Do you often experience hormonal breakouts? Do you have oily, blemish-prone skin? Maybe you’re somebody who’s prone to random spots that pop up out of nowhere with no clear cause.

Whatever the reason, those breakouts are never not annoying – and while the skincare world is overcrowded, to say the least, there is one ingredient that skin experts and dermatologists alike will always fall back on when it comes to the treatment of acne and blemishes: salicylic acid. 

It’s probably why it’s been crowned as the top searched-for skincare ingredient of 2024, with 60,500 average searches according to new data from the digital marketing agency, Foundation. 

Sure, the thought of using an acid on your face might fill you with fear, but it really isn’t that scary. When used correctly, salicylic acid will actually work wonders when it comes to helping clear up spots and prevent future breakouts.

Here’s everything you ever needed to know about salicylic acid – plus the Stylist edit of the best products that are worthy of a place on your bathroom shelf.

Known as the gold standard ingredient for helping to prevent blemishes, it’s a BHA (beta-hydroxy acid) that’s naturally occurring in things such as willow bark. “It’s oil-soluble and can penetrate the skin with ease,” explains Daniel Isaacs, director of research at Medik8. “It’s able to soften and dissolve keratin, a protein naturally found in the skin that can block pores by causing skin cells to stick together.”

Most beneficial for oily, acne-prone skin types, salicylic acid works its way deep inside pores and dissolves sebum. “It works by breaking down any impurities that block pores whilst also exfoliating surface layers,” says skin specialist Debbie Thomas.

Salicylic acid is also part of the aspirin family, meaning it has additional benefits including mild anti-inflammatory properties, which means it’s able to help speed up the healing process of any angry, sore, red blemishes that rear their heads unexpectedly, while also helping to reduce bacteria.

“We would always strongly advise speaking with your doctor or midwife so that they can give you an accurate recommendation,” says Isaacs.

“However, we would recommend to refrain from using leave-on, high-strength exfoliating acids. BHAs in particular are ones to watch out for, as oral salicylic acid is not safe during pregnancy and therefore doctors also recommend avoiding high strength use of topical skin products containing BHAs.”

“This always depends on how your skin is and what product you are looking at,” explains Thomas. “Some products are developed for daily use, while others are recommended weekly so always follow the instructions. If you have skin that is prone to sensitivity and dryness, start out by using the product once or twice a week and build up to full use.”

Unlike some other actives, salicylic acid can be used in tandem with other ingredients. “It works perfectly in conjunction with other exfoliating AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids). Salicylic is a BHA that works to target different layers of the skin, therefore providing total exfoliation and refined texture,” explains Isaacs.

Be warned, though, as salicylic acid can be quite drying – but that can be helped by using it in combination with light hydrating ingredients. “Choose things like hyaluronic acid or lipids – for example, ceramides that will help to protect the skin’s barrier function,” adds Thomas. 

As is the case with all exfoliating acids, balance is key. “It’s very easy to sensitise the skin depending on your choice of daily AHA or BHA, therefore it is important to know your skin type and if you have sensitive skin,” says Isaacs.

It’s also important to incorporate different acids one by one, initially using them two or three times a week and slowly building up to more regular use depending on the product.

The drying effects that salicylic has can easily be mitigated, so don’t let that put you off incorporating it into your routine. Instead, just make sure you’re adding extra hydration steps into your routine. 

“Nowadays you can find it in all forms from cleansers and toners to spot gels and acne creams,” says Thomas. “For a home product, 2% is the highest strength you will find.”  

Images: Getty; courtesy of brands