and have years of research behind them. In fact, witch hazel can actually make blemishes worse in the long-term by causing irritation,” says Begoun.

Witch hazel won’t improve the texture and tone of your skin, either. If it’s post-inflammatory marks you’re looking to treat, opt for retinoids instead. Avene TriAcneal Expert, £23, gets dermatologists’ seal of approval. For deeper pitted scars, in-clinic micro needling works well.

Other expert-approved acne treatments include Paula’s Choice Clear Extra Strength 2% BHA Exfoliant, £28, that uses salicylic acid to shed dead skin on the surface and deep inside the pore, reducing breakouts and blackheads. Or, choose the over-the-counter Acnecide 5% Gel, £10.49, that features 5% benzoyl peroxide to nuke acne-causing bacteria. 

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