It can feel as though there’s a new hair colour trend sweeping across our social media feeds every week, tempting us all to switch up our looks. From champagne blonde to toffee brunette, the colour options are endless. But it’s not just the shades that are gaining attention – the techniques behind them are becoming just as popular.

From the Scandi hairline to halo lights, clients are asking their hairdressers for specific dyeing techniques rather than focusing on the colour they want to achieve – and while that’s not a bad thing, it’s crucial to know exactly what these techniques entail.

Right now, it’s all about moonlights. This viral technique is grabbing attention for its seemingly carefree approach, with stylists appearing to free-paint bleach onto hair, resulting in a luminous, multi-dimensional blonde effect. But as with many things we see online, it’s not always as simple as it seems.

Moonlights are being shown as a freehand balayage technique, where hair is painted in sections to mimic the soft glow of moonlight. Unlike traditional balayage, which uses careful application and blending techniques, moonlights give the impression that the stylist is painting bleach directly onto the hair, resulting in soft, shimmering highlights.

While it looks like a quick and easy method, hairstylists are warning against how these viral videos portray the process. What seems like a spontaneous bleach application may not actually be bleach at all – and the results are unrealistic at best. 

“There are so many crossovers and techniques these days when it comes to colouring hair. The viral moonlight videos show a technique that’s very slapdash, whereas the end result shows something that’s more true to a traditional highlighting technique with foils,” explains Harriet Muldoon, hair colourist at Larry King.

At first glance, moonlights appear to be balayage’s carefree cousin, but hairstylists argue that’s not quite the case. Balayage involves strategically painting highlights onto the hair in sweeping motions to create a natural, sun-kissed effect. The process is precise, with stylists expertly deciding where to place each highlight to frame the face and add dimension.

“Moonlights appear to be a more haphazard, free-flowing take on the technique,” says Muldoon. “If you look at them closely, many of the viral moonlights videos also seem to show mousse or another foamy product being used rather than bleach.” 

Free-handing bleach in this way isn’t just impractical—it’s more likely to damage the hair and result in a disastrous dye job. 

As eye-catching as these videos are, the reality is that bleach requires careful control to prevent over-processing and damage. While it can be tempting to request a technique, it’s safer to talk to your colourist about the desired result – and let them decide which method is best. 

“The results you see from moonlights can still be achieved with more traditional methods. Your stylist can use techniques like balayage or even traditional highlights to replicate the shimmering, luminous look of moonlights without risking your hair’s health,” explains Muldoon.

When it comes to your hair, sometimes sticking with what works – and trusting your professional – is the best approach. After all, if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. 

Main image: Getty