If you haven’t heard of linoleic acid, don’t worry – it’s not yet among the hyped-up giants of the active ingredient world in the same way as, say, vitamin C or niacinamide.

But, thanks to its anti-inflammatory properties and its ability to hydrate without making oily skin even slicker, it should be.

What is linoleic acid and how does it work?

KLIRA Pro medical director and consultant dermatologist Dr Ellie Rashid tells Stylist: “Linoleic acid is a type of omega-6 fatty acid, a natural component found in various plant-based oils such as sunflower seed, safflower pumpkin, hemp seed and grape seed. Our skin naturally produces sebum, an oil that keeps the skin moisturised. However, an imbalance of fatty acids in sebum can lead to skin issues such as acne, inflammation and dryness. Linoleic acid helps restore this balance by incorporating itself into the skin’s lipid barrier, promoting hydration and reducing the risk of clogged pores. It is part of the intricate biochemical network that regulates inflammatory processes within the body.”

Is linoleic acid good for any particular skin types?

“Linoleic acid is suitable for all skin types,” Dr Rashid says, “but particularly beneficial for those with oily or acne-prone skin. It’s an excellent option for hydrating without causing breakouts. Linoleic acid’s anti-inflammatory properties can help soothe irritated skin and reduce redness.”

What kinds of products should people look out for containing linoleic acid?

Dr Rashid explains: “Look for those with natural and plant-based oils in their ingredient list. Sunflower oil, safflower oil and evening primrose oil are rich sources of linoleic acid. Keep an eye out for serums, moisturisers, and facial oils that highlight these ingredients.”

How long should it take before you see results from linoleic acid?

“Patience is key,” says Dr Rashid, “so allow at least four-to-six weeks to start seeing changes, and continue use for long-term benefits. Incorporating linoleic acid into your skincare routine may lead to a clearer complexion, reduced acne and a more balanced skin tone.”

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