“Forever chemicals”(PFAS) are present in a lot of popular cosmetics, but what are they and are they safe?

PFAS chemicals, forever chemicals

Credit: Getty

Beauty


“Forever chemicals”(PFAS) are present in a lot of popular cosmetics, but what are they and are they safe?

By Morgan Fargo

3 years ago

1 min read

These chemicals accumulate rapidly in both the body and the environment and can take over 1,000 years to degrade.

Currently, there are several brands facing class-action lawsuits over the presence of undisclosed PFAS (colloquially known as “forever chemicals”) in their products. A class-action lawsuit – a phenomenon of the American legal system and not present in the EU or UK – is the name used when one party is a group rather than an individual. These lawsuits claim that PFAS have been present in beauty and skincare products marketed as “natural” or have simply been omitted from the list of ingredients. 

If you’re scratching your head wondering what a PFAS is, you’re not alone. An abbreviation (per- or poly-fluorinated alkyl substances) for a specific type of chemical compound that contains carbon, hydrogen, oxygen and fluorine, these chemicals are seen to accumulate in the body and bloodstream of humans and animals as well as in the soil and drinking water in the natural world – and it’s a global issue. 

“PFAS are often referred to as the ‘forever chemicals’ because of their extreme persistence in the environment,” states PFAS Free, a charity project run by the environmental charity Fidra. “Some forms of PFAS can take over 1,000 years to degrade. This persistence is why the actions we take today have such a huge effect on the state of our world tomorrow. A paper bag might disintegrate and slowly disappear from sight, but the chemicals left behind could be damaging the environment for thousands for [sic] years.”

What are PFAS?

“PFAS are a class of chemicals named perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances. There are reports of there being between 9,000 and 10,000 of these chemicals, but the real number is closer to 5,000. Out of these, roughly 500 are used in the cosmetic and personal care industry. This is because some PFAS are either very expensive or too toxic to be used,” says Dr Cuross Bakhtiar, director of Harley Street Cosmetics.

Why are PFAS used in make-up and beauty products?

“PFAS are used in the cosmetic industry to make active chemicals stay on the skin longer. Think, for example, about colour cosmetics – lipsticks, eyeliners, mascara, nail polish, and foundation – the consumer wants products that stay on the skin for longer and require fewer touch-ups throughout the day. PFAS do this, as well as acting as a binder to help spread the product onto the skin,” explains Dr Bakhtiar.

“The major problem with PFAS is that they are easily absorbed into the skin and body. They can also get into the food chain via water, into the soil and eventually into plants and the food we eat via the water animals drink and then we consume.”

Some forms of PFAS can take over 1,000 years to degrade

“Actual data on the effects of PFAS on humans is scarce, including in scientific journals. However, the chemicals do persist in nature. They are very hard to break down and increased use of them will coincide with increased accumulation in land and water. Hence, their name ‘forever chemicals’. Fluorinated gases are one of the causes of ozone depletion in our atmosphere and this is a major concern, too.

“At the moment, cosmetic companies in the UK and EU do not have to disclose if they are using PFAS in their products.”

How to know if a product contains PFAS

While it can be difficult to identify PFAS in cosmetics (they are not always included in the ingredient breakdown), there are a couple of best practice tips to avoid them. 

Products that are labelled “long-wear” or “waterproof” are more likely to contain these chemicals – it is because of PFAS that they are so resistant to general wear and tear and water. Any mask that “self-bubbles”, is also likely to contain PFAS – again, it is because of these chemicals that the masks have this effect.

For products that do include PFAS in the list of ingredients, look for names such as PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene), perfluorooctyl triethoxysilane, perfluorononyl dimethicone, perfluorodecalin, and perfluorohexane.

Finally, browser plugins such as Clearya can scan ingredient lists to look for these substances. Alternatively, the EWG Skin Deep cosmetics database can help to identify them too.  


Main image: Getty

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