In 2024, skincare devotees have a collective obsession with ‘glowing’ skin and a mutual distaste for ‘shine’. And between those two points, there’s a healthy dose of irony. Why is a shiny forehead to be avoided, but we add glossy, shimmery highlighter to our cheeks? Why do we hate the oil on our noses, but put slick gel on our eyelids to create a ‘wet-look’ effect? 

According to celebrity facialist and skincare specialist Shane Cooper, while the concepts are similar, there is a key difference between oily skin and that coveted glow everybody always wants. “Glowy skin is about hydration, removing dead cells and promoting good skin health. Oily skin, on the other hand, can appear greasy and is more prone to congestion and acne,” he says.

“Therefore, I advise clients that it’s crucial to maintain hydrated but not overly oily skin. Having sebum [naturally occurring oil] on the skin is beneficial, but excess sebum can lead to breakouts.”

There’s also the annoying fact that if your wear make-up, your skin’s natural oils may cause it to slide off your face more easily. But even with that in mind, sebum isn’t all bad, and trying to eradicate oil altogether is not the answer. Celia Burton, European make-up artist for Glossier, says she personally enjoys the skin’s natural oils when she’s working.

“You would never want to strip oil from skin, as oil production keeps your skin hydrated and is a natural preserver,” she says. “You can, however, try to control the oil’s presence with primers, setting sprays and powders.”

Burton notes that “over-production of oils signifies an imbalance somewhere”. If you’re trying to strip back oils from your skin to adjust this imbalance, and you have the resources, she recommends doing this “hand in hand with a facialist or dermatologist” and advises against experimenting with “things like acids without the guidance of an expert”.

Cooper’s approach to helping his clients with their oily skin is, as you might expect, pretty involved. “I employ a variety of treatments,” he says. “This includes extraction and oxygenation, which rebalances the skin using ingredients like charcoal to draw out oiliness. This process is complemented with active ingredients that hydrate and eliminate harmful bacteria. 

“We also utilise extraction, radio frequency and mid-grade light therapy to enhance collagen production and hydration through hyaluronic acid, reducing over-oiliness and preventing breakouts.”

What all this shows is that trying to ‘fix’ oily skin can be a lengthy (and expensive) process. And because some of the leading causes of oily skin are hormonal imbalances and plain old genetics, it’s not necessarily possible to make permanent changes to your shine-prone skin. It’s important not to let your skincare goals veer into a space that centres around negative self-talk or one that’s harmful to your self-esteem. You might run a little oilier than others, and that’s just the skin you’re in – just like people with dry skin might occasionally feel frustrated by dullness. Crucially, nobody (nobody!) looks perfectly radiant all the time.

“Everyone is always going to want to look glowy, as the glow signifies health and radiance,” says Burton. “However, it should be something we pursue with our overall health and balance in mind. We are all different with different skin types, so there needs to be a level of acceptance of one’s self before we idealise someone else’s ideal, perfect skin type.”

Images: Getty