Trying to keep up with the ever-changing world of skincare can be tough. From retinol and bakuchiol to ceramides and polyglutamic acid, skincare products seem to be full of ingredients that are tricky to understand.

The latest addition to crew? Spilanthol, an up-and-coming, plant-derived ingredient that promises great things. And while it’s often hard to separate the wheat from the chaff when it comes to skincare, spilanthol is an ingredient that’s well worth having on your radar. 

Still largely untapped by skincare brands, experts suggest that spilanthol could prove very popular, very soon, especially among those who are looking for plant-based alternatives to some of skincare’s big players. In fact, not only is it thought to possess impressive anti-inflammatory properties, there is even suggestion it could even boost the efficacy of other powerhouse skincare ingredients when applied together.

To help get to the bottom of what makes spilanthol so great, we spoke to some of skincare’s most in-the-know experts who explain what it is, what it does and how it should be used.

Without sounding too science-y and technical, spilanthol is a compound that is extracted from the paracress plant, otherwise known as acmella oleracea or spilanthes. “It is a bioactive plant-based ingredient which can be used in skincare. It is already well-known in the culinary field as its leaves and flowers have sensory properties which can be used as a spice in cooking,” explains consultant dermatologist at 55 Harley Street, Dr Anjali Mahto. Recently, spilanthol has started to find its way into skincare products too.

“Spilanthol has been used in traditional remedies across the world and has many interesting effects. The plant containing spilanthol is often called a ‘toothache plant’, as it has an analgesic, numbing effect,” says Dr Catherine Borysiewicz, consultant dermatologist at the Cadogan Clinic. 

When it comes to skincare, however, spilanthol works in a different way. “It is thought to have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects,” Dr Borysiewicz adds. Although thought to be relatively mild, the antioxidant effects can give skin a boost in helping it protect itself against the damage caused by harmful and dulling environmental aggressors, such as pollution and UV rays. 

“Some studies have suggested it might also enhance the penetration of other agents through the skin,” she adds, meaning there is reason to believe it can boost absorption of your other skincare products for better results. And as for who can use it? At the levels you are likely to find it in skincare products, experts say that all skin types can benefit from the effects of spilanthol.

While there doesn’t seem to be any irritation warnings linked to spilanthol, experts say it is worth taking any major claims with a pinch of salt. “Popular press has been known to refer to this ingredient as a ‘natural’ alternative to Botox in terms of smoothing out line and wrinkles, but there is little data to back up this claim,” says Dr Mahto.

Already being incorporated into a handful of available skincare products, spilanthol can be used anywhere in your existing routine, but you might be best off using it in the morning. “Oils, serums and moisturisers containing spilanthol can incorporated into a morning routine under sunscreen to maximise its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties,” advises Dr Mahto.

Images: Courtesy of brands