Eyebrows, like other facets of our beauty regimens, are subject to the influence of passing trends. Most recently, the full brows made famous by celebrities like Brooke Shields in the 80s and emulated by the likes of Cara Delevingne and Zendaya, have dominated feeds and ‘For You’ pages the world around. Then, they morphed into the brushed-up, fluffy aesthetic made possible by hardworking eyebrow gels, for which there is a correct technique to getting just right. 

In 2023 though, a new eyebrow energy is coming – one that feels decidedly more 00s. Meet simulation brows.

Coined by Laura Kay, a permanent make-up artist and founder of Laura Kay London, simulation brows are a continuation of the nostalgic wave enveloping pop culture – the resurgence of 90s and 00s tropes reminiscent of tech-inspired sleekness and sophistication. Thinner, finer and, if you like, permanent, these brows are a clear change of gear.

“Bushy, ombre and brushed-up brows have monopolised recently thanks to the likes of Cara Delevingne and Dua Lipa, both of whom have largely enhanced their brows, opting for a bold, defined look that focuses on accentuating each hair stroke. Brows are no longer a facial feature to camouflage or be ashamed of.”

“This trend, of embracing the individuality of one’s own natural brows has given people the confidence to try new trends and looks and, while prominent brows will continue to be popular, other trends are coming through. In 2023 we will see a big shift towards super simulation brows – ultra-fine brows that clone people’s natural shape using the finest hair stroke brow artistry available.”

Kay describes the trend as streamlined and delicate, the antithesis of the fullness and fluffiness of 2021 and 2022.

Professionals like Kay are able to create these thinner, more delicate brows permanently, using nanoblading technology that enables artists to emulate the super-fine hairs. Like microblading and microshading, nanoblading deposits pigment into the skin and can look hyper-realistic. “If you want super simulation brows, you must go to a highly trained professional artist who is an expert at nanoblading,” says Kay. “The slimmest nano-blade will be used with precision to achieve the desired fine hair stroke technique and look.”

That being said, if you wish to play with the trend, permanent make-up might not be the right option, in which case TikTok comes to the rescue. With a simple technique of brushing brows up and down, user @cutcreaser shows how to use a brow gel to your advantage. Just remember to clean your brows first with a cotton bud or small towel before applying gel – any residue will cling to make-up or leftover skincare and not give you the clean, precise look you’re after.

Main image: Getty