OK, bear with us here. We know that hydroxypinacolone retinoate is more than a mouthful to say both out loud and in your head, which is why it’s often abbreviated to HPR (it’s also known by the trade name Granactive Retinoid). However, it’s something we think is worth knowing about, whether or not you’re into skincare.

It’s no secret that vitamin A is one of the industry’s most loved, studied and proven ingredients, but it’s also one that a lot of people are still wary of using.

Vitamin A is effective at accelerating skin cell turnover which, over time, smooths fine lines, enhances skin texture and helps to correct dark spots and pigmentation.

Despite the known efficacy of vitamin A – it’s not considered the gold standard for no reason – it’s an ingredient that has to be incorporated into your routine slowly to ensure skin can acclimatise to it and, no matter how careful you are, it can also cause irritation and dryness. 

However, as Harley Street’s Dr Sam Bunting explains, HPR is here to change the game and it’s an ingredient that’s got the skin community very excited.

Here, we’ve broken down the vital, need-to-know information about HPR, then keep scrolling to discover the very best skincare products that contain it.

What is HPR?

“HPR is a next-generation retinoid that harnesses excellent efficacy – it’s the over-the-counter version of tretinoin (which is only available on prescription) and has a much-improved irritation profile compared to other older, cosmetic-grade retinoids,” explains Dr Bunting.

“It’s also got superior stability, meaning that your product will remain active while it’s sitting on your bathroom shelf. This is very important because a clinical study, which looked at 12 different cosmetic-grade retinoids, demonstrated anywhere from 0-80% decrease in the amount of retinoid actually in the bottle after six months on the shelf,” she says.

So in short, products containing HPR are able to stay active for longer, therefore will deliver the promised results until the bottle is empty, instead of slowly degrading over time.

How does HPR work?

“It can bind directly to retinoid receptors inside skin cells to switch on or alter gene expression, leading to the production of new proteins, like collagen,” says Dr Bunting. “Sounds confusing, but it essentially means the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles improves, and it can speed up cell turnover, which makes your skin more even toned, unclog pores and improve blood supply to the skin.”

Why is HPR becoming more common in skincare now?

“I think it’s because it doesn’t require a chemical reaction – known scientifically as enzymatic conversion – to be active, like other types of vitamin A do. Instead, it’s ready to go,” explains Dr Bunting. “It also doesn’t require expensive encapsulation, which are techniques used to try to prevent [retinoids] from oxidising and breaking down, thus becoming ineffective, which both retinol or retinaldehyde need.

“Additionally, HPR is more effective while also being more gentle compared to other retinoids. That makes it a brilliant starter retinoid. It can also be used with great effect on delicate areas like the eye area or neck. Retinoids are highly beneficial in those areas, but consumers often struggle to tolerate them so using HPR makes it easier,” she adds.

What skin types is HPR best for?

“I believe it’s helpful for all skin types, but it’s especially good for those with sensitive skin or those who perhaps have had negative experiences in the past with retinoids. Start with 2% HPR and allow yourself time to become tolerant to it,” advises Dr Bunting. “After three months of use, if you like the benefits, consider levelling up to 5% HPR to maximise radiance.”

The best HPR skincare products to buy

Main image: courtesy of brands