Fermentation might sound like a bit of an intimidating thing when it comes to skincare, but don’t let that frighten you off. It’s a process that can effectively supercharge your favourite active ingredients while still keeping things nice and gentle.

What is fermented skincare?

Dr Magnus Lynch, a consultant dermatologist, tells Stylist: “Fermented skincare involves the use of ingredients that have undergone fermentation, a process where microorganisms break down substances, releasing beneficial byproducts. This process may enhance the potency of skincare ingredients, making them more easily absorbed by the skin. Fermented skincare products aim to boost the production of natural enzymes, vitamins, and probiotics, which can help balance the skin’s microbiome, improve hydration and boost overall skin health. Additionally, fermented skincare may have antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.”

Klira Pro medical director Dr Ellie Rashid adds: “Throughout fermentation, the microorganisms generate substances like alpha hydroxy acids, amino acids and peptides. These ingredients can also be directly added to skincare without the need for fermentation. These ‘bioferments’ can play a role in restoring the natural balance of the skin’s microbiome, contributing to skin health.”

What skin types can fermented beauty products work for?

Dr Lynch says: “Fermented skincare is generally beneficial for all skin types due to its ability to improve overall skin health. It may be helpful for individuals with sensitive skin, as the fermentation process can make ingredients gentler and more tolerable. Additionally, fermented skincare may be beneficial for those with dry or dehydrated skin as it enhances hydration and promotes skin barrier function. The antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of fermented skincare can also benefit individuals with acne-prone skin or those seeking to improve skin texture and tone.”

Dr Dev Patel, the founder of CellDerma, explains: “Unlike with a lot of potent ingredients, there are unlikely to be any negative side effects to using fermented products, but this does depend on the entire list of ingredients. They not only work to strengthen the skin barrier, but they also minimise irritation and inflammation. They support collagen production and provide deep hydration for the skin too.”

What sort of fermented skincare products should we look for?

Dr Patel says: “Fermented ingredients can be used in almost any skincare product, but are ideally used to get the best out of ingredients that, in many cases, struggle to penetrate the skin. For example, hyaluronic acid is a fairly large molecule that the skin struggles to absorb; when fermented, the molecules break down and can be absorbed better by the skin. A few fermented ingredients to look out for on labels could be sea kelp, black soy, ginseng and olive leaf extract. I look forward to seeing more research in this field.”

How long should it take before you see results?

“The timeframe for seeing results when using fermented skincare products can vary depending on factors such as the specific product used and individual skin type concerns,” explains Dr Lynch. “However, many people report noticing improvements in their skin within a few weeks to a couple of months of consistent use. Some immediate benefits, like increased hydration or smoother texture, may be noticeable sooner, while longer-term benefits such as improved skin tone may take a bit longer to become apparent. Consistency is key, so sticking to a regular skincare routine with fermented products can maximise results over time.”

What to shop: best fermented skincare products to buy

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