Whether you know it or not, you’re probably familiar with Merit. Its signature sleek gold packaging and corduroy tie-up make-up bag have taken over social media feeds since it launched in the UK in 2023. In fact, I’ve never had so many DMs from friends asking for my thoughts on a brand as I have with Merit. 

With a curated range of products, it seems that ‘less is more’ is the brand’s ethos. For example, instead of launching a foundation for each skin type and a concealer to match, the brand simply has one – The Minimalist Complexion Stick – that claims to be a two-in-one formula and suits all skin types. Instead of jumping on the glittery eyeshadow palette craze, the brand has launched single pan shadows in muted 90s tones. Merit does not follow the crowd.

This is why I shouldn’t have been surprised when the brand decided to launch its first fragrance, instead of expanding its line of make-up. Merit’s first-ever perfume, Retrospect, launches today (22 October) and in true brand fashion, it doesn’t contain any of the buzzy notes that have been trending on #PerfumeTok. Instead, it aims to be the brand’s signature scent. If you want to embody Merit, spritz this. 

Inspired by vintage perfumes, the juice features notes of jasmine, rose and aldehydes (which come across as powdery and slightly zesty) to bring a sense of modern nostalgia to the wearer. Despite its airy smell, 30% of Retrospect’s formula is fragrance oil, meaning it not only has a fullness to it but also doesn’t disappear after an hour. This was in response to the brand’s survey that found 83% of customers complained that clean fragrances don’t last. Retrospect aims to prove them wrong.

Here’s a breakdown of the Retrospect Extrait de Parfum:

Top notes: bergamot, pear and aldehydes

Heart notes: jasmine, synthetic rose, rosemary, violet and orris

Base notes: vanilla, musk and moss

The Stylist team put Merit’s first-ever fragrance to the test. Keep reading to get our honest take on the scent. 

Kitty McGee, executive fashion and beauty director

“I buy into everything about Merit. Its minimal, aesthetically pleasing branding and products hit all the right notes. Retrospect comes in a beautiful, sculptural bottle that you can easily imagine being plucked from a Bottega Veneta Sardine bag at a smart dinner or during cocktails at a small, intimate bar.

“The fragrance is fresh and crisp (which comes from the pear and bergamot top notes), which makes it perfect for daytime, but it’s still strong and impactful. It’s subtle but not gentle. A perfect everyday autumn scent.”

Meena Alexander, associate editor

“This feels like a hug – it smells warm, comforting and just the right side of surprising (I think that’s the pear) without the in-your-face spiciness that some of my other autumnal scents rely on. I can see myself spritzing it over my favourite scarf and nestling in to smell it when I’m out on blustery walks. A main character fragrance, for sure.”

Charlotte Bitmead, senior beauty writer

“As someone who gravitates towards musky masculine scents or headstrong ouds, I didn’t think Retrospect would be for me. However, I’m an avid fan of the brand, so I decided to trust Merit’s vision and try a perfume with pear notes for the first time.

“The first sniff is powdery with a hint of zestiness and juicy pear that really encapsulates the vintage theme they’re going for, but the dry-down is where it gets more to my liking. It’s incredibly multi-faceted and seems to be constantly changing on the skin. After a few hours of wear, the vanilla and moss basenotes come into play and it turns dark and moody. It’s still more feminine than I’d usually go for but there’s something uniquely nostalgic about it that has me craving it for comfort.”

Images: courtesy of brand