The appeal of 2022’s ‘clean girl’, or the woman whose whole, pared-back schtick hinges on what appears to be minimal make-up and glassy hair in a tighter-than-tight bun, has long since waned.

While the clean girl aesthetic wasn’t solely responsible for our collective fascination with a largely unattainable perfection that looked ‘effortless’, what this trend implied was that the alternatives – such as bold make-up, nail art, visible pores, hair frizz and volume, for example – were somehow ‘dirty’. Well, thankfully, it seems the beauty world has had enough of that.

We’re not saying that things like shiny, slicked-back hair will suddenly be out of vogue, nor will our obsession with ‘perfect’ skin be stopped in its tracks; we’re saying that, for now, more really is more. 

Terry Barber, global creative director of make-up artistry at Mac Cosmetics, is a big proponent of maximalism taking over.

He tells Stylist: “Beauty is very eclectic again. The idea of looking done and unapologetically fierce is chic again, both in the fashion world and in everyday life. For instance, the autumn/winter 2024 shows were definitely the season of lipstick, from strict bold red to decadent deep maroon. I think [we’re seeing] a move towards a golden age of dressed-up beauty.”

So where is this maximal beauty approach coming from?

Folu Olufemi, expert make-up artist with Nyx Professional Make-up, does not mince her words when she says: “We’re bored! The overdone drinks-themed make-up trends of 2023, from ‘matcha make-up’ to ‘latte make-up’ to ‘espresso make-up’, have made many enthusiasts nostalgic for a ‘golden age’ of creativity and content creation. I wouldn’t say the entire full-coverage, full-glam of 2016 has made a total comeback, but artists and creators are enjoying rediscovering certain application techniques from that period and falling back in love with the colourful creativity of the time.”

She points to the recent viral success of Dame Pat McGrath’s wild creations at the Maison Margiela spring haute couture show on 25 January, featuring models with unbelievably doll-like skin, as an example.

Olufemi adds: “The legend herself has since revealed how she achieved the look, but before then, all over the world artists and make-up lovers were testing and trying out their own methods and techniques to achieve that insanely dewy skin. It was a real unifying moment in make-up history for online creators, artists and everyday make-up lovers alike.”

Anna Waletzko, cultural analyst at consumer insights agency Canvas8, explains: “As trends like the clean girl aesthetic became more popular, there was a sense of homogeneity as everyone started to look eerily similar. And that’s because when you look at minimalism and the ‘clean girl’ aesthetic, there’s a clear wrong way to do it: your hair isn’t slicked back enough, your nail polish is chipped.

“As the lid lifts on that pressure cooker of perfectionism, people are realising that embracing imperfections fosters a sense of playfulness. It adds character to the look. Make-up artists like Katie Jane Hughes do a great job of bringing that sense of reality back to the process. When Katie shares a tutorial for a glossy lid and she tells you that it’s going to crease, there’s no way around it, that’s just how it is. Perfection is out, realism is in.”

Barber agrees that the pressure of perfection is giving way to this new rebellious mood so many of us are in.

“I think that this movement is a knee-jerk reaction to the last 10 years of being bombarded with beauty ideals,” Barber says, “from the Kardashian and Love Island aesthetic to the wave of no-make-up-make-up which only really worked if you were already physically perfect. The ‘clean girl’ aesthetic is very misleading. It tends to be associated with celebrities claiming to be make-up-free, but in reality, it’s a result of multiple facials and the meticulous skills of a personal make-up artist. The clean girl needs an entire team. Perhaps it’s the ‘dirty girl’ who holds more allure? She’s much more free and far less scrutinised.”

This isn’t to say that minimalism is going to vanish completely in the beauty world.

Olufemi says: “I think many people still really appreciate the super minimalistic style in their everyday lives, but I think we’re going to see fewer iterations of what is, let’s be honest, the same look. ‘Tomato make-up’, ‘strawberry make-up’ and ‘I’m cold make-up’… I mean, come on… really?

“Instead of what’s effectively clean girl make-up with a ‘twist’ again and again, I believe we’ll see trends that are more detailed and more distinct. For example, everyone recreating that Pat McGrath Maison Margiela make-up was a unique trend. There’s no way it could be mistaken for something else.”

There’s also the fact that maximalism and having a play around with your aesthetic is just so much fun.

Waletzko says: “Maximalism doesn’t feel as constricting because there’s a bigger margin for error, which leaves more room to play. And the more you play, the easier it is to discover what you truly like and what styles and looks really feel like you. Overall, the process begins to feel more uniquely yours and heightens that sense of individualism.”

Barber says: “I think people are tired of beauty being so safe. They’re ready to dress up again and play out different characters with different statements. They’re familiar with the routine that makes them look polished and effortless but are now ready to enjoy the transformation of a full face and enjoy the emotions that go with that. Tastes have changed considerably since the last decade, when you had to follow a strict set of rules to achieve a face that you didn’t necessarily want. Now it’s about customising your look to suit yourself rather than for the approval of others.”

Images: Getty