Until recently, the pursuit of glowing skin has defined the beauty zeitgeist. Impossibly radiant reflections have filled our feeds, make-up routines have centred on achieving a lit-from-within-glow and the lexicon has been dominated by ‘glass skin’, ‘mirror’ trends and ‘glazed’ everything.

But lately, there has been a shift in tone – a move away from an overly dewy aesthetic and towards a renewed interest in the realm of matte. Only this time around it’s been reimagined with fresh trends and inspiration, new-gen textures and a ton of science. Here, we explore why we’re suddenly embracing a new era of matte make-up, plus the latest formulas to achieve a soft focus finish.

If there are certain 90s beauty trends you’d rather not relive, you might think that matte make-up, with its dimensionless, overly dry and dull reputation, would be one of them. For 2024, however, you’ll notice a major difference. “The current iteration of matte make-up is a world away from the flat full-face 80s and 90s glam that is often associated with matte textures,” says Megan Bang, WGSN’s beauty trend expert. “Dewy finishes have now evolved into a soft-matte make-up look that still emphasises glow and skin prep but brings it into a more subtle, refined space.”

And there’s more versatility too, says make-up artist Ruby Hammer. “It’s not super matte in all areas of the face like it was in the 90s. Nor is it super heavy and powdery; it’s natural, applied strategically and takes advantage of the new technology in products and skincare,” she notes. As for the terminology, ‘pore-blurring’ and ‘shine-free’ have been usurped by a softer language. “Terms like petal-soft, soft-focus, natural matte, glowy matte, subtle glow, luminous matte and, of course, cloud skin are front and centre and embody the dynamic mix of textures that this finish consists of,” says Bang. 

No surprise, then, that TikTok has had a helping hand in this major rebrand. The ‘soft matte make-up look’ now has over 60 million views, with countless videos illustrating the joy of playing with different textures as opposed to an all-out glow. Meanwhile, the viral ‘cloud skin’ trend, which was first coined by Mac’s global senior make-up artist Dominic Skinner, lends itself to anyone wanting to hit the sweet spot between matte and dewy.

Aside from social media, there’s a reason why matte make-up is trending again. Could it be a case of make-up ennui and a collective cry for something a little less… glowy? Indeed, as Hammer points out, everyone is ready for a change when it comes to their make-up routines.

“Beauty trends are cyclical,” she says. “We’ve had so much dewy, glowing skin that matte and semi-matte make-up look and feel new to us again.” Better yet, the latest trends allow you to choose your own aesthetic, she adds. “You can choose to have a matte T-zone while allowing a natural finish to the rest of your face or simply pick a matte feature like eyes or lips.”

That it’s neither one extreme of an overly matte finish nor the unrealistic glow typecast as a picture of skin health is another major selling point. Because – crucially, perhaps – there’s a move away from a pernicious quest for ‘perfect’ skin. Though divisive trends like the clean girl aesthetic have promised a scaled-down make-up bag and natural look, the reality is that they often require more masquerading.

Worse yet is that some of these trends that may have once centred on natural effulgence have now veered into a poreless, cookie-cutter aesthetic. “This new shift is a more inclusive evolution from the full-on ‘clean girl’ aesthetic,” agrees Bang. Plus, it doesn’t require as many steps or rely on your skin being in great condition from the offset, adds Hammer. What’s more, it’s adding renewed interest in trying new formulas and textures, and experimenting again after a period when creativity has been somewhat lacking in the beauty department. 

As a result, make-up sales are on the rise again. Statista reports that it’s the first time since pre-pandemic times that make-up is now laying claim to a chunk of the skincare category’s long-reigning success. As for newer launches filling the shelves, they have more innovation behind them than ever before. “Innovations in matte formulas have incorporated more skincare ingredients into products, offering a more nourished look,” says Bang. Gone are the days of a matte lipstick pruning before lunch or a base appearing cakey post-commute; foundations are now soft-focused, lip cremes and matte blushes add intense moisture and pops of colour, and eyeshadows allow for self-expression and experimentation.

Even Glossier, a name for whom the mention of matte would have once been shudder-inducing, is embracing the new-gen texture. Its latest lip formula, G Suit Soft Touch Lip Creme, £22, is the first opaque finish for the brand in a highly wearable, buttery-soft formula. Meanwhile, Charlotte Tilbury, another brand famous for its glossy skin aesthetic, has also noticed a gap in the market. The beauty giant’s viral and radiance-enhancing Beauty Light Wands, £30 each, recently cropped up in an ultra-matte formula. The Pillow Talk Matte Beauty Blush Wands, £30 each, harness lumi-blur technology, which captures and reflects the light thanks to a blend of glow gels, silica and a matte pearl filler to create a soft-focus effect. Similarly, its Airbrush Flawless Lip Blur, £22.95, uses a powder blur technology as well as hyaluronic acid – the humectant that can hold up to one thousand times its weight in water – making it, in the words of Charlotte Tilbury herself, a formula like no other: “A matte powder pout without drying, creasing or feathering.”

Artificial intelligence is also innovating the matte beauty space. Prada Beauty, a collection that launched to great fanfare in the summer, launched a soft-matte foundation (more on that later) using AI tech and an algorithm that generated 3,000 different skin tones to help improve colour matching. As for the tech inside the bottle, there’s IRL-micro-filter technology, which micro-crystalises onto skin to diffuse light and create a softer, smoother finish. And that’s only the beginning. From liquid lips to powder shadows, there’s a whole host of forward-thinking, tech-led formulas ready and waiting to change your mind about matte make-up. 

Images: Getty; courtesy of brands