What if retinol just… isn’t working for you? After all, not everybody’s skin is the same, and what works for one person – or even millions of people – might not be the best thing for you.

Here, we spoke to the experts about what to do if the ingredient isn’t agreeing with your skin, and what to reach for instead.

What is retinol and how does it work?

“Retinol is a form of vitamin A that is widely used in skincare for its anti-ageing properties,” says consultant dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “It works by penetrating the skin and promoting cell turnover, which helps to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Additionally, retinol stimulates collagen production, leading to firmer and smoother skin over time.”

However, not all retinoids are all they’re cracked up to be. Dr Emma Craythorne, consultant dermatologist and founder of Klira, explains: “There is a lot of confusion around different types of retinoids and what they can actually do. The gold standard retinoid is retinoic acid (tretinoin) and this has good evidence for promoting cell turnover, stimulating collagen production, fighting free radicals, unclogging pores, reducing wrinkles, promoting even skin tone and treating acne. 

“Retinol is a weaker version of retinoic acid. It doesn’t actually have particularly great evidence behind it. Most of the claims associated with retinols are overinflated, particularly in the lower strengths commonly found in many beauty products.”

Why can retinol be so harsh on skin?

“Retinol can be harsh on the skin because it accelerates cell turnover, which may lead to irritation, dryness, redness and flakiness, especially when first starting to use it or when using higher concentrations,” says Dr Phillips. “Additionally, retinol increases skin sensitivity to sunlight, so it’s essential to use SPF daily to protect the skin from UV damage and to introduce retinol gradually into your skincare routine to allow your skin to adjust.”

What can you do to repair your skin?

Founder and medical director of the Adonia Medical Clinic, Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme, says: “Firstly, stop all active ingredients. Not just retinoids, but also any alpha-hydroxide like glycolic acid or cyclic acid. Switch from a foaming cleanser to a gentle cleanser, and then use good moisturiser throughout the day. Look for ingredients like ceramide, squalane, glycerine and hyaluronic acid to help soothe the skin.”

“You could also try ‘retinol sandwiching’” says Dr Phillips, “which involves applying a moisturiser before and after applying retinol to mitigate potential irritation while still allowing the retinol to be effective. This method helps to buffer the retinol’s potency and reduce the likelihood of dryness or sensitivity.”

What actives offer similar results to retinol?

Dr Craythorne says: “Anyone should be able to benefit from a retinoid, but it has to be delivered in the right base for their skin and to start at very low levels and be built up over time. Even rosacea skin types, for example, can benefit from retinoids, but it has to be done in the right way and with dermatologist oversight. Alternatives like bakuchiol, vitamin C, peptides, hyaluronic acid, glycolic acid, niacinamide, or retinyl palmitate can be suggested as alternatives with little or no risk of side effects, but the results can’t really be compared with a good retinoid.”

Images: courtesy of brands