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Why dermatologists love azelaic acid for treating acne, scarring and rosacea
11 months ago
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3 min read
Despite not being as common as some ingredients, azelaic acid is definitely worth swotting up on. This is what you need to know.
The list of skincare ingredients is seemingly never-ending. From salicylic acid and retinol to prickly pear and niacinamide, it can be quite overwhelming. But there’s one unsung hero that you definitely need to know about: azelaic acid.
It’s one that’s becoming increasingly popular after years of being more commonly prescribed by dermatologists, with more and more brands jumping on the bandwagon. Now, azelaic acid is finally getting the attention it deserves, so we spoke to an expert about exactly what it is, how it works and how it should be used.
What is azelaic acid?
“This naturally occurring acid is a by-product of a yeast that lives on all our skin,” explains Dr Sam Bunting, skin expert and founder of Dr Sam’s Skincare. “Specifically, it’s a dicarboxylic acid and can be found in grains such as barley.”
What skin types or concerns are best for azelaic acid?
Those who have acne, redness or rosacea will benefit most from incorporating azelaic acid into their routines.
How does azelaic acid work?
“As well as reducing inflammation in the skin, it also acts as an antibacterial and reduces the tendency for skin cells to clog up pores,” explains Bunting. “These actions combined make it incredibly helpful in treating and preventing acne. It also inhibits the action of tyrosinase, which means it reduces the tendency for skin to develop pigmentation, which makes it good for reducing post-acne marks or scars and melasma.”
At what point in a skincare routine should azelaic acid be used?
“I tend to start out in the morning, but over time – and if you enjoy the benefits – it can also be used at nighttime,” says Bunting.
Can azelaic acid be used in combination with other ingredients?
“Yes, it’s a great team player. It can be combined with retinoids, bakuchiol, niacinamide along with other things like BHAs or hyaluronic acid,” she says.
Are there any side effects of using azelaic acid?
“As with any active ingredient, if it’s initially used too enthusiastically, it can cause redness and irritation. But given that we use azelaic acid in rosacea with good effect, this happens a lot less often than with many other active ingredients,” says Bunting.
The best azelaic acid skincare products
Dr Sam’s Flawless Brightly Serum
A powerhouse combination of 10% azelaic acid, bakuchiol (the natural retinol alternative) and soothing niacinamide, this serum is designed to be applied each morning to give skin a serious glow-up.
Drunk Elephant Bouncy Brightfacial
A combination of 10% azelaic acid and 1% salicylic acid works to improve discolouration and dark spots while reducing the appearance of spots and redness for a brighter, more even complexion.
Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic
Gentle but very effective, this liquid exfoliant combines azelaic acid with lactic acid and BHAs, and it’s suitable for everyday use.
Shop Ren Ready Steady Glow Daily AHA Tonic at lookfantastic, £28
Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster
Suitable to use either alone or mixed in with your favourite moisturiser, this booster is a combination of azelaic acid, salicylic acid and plant extracts. It works to help fade brown spots caused by sun damage, as well as reducing breakouts and eliminating acne scars.
Shop Paula’s Choice 10% Azelaic Acid Booster at Paula’s Choice, £40
The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10%
This lightweight, gel-like cream is formulated with 10% azelaic acid, which works to help brighten skin while making a visible difference to its texture and reduces the appearance of blemishes.
Shop The Ordinary Azelaic Acid Suspension 10% at Boots, £11.10
Tropic Radiance Cleanser Pore-refining Cleansing Oil
This cleansing oil is designed to deep clean pores and leave your skin revitalised with the help of vitamin C.
Shop Tropic Radiance Cleanser Pore-refining Cleansing Oil, £36
Dermatica Clarifying Azelaic Acid 12% Cream
Glycerin and ceramides join forces with azelaic acid to help keep your skin clear and your barrier healthy.
Q+A Azelaic Acid Balancing Serum
This budget-friendly serum is good for all skin types except sensitive ones.
The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum
Shop The Inkey List Super Solutions 10% Azelaic Acid Serum at Cult Beauty, £16
Mantle The Treat Clearing Azelaic Acid treatment
This serum promises to stop breakouts before they even begin and deliver an even skin tone.
Shop Mantle The Treat Clearing Azelaic Acid Treatment at Selfridges, £47
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Images: Getty; courtesy of brands
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