Whether it’s a reaction to an overzealous application of vitamin A or a rogue flare-up in response to the fragrance in a new product, if you’ve ever experienced a sudden bout of redness, dryness or sensitivity, you’ll know exactly how frustrating it can be. 

Trying to solve the problem – and work out how to best take care of your skin – can feel like a particularly tricky round of Only Connect-style puzzling. From what exactly caused the reaction to which ingredients to steer clear of and which to add to your routine, there’s a slew of questions you’ll be asking yourself. Most notably: is my skin barrier damaged or do I just have sensitive skin?

The irritation your skin may experience as a result of each might be similar, but the routines and products you’ll use to treat them are different, so it’s important to know what you’re dealing with. Here, three dermatologists explain how to work out what’s going on – and cater your routine to suit your skin scenario…

It’s a term that gets flung around the beauty world enthusiastically, but if you’ve ever wondered what it actually means for your skin, you’re not alone. “The outermost layer of the skin (the stratum corneum) acts as our skin barrier,” explains consultant dermatologist Dr Sharon Belmo (@drsharonbelmo). And, according to Dr Belmo, it plays an essential role in keeping our skin feeling comfortable. “The skin barrier prevents us from losing water from our skin and prevents harmful substances in the environment that can cause irritation, infection or allergies from entering our skin. This layer is particularly rich in lipids (fats) such as ceramides that help to keep our skin hydrated.”

“An impaired skin barrier is visibly noticeable, appearing dry, flaky, scaly, cracked or thickened, and it will also feel irritated, uncomfortable and sensitive,” says Dr Belmo. If that sounds similar to eczema and psoriasis, that’s because the skin barrier is also disrupted by these dry skin conditions.

Although sensitive skin can be caused by a damaged skin barrier, it can also be exacerbated by weather or pollution and has a slightly different set of symptoms. “Sensitive skin may not be visibly noticeable, or it can appear red. People with sensitive skin report stinging, burning, pain or itching in response to things that would (or should) not normally cause such sensations,” Belmo explains.

“An impaired skin barrier is just one reason for our skin to be sensitive. Other causes can be increased and sensitive nerve endings or a genetically thin upper layer of skin,” explains dermatologist and Aveeno partner Dr Cristina Psomadakis (@dr.somaskin). “Because the job of a skin barrier is to retain important things inside our skin, such as moisture and hydration, while also protecting things in the outside environment that can cause irritation. If the skin barrier is impaired, we are more likely to have dry skin and are more likely to be sensitive to things like exfoliants, harsh products and dust.”

According to Dr Ifeoma Ejikeme (@dr_ifeoma_ejikeme), a medical consultant, skin expert and founder of Adonia Medical Clinic, working out what causes your skin to react is key to being able to tell the difference. “Determining the triggers that lead to adverse reactions is critical in diagnosing sensitive skin,” she says. “Common culprits include fragrances, certain preservatives, sulphates and abrasive physical exfoliants. A damaged skin barrier, on the other hand, may be caused by excessive cleansing, over-exfoliation, harsh skincare products or environmental stressors [such as cold weather or pollution].”

According to Dr Ejikeme, the two skin conditions call for a similarly pared-back routine, but with specifically targeted ingredients catered to each. “For sensitive skin, I advise opting for gentle, fragrance-free formulations specifically designed for sensitive skin,” she explains. “Moisturisers containing ceramides, hyaluronic acid and niacinamide can also help the skin feel more comfortable,” says Dr Ejikeme.

“For damaged skin barrier, it is crucial to adopt a gentle approach. You should avoid aggressive cleansing techniques, opting for mild, non-foaming cleansers. Incorporating barrier-supporting ingredients such as ceramides, fatty acids and natural oils can aid in restoring and strengthening the skin’s protective barrier,” she says. TLDR: ceramides are always a good idea when it comes to sensitivity.

This article is part of Skin Freedom, a Stylist Love Women series that aims to champion the reality of women’s skin in all its glory.

Images: Getty