An expert guide to understanding rosacea, including the causes, the best ingredients to use and treatments to try

expert guide to rosacea

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An expert guide to understanding rosacea, including the causes, the best ingredients to use and treatments to try

By Lucy Partington

26 days ago

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4 min read

Rosacea is a common – yet widely misunderstood – skin condition. Here’s what you need to know, according to a consultant dermatologist. 


Alongside other skin conditions like acne and eczema, rosacea is a very common thing – and while it’s mostly associated with having rosy cheeks, it often goes a lot deeper than that.

So, to help dispel some myths and to find out what ingredients and professional treatments exist that can help manage and lessen rosacea symptoms, we spoke to Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of Klira.

Here, she delves into the main causes of rosacea, how to differentiate between the different types, plus she explains the various at-home and prescription ingredients that can help manage the condition.

What is rosacea?

Rosacea is a very common inflammatory skin condition that can cause reddened skin, most often across the cheeks and the nose. “It’s multifactorial in its causes and also interestingly how it presents in the skin,” says Dr Craythorne. “It’s a chronic disorder that can cause a variety of skin and eye changes. It primarily affects the centre of the face, with findings such as persistent centrofacial redness, papules and pustles, flushing, telangiectasia (visible veins), redness, and sometimes skin thickening. Eye changes are typically irritation, conjunctival injection and telangiectasia.”

It’s also a condition that primarily occurs in adults over the age of 30, and is much more common in females than it is in males. While it does occasionally occur in adolescents, it can often be mistaken for acne. It can also impact all skin tones, however, Dr Craythorne explains that existing pigmentation can make rosacea harder to diagnose.

“It’s also important to note that the term ‘rosacea’ is quite broad, and so diagnosis and subsequent treatment can be different,” she says.

What are the main causes and symptoms of rosacea?

“Why people get rosacea is mainly due to genetics and – sometimes – what we inadvertently do or expose skin to,” says Dr Craythorne. While the exact cause of it is unknown, there are a few factors – including sun damage and abnormal blood vessels in the face – that could be responsible, but the current evidence isn’t certain.

In terms of symptoms, there are various triggers that, although aren’t likely to be direct causes, can make rosacea worse. These triggers include things like stress, strenuous exercise, hot drinks, alcohol, caffeine, and even certain spicy foods. 

How easy is it to get a rosacea diagnosis?

Rosacea can present itself in many different ways, and often, people will never visit a healthcare professional to get a diagnosis. And, although it’s generally considered quite common, Dr Craythorne adds “that assessment of the true prevalence of rosacea is challenging because of the variable clinical manifestations, the existence of other skin disorders with overlapping features, meaning that underdiagnosis is highly likely.”

The best ingredients to treat rosacea

“Gold standard treatments for rosacea are available,” says Dr Craythorne. “Look for azelaic acid 15%, ivermectin 1% and tretinoin 0.05%.”

However, it’s worth noting that those specific ingredients, at those specific strengths, are only available on prescription, but dermatology-led services like Klira and Dermatica are able to create personalised formulas using them, negating the need for a face-to-face appointment or consultation with a professional.

“At Klira, we like to use tretinoin, but if it’s used without the correct base formula and supporting routine, it can cause flare-ups, which is why it should be used in the right way,” says Dr Craythorne. “We have developed it so rosacea patients can use it to help improve the quality of their skin and repair sun damage, which is a cause of rosacea for a lot of people.”

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    What is the best way to treat rosacea at home?

    As well as using targeted ingredients, Dr Craythorne recommends keeping the rest of your routine fuss-free and simple. “It should involve a good moisturiser, a gentle cleanser (never foaming) and SPF,” she says.

    Dr Craythorne has also shared her top tips in managing rosacea and ways that can help limit flare ups:

    • Really try to understand your skin – think about your genetics and what your flares could be
    • Keep a flare diary for three months to see if there are specific triggers – don’t decide on a whim what a trigger is, as you will get it wrong. Be patient and keep the diary for real results
    • Wear SPF every single day, no exceptions. It improves rosacea
    • Once you have the routine that works, don’t deviate from it – skin will ebb and flow in terms of how it behaves, but don’t swap and change products too quickly – it can take at least eight weeks to see a meaningful difference
    • If topical treatments aren’t enough (decide after 12 weeks), then oral treatments might be required, and you should seek those out from a professional
    • There will be a solution, so don’t accept your skin not behaving as you need it to – we, as professionals, can help. I would recommend Klira, where a dermatologist will look at your skin and then the Klira Special best suited to the needs of your skin will be prescribed.
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    What professional treatments are best for treating rosacea?

    “The best treatment for rosacea is topical skin care using one of the ingredients mentioned above. As well as the correct topical or oral drugs, there are a couple of different procedures, including vascular laser or IPL, which work by targeting areas of redness and inflammation,” says Dr Craythorne. 

    However, she goes on to say that those treatments are best done in tandem with topical skincare for optimal results. 

    Main image: Getty

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