While we might be clued up on the skin benefits of hyaluronic acid, ceramides and peptides, we might’ve been sleeping on a hero ingredient that’s about to blow up in our skincare formulas. Sunflower shoot extract (often labelled in the INCI list as helianthus annuus) is a genius ingredient that essentially teaches your skin to fix itself. Studies have shown that it can strengthen fatigued and photo-damaged skin by boosting the cellular energy within the skin’s cells, repairing DNA damage.

But why is sunflower shoot extract (SSE) being heralded as the next big thing, how does it differ from sunflower oil and what are the best products that contain SSE? We spoke to skincare expert Dr Sam Bunting, who formulates many of her Dr Sam’s skincare range with the hero ingredient, to find out everything we need to know…

“Sunflower shoot extract is a concentrate derived from organic sunflower shoots, which energises skin, boosts barrier function and delays the signs of ageing,” explains Dr Sam Bunting.

“These shoots have an ultra-high level of nutrients to defend them against the environment at the most vulnerable point in their life cycle. The result is boosted NAD+ levels, reigniting cellular energy production and activating the blueprint for youthful skin.

“By harnessing sunflower shoot extract in skincare, we can create products that not only protect against external aggressors like UV, blue light and pollution, but we can also revitalise fatigued skin at the cellular level. Our cell batteries (the mitochondria) get less efficient over time – by the age of 40, NAD+ levels have dropped by 50%, so this is especially pertinent to women as they approach peri-menopause when this deficit is compounded by loss of oestrogen.”

While sunflower oil is often used within skincare formulations to moisturise and prevent water loss, SSE plays a slightly different role.

“Sunflower oil comes from the sunflower seeds whereas SSE comes from the shoots (which are weeks old), and this relates to their physical fragility at this point in their growth,” explains Dr Bunting. “The high level of phytonutrients produced at this point in their development helps protect them against herbivores and the environment, which is what makes SSE so interesting as an active ingredient boosting energy and bolstering defences.” 

From shoot to seeds, these are the 9 products to add to your basket that all harness the power of the sunflower… 

Images: Stylist Loves, courtesy of brands