There’s no doubt about the efficacy of hyaluronic acid. Hailed as a skincare hero by experts and dermatologists alike, it’s a humectant (meaning it helps reduce the loss of moisture) that can hold up to 1,000 times its own weight in water.

A naturally-occurring substance, hyaluronic acid works to help retain the much-needed moisture that both skin and joints need. But as we get older, our levels tend to deplete – leading to dullness and loss of elasticity, along with fine lines and wrinkles.

Found in a whole host of products, its primary function is restoring and retaining moisture and is suitable for all skin types, including those with sensitive, acne-prone skin.

But despite being a miracle worker, it’s important to note that hyaluronic acid could end up drying out your skin if you’re not careful. 

Here’s the lowdown on what hyaluronic acid is and the most effective ways to use it…

As Dr Sam Bunting, founder of skincare brand Dr Sam’s, explains: “It’s a water-holding gel with the ability to hold 1,000 times its own weight in moisture. When it’s applied topically, skin acts as a highly effective barrier and those hyaluronic acid molecules are too big to squeeze through the dermis (the layer of skin beneath the epidermis), which is where it needs to be to help plump lines and wrinkles.”

So instead, the hyaluronic acid sits on the skin’s surface and acts as a moisturiser through its humectant properties. “That means it draws water into skin to keep it hydrated, supple and makes sure it keeps functioning effectively as a barrier,” says Dr Bunting.

If you’re applying hyaluronic acid to a very dry face, it can actually end up drawing moisture from the deeper levels of your skin. This in turn will do more harm than good and leave your complexion feeling tight and uncomfortable.

It’s a problem that usually occurs when humidity levels are extremely low – meaning there’s a lack of moisture in the air. 

To counteract that issue, Sonia Deasy, founder of skincare brand Pestle & Mortar, recommends layering hyaluronic acid serum underneath a moisturiser. “It helps seal it into your skin and provides a barrier against moisture loss,” she explains.

Deasy also advises applying serum to damp – not completely dry – skin for better results. 

Main image: Getty