Here’s everything you need to know about the EU’s ‘retinol ban’

uk retinol ban

Credit: Getty

Beauty


Here’s everything you need to know about the EU’s ‘retinol ban’

By Chloe Burcham

10 months ago

2 min read

New legislation means certain retinol products will be banned throughout the EU (including the UK) – here’s what you need to know…


If you’re into skincare, you might already use a retinol serum. Often referred to as the ‘gold standard’ of skincare, retinol is a potent ingredient that’s scientifically proven to reduce fine lines, pigmentation and uneven skin texture. 

But new EU legislation means that there will now be restrictions on the amount of retinol (vitamin A) allowed in our favourite skin and body care products – which could likely impact some of your favourite formulas. 

“The EU plans to restrict the maximum allowed percentages of retinol (vitamin A) and related retinoid molecules (retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate) to protect consumers from the theoretical risk of overdosing on vitamin A,” explains Dr Sam Bunting, a skincare expert and founder of Dr Sam’s. “The reasoning is that too much vitamin A can cause health issues like liver damage, and very high levels might harm the unborn foetus in pregnant women. So this measure is aimed at minimising risk to consumers using topical retinoids without professional guidance.”

Should you be concerned about using your existing retinol products?

The new legislation will cap the percentage allowed to 0.3% for pure retinol, with body lotions allowed to contain levels up to 0.05%. While the legislation is focussed on the EU, the UK is expected to follow suit. But don’t worry if your current retinol product exceeds the cap. Dr Sam Bunting thinks that the ban is “probably overkill” since we absorb relatively minimal amounts from our skincare relative to what we get from our diet. 

In a report released, the EU’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety said: “Compared to food, the contribution of vitamin A from cosmetics is lower. However it will add to the overall consumer exposure, and this may be of concern for consumers with the highest exposure (5% of the total population) to vitamin A from food and food supplements.”

It’s also worth noting that your favourite retinol product won’t be taken off the shelves immediately. Brands have been given three years in order to reformulate their existing retinol products should they wish to continue trading in Europe. Not only that, but the ban won’t actually affect the percentages allowed in prescription tretinoin either, allowing those requiring a heftier dose of vitamin A (often prescribed to reduce acne) with a controlled, doctor-led solution. 

“The fact that brands are being allowed 3 years to change their formulations is reassuring,” says Dr Bunting. “If there was real danger, faster action would likely be required.” 

Will less strong retinol products still work effectively?

“The good news is you are still likely to get noticeable benefits from retinol 0.3%, both in terms of collagen production and unclogging pores for acne prevention,” says Dr Bunting. “ For the body, there might be some merit in switching to a retinoid-like molecule such as bakuchiol, which can be used at higher percentages safely and won’t impact vitamin A levels as it has a different chemical structure.”  

Images: Getty

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