Whether it’s part of a regimen you’ve spotted on TikTok or something recommended by a friend who knows all about skincare, retinol is one of the most effective ingredients you can introduce into your own routine.

However, due to its presence in results-driven yet strong formulations, it’s often considered to be a bit intimidating. But it doesn’t need to be. 

We asked skin experts to break down everything you need to know about retinol, plus all of the different types, so you can pick the one best suited to your skin type and needs.

A derivative of vitamin A, retinol (which is part of the wider retinoid family) tackles a myriad of common skin concerns and creates long-lasting benefits that stretch far beyond each use. 

In fact, retinol is one of a handful of skincare ingredients that has a marked impact on the health and appearance of our skin – the others being vitamin C and wearing SPF regularly. 

Consider this your full guide to learning about retinoids, their benefits and how to find the best retinol for your skin type. 

A powerful ingredient family, retinoids are capable of increasing the frequency of cell turnover, leaving skin clear, radiant and more even-textured. 

Retinoids work to minimise discolouration, treat hyperpigmentation, reduce fine lines, regulate sebum and oil production and improve the frequency of breakouts and pimples. The most commonly used retinoid form is retinol thanks to its wide tolerance and strength.

“Vitamin A (retinol) is one of the most effective treatments in increasing cellular turnover, exfoliating the top layers of our skin and boosting collagen production,” explains Dr Victoria Manning, co-owner of River Aesthetics.

“It lessens the shedding of dead skin cells into our pores and decreases inflammation. It is known as the gold standard in fighting acne and congested skin (blackheads/whiteheads) due to its antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

“It is also an incredible anti-ageing ingredient as it reduces fine lines, wrinkles, pigmentation, large pores and improves skin texture.”  

1. Retinol

“One of the most popular retinoid forms is retinol, known for its anti-ageing properties and skin-renewing abilities. Retinol takes two steps to convert into retinoic acid, converting first into retinaldehyde, which makes it more effective and powerful than retinyl esters,” explains Natali Kelly, the founder of her eponymous aesthetic and wellness clinic.

“Using retinol is one of the most important steps to maintaining the overall health of your skin, coming just behind regularly wearing SPF.”

2. Retinaldehyde

“Retinaldehyde is the second type of retinol. Sometimes known as ‘retinal’, it sounds similar to ‘retinol’ but is slightly different,” says Kelly.

“Retinaldehyde is the strongest retinoid you’re able to buy over the counter. This is because it only takes one step to convert into retinoic acid and become active. 

“Just like retinol, it may cause slight dryness and irritation during use as it’s more potent than retinol esters and retinol. However, it is a lot gentler than pure (prescription only) retinoic acid.”

3. Retinoic acid-esters

“A new form of retinoid, retinoic acid-esters are effective at treating a variety of skin concerns and are also much gentler on the skin,” says Kelly.

“There are two forms of retinoic acid-esters: retinyl retinoate and hydroxy pinacolone retinoate – although, these are more popularly known as granactive retinoids. 

“Unlike other forms of retinoids, retinyl retinoate converts into both retinoic acid and retinol when it interacts with the skin, meaning it offers both instant and delayed benefits as the retinol begins its two-step conversion process.”

4. Adapalene

“Adapalene is a synthetic retinoid derived from naphthoic acid that does not need to be converted to retinoic acid before it becomes active. It’s available both over the counter and in a prescription form – the few over the counter products on the market are all very reasonably priced,” explains Kelly.

“Adapalene regulates cell turnover and decreases inflammation, which is why it’s become a superstar ingredient for treating acne and considered the first treatment to hold a prescription-strength acne-fighting retinoid.

“However, out of all the prescription retinoids available, it’s considered the weakest (and therefore, gentlest). For this reason, it makes for a great entry product for anyone with sensitive or acne-prone skin.”

Retinol encourages increased cell turnover, which usually peaks during sleep. Applying retinol at night will be a more efficient use of your product and time. 

As an active ingredient, retinol should be built up over time. Overuse can cause irritation and may mean you need to press pause on using it. Instead, start by applying low percentage retinol once weekly. When you feel your skin has tolerated the product well and no adverse reactions have occurred, build up to twice weekly to a maximum of every other day. Again, when you feel your skin has responded well, this can be built up to daily usage. 

However, be cautious with higher-strength retinol formulas – revert back to your slow and steady build to avoid signs of retinol overuse.

For sensitive skin, look for a time-released retinol (Medik8 does a great one), that imparts the active ingredient slowly as you sleep. This will help avoid irritation in reactive skin. Finding a retinol infused with calming and moisturising ingredients like hyaluronic acid and ceramides will help to maintain the integrity and healthy functioning of your skin barrier, too. 

• Dryness and skin shedding
• Breakouts, blemishes and spots
• An inflamed appearance to the top layer of skin (red, pink or purple)
• Itchiness
• Burning
• Increased sensitivity to sunlight and UV rays (this is known as photosensitivity) 

According to Kelly, there are a handful of people who should avoid or practice caution using retinol:

• People with sensitive skin, rosacea or otherwise inflamed skin
• If you have sun-damaged skin as it can cause further irritation and damage
• Pregnant or breastfeeding people

Retinol increases the photosensitivity of your skin and, as such, you’ll find that your skin is much more sensitive to the effects of the sun. If you are going to use retinol (or other retinoids), wearing an SPF of at least 30 is crucial. 

Not sure about the most suitable SPF for your skin type? We’ve got you sorted with our guide to the best SPFs, according to dermatologists and skin experts. 

Images: Getty