Lots of people are making the same mistakes and spending their money in the wrong places when they could be skipping some of their skincare steps, says Dr Catriona Maybury, a consultant dermatologist and medical director for Dermatica.

Because of her skin type and the hydrating products she uses in other skincare steps, Dr Maybury typically skips moisturising, saying: “I am prone to acne so don’t typically use a moisturiser.” The news that an expert in the field is skipping a skincare step that’s largely considered fundamental is quite controversial, but if you break down the consultant dermatologist’s routine, it’s not all that surprising.

She explains: “I use the Dermatica Squalane Cleanser. If I’m wearing make-up I will do a double cleanse at night. Then I put on vitamin C and SPF. I’m prone to acne so that’s enough for me; I don’t need a moisturiser. I also don’t use a moisturiser most nights unless I notice my skin is a bit dry.” She acknowledges, however, that in terms of a skincare regime, she doesn’t believe one thing works for everyone.

Skin expert Dr Rasha Rakhshani of the Dr Rasha Clinic agrees. “Skipping moisturiser is less uncommon than you might think and can be a viable option depending on your skin type and what your skin needs. I’d typically advise patients with oily or acne-prone skin to skip moisturiser and only opt to use it as and when they need it. This is because for this specific skin type, heavy or thick products can exacerbate sebum production. The overproduction of sebum is one of the main causes of acne, so using a moisturiser can lead to more breakouts.”

Dr Rakhshani adds: “For patients with sensitive skin, overuse of moisturisers can also disrupt the skin’s natural barrier function. Our skin is naturally designed to provide protection against UV radiation, heat and toxins by using a tight balance of water, lipids and proteins. Moisturisers tend to disrupt this resulting in an over-saturated layer, making it less effective as a barrier and causing irritation as a result.”

Some of the most common complaints Dr Maybury sees in clinic are as a result of people using too many products or having too many steps in their skincare routine, she explains. “In my job, I’ve seen thousands of people over the years, and when I listen to them, I notice that they use too many products and products that are too harsh. Scrubs, toners and flannels can all damage the skin barrier and cause inflammation.”

In terms of non-negotiable steps, Dr Maybury recommends cleansing, using an antioxidant and applying daily SPF. In addition, she uses a prescription retinoid every other day.

Dr Maybury regularly recommends gentle cleansers to clients and believes that the impact of a gentle cleanser over something harsher is not to be underestimated, in addition to which we shouldn’t be cleansing more than once or twice a day. “There was a really good study done by a French dermatologist looking at people with acne who used harsh exfoliating cleansers and a group that used a gentle cleanser. The group that used the harsh cleansers had disruped microbiomes and their skin was more inflamed and took longer to resolve. There isn’t a lot of data about the frequency of cleansing, but there’s data to show you shouldn’t cleanse more than twice a day. Some people cleanse three, four, sometimes five times a day. One or two is fine.

“We spent a long time developing the Dermatica Balancing Glycerin Gel Cleanser according to NICE guidelines for acne, so it meets all of those requirements – not fragranced etc – which not many people are aware of. The Dermatica Caring Squalane Cream Cleanser is also excellent for rosacea, where the aim is not to irritate skin or break down the skin barrier further.”

Two other top rated cleansers that are staple’s in many dermatologists and skin experts routines are CeraVe’s Hydrating Cleanser and the Cetaphil Gentle Skin Cleanser as both are gentle but very effective.

While cleansing is an essential skincare step, Dr Maybury doesn’t recommend spending big money on cleansers. Her rationale is that the impact of something only on your skin for 30-60 seconds is limited. She says: “The impact of cleansing your skin is less than the impact of a serum, an SPF or a moisturiser. The benefit or detriment is brief. People spending a hundred pounds on something that touches your skin for 30 seconds is ludicrous. They’re never going to brighten your skin or make you look younger. If you’re spending a lot, it’s got to be on a leave-on product.”

One leave-on product she uses religiously is a vitamin C serum, an ingredient known to brighten skin and even skin tone. Her favourite is the new Dermatica Vitamin C 15%: Fresh Batch Ascorbic Acid, something that has already become a hero item for the brand. 

Other great vitamin C serums include beauty-editor favourite SkinCeuticals C E Ferulic Vitamin C Antioxidant Serum and Dr Sam’s radiance-boosting Flawless Vitamin C NAD+ Serum. Medik8’s C-Tetra is good for sensitive skin and CeraVe’s lightweight new Skin Renewing Vitamin C Serum is a brilliant all-rounder.

Something we know and are reminded about regularly by skin experts is that the most important step in your skincare routine is applying a daily SPF. Dr Maybury agrees: “The best thing you can do is to wear SPF every day – whether you’re protecting your skin from the sun or external stressors if you have rosacea. The Dermatica SPF is just an extremely nice lightweight good SPF50 with broad spectrum UVA.”

For those with dry or normal skin types looking for tinted options, Supergoop! Glowscreen SPF30 is a brilliant multi-tasking product; a make-up-gripping primer that leaves a dewy, glowy finish, with sun protection and major hydration, and La Roche Posay Anthelios UV 400 SPF50, with its broad-spectrum protection, is a great all-rounder.

One of the major innovations in sunscreen is the new wave of barely-there options. Garnier’s Daily UV Brightening Fluid, which is formulated with antioxidant vitamin C for free radical protection and No7’s new Future Renew SPF50, which is fast-absorbing and creates the perfect base for make-up.

Images: Getty