If you haven’t already started seeing ectoin popping up in new skincare products from your favourite brands, then consider this a heads-up because trust us when we tell you that you’re about to start spotting it everywhere.

Where ingredients like hyaluronic acid, niacinamide and polyhydroxy acids were once the new kids on the block, now it’s the turn of ectoin. It’s already making a name for itself thanks to its clever ability to hold onto water, so when it’s used in the skincare space, it becomes an effective moisture magnet that helps to protect the skin barrier. And as well as being an antioxidant, ectoin also has an incredibly soothing effect.

Here, we asked Dr Justine Hextall, consultant dermatologist for La Roche-Posay, to break all of ectoin’s benefits down and explain why it’s an ingredient to watch. Here’s what she had to say…

What is ectoin?

“Ectoin is a naturally formed extremolyte found in organisms that thrive in extreme conditions, such as high temperatures, extreme cold and in places where there’s a lack of water. Essentially, it is a stress protector.”

How does ectoin work?

“Ectoin works by creating an effective shield that protects the skin barrier from environmental aggressors including cold and dry air, pollution and light exposure (but it isn’t and shouldn’t be used as a substitute for SPF). Not only does it hold onto moisture but it also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. To me, it makes perfect sense that it’s used as a skincare ingredient, simply because it’s able to create a highly effective moisture complex.”

Is ectoin effective for all skin types?

“In short, yes, all skin types will benefit from extra protection that ectoin can provide. Upp to 80% of skin ageing is now seen as a result of external aggressors including UV and pollution. And while we are getting better at wearing effective broad-spectrum SPF daily, we talk less about effective solutions for protecting skin from pollution. Also, we know that pollution works together with longer wavelengths of UV to increase damage caused to both the skin barrier and collagen, so I see this shielding ingredient as working more to help create a sealing barrier against moisture loss and the pro-inflammatory damage of pollutants entering the skin.”

Why is ectoin having a moment now?

“After years of pursuing actives to exfoliate, peel and rejuvenate skin, we are now beginning to appreciate the importance of a calm, hydrated, robust skin barrier. Ectoin is the perfect ingredient to feed into this appetite for strong, healthy skin that can withstand common aggravators, like extreme weather, UV and pollution.”

What ingredients is ectoin similar to?

“Its ability to draw moisture and seal the skin puts it into the protective and calming territories of panthenol, hyaluronic acid and ceramides; in fact, it combines well with such ingredients. It also combines some of the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties we associate with other products, like vitamin C and niacinamide among others.”

What sort of products is ectoin currently being used in?

“I am seeing it as an ingredient in both moisturising creams and lightweight serums. I also think it will increasingly be added into actives, like acids and retinoids, to allow higher concentrations to be used to increase efficacy while minimising side effects and skin barrier damage. As a dermatologist it falls perfectly into my ideal skin care routine that balances a combination of active and repairing ingredients. 

The best products with ectoin 2023

Images: Getty; courtesy of brands